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Everything posted by DMW

  1. Thanks for responding Don. I’m using all four and a drill press. A carbide bit was my next choice. This is some hard steel and I didn’t want to crank too hard with my press and snap the bit. These are brand new bits.
  2. Those are awesome knives Kevin. For a newb like me posts like this are very inspirational. I get just as excited as you making the knives watching them finish their transition from a hunk of metal to a beautiful work of art, and those are gorgeous.
  3. Hey guys, I forged a blade out of a 3” x 1/2” piece of coil spring. It hasn’t been heat treated yet and the problem I’m having is that I can’t get the pin holes for the handle drilled. I’ve tried iron oxide, titanium and cobalt drill bits with no luck. I got one hole drilled half way with the titanium bit then it stopped. I tried the second hole with the cobalt bit and it just made a small dimple. I’m at a loss on how to get it done. I’m thinking about trying to heat the blade then allowing it to cool overnight in the wood ashes I have in my annealing bucket. Do you guys have any other suggestions? Thank you guys for any help.
  4. DMW

    What is this?

    Lol...I haven’t picked it up yet. She’s about 700 miles away, I’m heading out for the holiday and picking it up
  5. DMW

    What is this?

    Alan, would it make a good anvil? I like the fact that all the mass is under the face. The face appears to be flat.
  6. DMW

    What is this?

    Here’s a couple of pics of bottom and side of the anvil. I know it’s at least 40 years old. It was in my sisters house when she moved in.
  7. Hey guys my sister is giving me something that resembles an anvil. Do any of you guys know anything about it. To me it’s very unusual looking. I see it’s got a hardy and pritchel holes. She says it weighs about 50 pounds.
  8. DMW

    First 2 attempts

    It will be a full tang. Got some grinding to do then I’ll drill the holes for handle before going in for the heat treat.
  9. DMW

    First 2 attempts

    Thanks you guys. I’ll take all the advice I can get...lol. I’m just in awe of the knowledge you guys possess. I enjoy this craft and everything involved with it, I just wish I started 20 years ago. I just started as a form of therapy and never realized how addictive it is.
  10. DMW

    First 2 attempts

    I heat treated the letter opener. I got a little more grinding to do on the knife
  11. Well here’s my first 2 attempts at the forge. I made a letter opener out of an old chisel and a knife out of a piece of an old leaf spring. Welcome advice or constructive criticism
  12. Thanks Geoff, I’m still new to this and never looked at it that way
  13. Is it possible to use metal used in pry bars? I have a couple of old pry bars I got at a yard sale. I’m not sure if they would have to be annealed before heating and hammering. I’ve been using scrap metal I have around the house to work on my hammering and shaping before investing and possibly ruining good metal
  14. Thanks Alan . I have to be honest, I’m so impressed and in awe of your knowledge of metal and anything about knife making. I try to do a little research on my own before posting my questions
  15. I have a good size 1/4” thick steel I-beam. I read that they use carbon steel in their construction and I was wondering if it were true. If it is true would this make good knife making steel?
  16. Thanks so much Alan. I couldn’t find any other markings on the anvil except that number 3 under the horn. I tapped around the top of the anvil and I didn’t hear any vibrations, it sounded pretty solid. I hammered some hot steel a little bit ago and it was so nice compared to my 120 pound Enderes.
  17. Hi Alan, i got some better pictures. I ended up getting the anvil for $100. I noticed there was a little area with a crack or delamination. I followed you alls instructions on how to test an anvil. I bounced a 1/2” ball bearing off the surface. I got a consistent 10” rebound everywhere accept over the corner where the the delam was. There I got 5” rebound, but it was only like a 1” area. The only other marking I found was a number 3 under the horn. I’m hoping it was a $100 well spent...lol
  18. Thanks Michael. Would it be ok to use a 120 grit flap disk on the face?
  19. Maybe these are better?
  20. Thanks Alan. I’m sorry that’s the only pic she had online. She’s asking $200 for it. She says it’s about 120 pounds
  21. Hey guys I’m looking at an anvil but the owner doesn’t know anything about it. Just wondering if someone can help identify the anvil. Thanks all.
  22. Wayne,

    could you suggest a good enclosure for my L510?

    thank you 


    1. Wayne Coe

      Wayne Coe

      I don't know what a L510 is.

    2. DMW


      I’m sorry Wayne, it’s a Teco VFD

    3. Wayne Coe

      Wayne Coe

      Just about any box bigger than the VFD will do.  It should be large enough to allow air circulation and to have filters at the inlet and outlets.  A clear front might be nice.

      Let me know if I can help you again.


  23. I have a 90 degree register duct mounted to the bench below my grinder connected to a vacuum hose. I’m hoping that will catch a lot of the dust coming off the grinder.
  24. Thank you all for your great help. Wayne, I do have the vfd in another room. I was able to mount it through the wall behind my grinder. Fortunately it is still very easy to get to, about a 5 foot walk through a doorway. The door closes isolating the vfd from dust. I found a helpful video on YouTube about L510 programming. He programmed it for a lathe but some of the settings he changed really smoothed out my motor and quieted the whine. I posted it below if anyone is interested.
  25. Hi guys, i just got a 2x72 grinder, 2hp 3 phase motor and Teco L510 vfd. I was just looking for a little help with programming the vfd to work with the motor. I’m just not sure or familiar with a vfd. I got the L510 vfd that uses 220 single phase input and 220 v 3 phase output. I’ve got everything wired and I get power to the motor but I know there are settings that need changed but unsure which ones. Thanks.
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