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Jon Bishop

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and Blacksmithing. And lots of other things.

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  1. The title pretty much says it. But I’m wanting to do a bit of inlay work on a non blade related project and that got me thinking of inlay work on knife handles. I think silver is pretty much the standard but can pure nickel work? This question is about inlay in wood of course. Thanks, Jon
  2. Hey, Brian. My platen is a little bit off. I’ll tinker with it . Quality belts seem to help though. Jon
  3. Bill, I would love to see a review on that.
  4. Just got myself a 2”x72” grinder. First time using one with a platen like this. The only other 2x72 experience I have was with a homemade job with just a drive wheel and 10” contact wheel. Not mine. I must say this grinder has already proved to be worth it. I ground this blade today starting out as forged. It’s one I’ve had laying around awhile. Still need to file to crisp up the plunge lines. But this only took about 15 minutes of grinding. Still some work to do though. Not many issues with setting this thing up. Need to get it properly bolted down. The tracking is a bit touchy but this is mi
  5. Springfield leather has them in 100 pack bags. But I would use a sponge or paper towel or old tshirt instead. Sponge working best for me. But before you put on the dye apply two coats of neatsfoot oil before hand. Let it dry at least overnight, between coats. Dampen your sponge then wring it out some, dip in dye lightly and start sort of buffing it in. If you have tooling in your work the dye will pretty much kill it. You won’t get much contrast. To get good contrast is, for me, a mixture of things. Mixing various products to achieve the color and contrast I’m going for. Fiebeings dye on raw l
  6. I used to use the wax thread for hand sewing and it would stay white if just using neatsfoot oil as a finish. I’ve since switched to tex 270 bonded nylon thread for hand sewing. It will pretty much turn the color of your dye or stain. It still stays white if just using neatsfoot oil. The waxed thread will get splotchy on you if using dyes or stains. If I dye or stain a project nowadays, I’ll do that before stitching if I want the white thread contrast. I do more machine sewing now and use 207 size thread. I’ve hand sewn with it also but I like the 270 better for hand sewing. Recent hand sewn p
  7. Hey, Chris I just replied to your other thread. A #3 beveler will be ok for 6oz. A #2 would probably look good also. You’ll end up buying every size beveler. I did anyway. On the nine prong punch, that will be a bear to pull back out of two pieces of 6oz leather. I think those 9 prongs are more for wallet and bag makers. A 4 prong is mighty tough to pull back out sometimes. I’ve even broken the glue bond pulling one back out. When I hand sew now, I use just a 2 prong on most projects. I’m fairly new to leather work myself. But I am enjoying it. Trial and error with me. Hope this i
  8. Burnishing gum does work well. On thicker edges it’s great. On thinner edges you have to be extra careful not to get it on the grain. One thing I have found is that bag-kote works really well on thinner edges. I put bag-kote on most of my projects. Put the bag-kote on last and before it dries completely, burnish your edge. Neatsfoot oil is something else you need if you haven’t gotten it already. Good luck! Leather work can be just as addictive as knife making. Jon
  9. Ok. So maybe something like this? A little more curve and depth to the bird’s head? Jon
  10. Ok. So here’s what I came up with. It might require re-heat treating but I think it looks ok. Sorry about the photo. Trying to keep my shadow out. Feel free to picture edit. I’m open to any suggestions. Jon
  11. Thanks, Joshua. I thought the same thing myself about the ricasso. But the small choil? Do you really think it would look right? I’ll draw this out again on paper. I’ll post it up when I do. Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it. Jon
  12. Thank you both for the ideas. I drew a handle shape on an outline of the knife. I will need to slim the tang for sure. Let me know what you think. This could change of course. The handle could probably be 1/2” an inch longer. The drawing measures 4-1/8” long. Thanks, Jon
  13. Hey, Dragoncutlery. I like the the handle and ricasso design. When you say reshape the guard as a cap and add another behind it, then another under it? I’m not quite sure I’m following you. Do you have a picture of an example? What you did with the photo is exactly what I was wanting to see. Very good feedback. Thanks, Jon
  14. Mr. States, thank you for the thoughtful insightful reply. First off, the guard is not soldered on. It’s press fit and pretty tight. My original plan was to finish it on the knife. I did have a handle halfway fit before I decided I didn’t like the way the guard left the small gap at the ricasso. Yes, I get what your saying about the handle being equal distance top to bottom. That’s exactly why I decided to ask for guidance. With the unfinished handle on it just looked wrong and that’s the reason. I’m thinking after reading your reply and your other thread, that I’ll draw some different handle
  15. Hello all, This is my first pattern welded knife and my first brass guard/bolster. I’m having a hard time getting the lines right. I posted this blade awhile back. It’s 288 layers of 15n20 and 1075. Blade about 4 inches. The pictures show iphone photoshop and as is. The handle will be longer for sure. If you could please give me any input or handle shape ideas I would appreciate it. Also, how can I polish the brass without messing with the pattern. You can see from the pictures that I have already tried. Thanks, Jon
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