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Jon Bishop

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and Blacksmithing. And lots of other things.

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  1. Hey, Dragoncutlery. I like the the handle and ricasso design. When you say reshape the guard as a cap and add another behind it, then another under it? I’m not quite sure I’m following you. Do you have a picture of an example? What you did with the photo is exactly what I was wanting to see. Very good feedback. Thanks, Jon
  2. Mr. States, thank you for the thoughtful insightful reply. First off, the guard is not soldered on. It’s press fit and pretty tight. My original plan was to finish it on the knife. I did have a handle halfway fit before I decided I didn’t like the way the guard left the small gap at the ricasso. Yes, I get what your saying about the handle being equal distance top to bottom. That’s exactly why I decided to ask for guidance. With the unfinished handle on it just looked wrong and that’s the reason. I’m thinking after reading your reply and your other thread, that I’ll draw some different handle mock-ups. See what looks better to my eye. I might have to remake the guard as much as I would like to avoid it. I will for sure re-sand and re-etch the blade. I’ll try to follow your instructions as best I can the rest of the way. This is my first try at putting a handle on a hidden tang also my first guard. (I made the ricasso too small for this short of a blade didn’t I?) Thank you very much, Jon
  3. Hello all, This is my first pattern welded knife and my first brass guard/bolster. I’m having a hard time getting the lines right. I posted this blade awhile back. It’s 288 layers of 15n20 and 1075. Blade about 4 inches. The pictures show iphone photoshop and as is. The handle will be longer for sure. If you could please give me any input or handle shape ideas I would appreciate it. Also, how can I polish the brass without messing with the pattern. You can see from the pictures that I have already tried. Thanks, Jon
  4. I have found this style nozzle to work pretty well for me. Scepter is the name brand. Jon
  5. Hi, Antony. Yes I would still use files. My set up might not be greatest for this belt grinder. It’s just a cheap lowes bench grinder. The thing is, at slow speed with a 36 grit belt, on soft steel that will drill, it would take awhile to do stock removal on something like 3/16”x 1-1/4” steel. Most likely two to three belts. High speed will take more metal off. But I can’t handle it with set up. Thinner narrower stock it could do well. As I said I forge and set the bevels that way. Say a 4” blade 3/4” tall by 1/8” thick pre beveled during forging, I’m not really gaining anything with this grinder the way it runs. I can finish file a blade that size with good files in a reasonable amount of time. Without a lot of risk ruining the bevel. I will use it on the tang of hidden and thru tangs and also contour work on full tangs. It has its uses for sure. I like Pferd files with a safe edge. If you have more questions let me know. I’ll help the best I can. Jon
  6. I will add on the tracking. It will track true but getting it there is a pain. I’ve destroyed new belts trying to get it to track. In the picture, on the left of the belt you can see a little paddle. This is the tracking adjustment. It is very sensitive. One way or the other too far and it will shred a belt fast. I’ve taken to using a wrench to tap on it up or down to get it to track at the slowest speed. If I want to increase speed for grinding steel I increase slowly and tap in the direction it needs to go. The thing is you will tap too hard because you can’t see anything changing. (The tracking varies by speed by the way.) Then the paddle loses its tension and goes loose. Belt shredded. My setup is good at lowest speed to about 1/3 up. Anything faster and it’s horrible. You can still remove metal with it. But I can’t “hog” off steel with it. At higher grits on slow speed it will considerably cut down on hand sanding. I forge by the way. If I were doing stock removal an angle grinder and good files would work better. Hope this helps. Jon
  7. I own one of these and tried it for knife making. It hasn’t worked out for me. I’ve had it for over two years now. I bought better files. Not to say I don’t use it. But files do most of my work. You can get belts from Jantz or amazon. Not as many grits available for it like a 2x72. The drawback to this thing, for me, is bad tracking and horrible vibration at high speeds. Makes it impossible for me to grind good bevels. There are some things I know I could do to make it better but I don’t want to put in the time and effort. I use it a lot on handles and for leatherwork. Steel, not so much. Attached a pic. It doesn’t look like this now.
  8. Those are nice. And a customer probably wouldn’t see the issues Garry pointed out. I have found as a novice knife maker and leather worker customers don’t see the flaws. I will always point them out to them, but they don’t seem to care. Get a stitching groover. I like the one with the bar that does the spacing. Then buy another one to do your accent lines? I’m not sure on the terminology. Take it easy laying those lines out. It helps if you have your leather glued together and even on the edges. I use a belt sander to do this. A sharp knife and sandpaper will do the same. Go slow and keep pressure on the outside. It’s a rather difficult skill to master. Don’t be discouraged, those are nice sheaths! All the best, Jon
  9. I don’t know either. The pictures show the results though. Much bolder after heat treatment. Jon
  10. An update. I heat treated today and it went well. As far as I could tell anyway. The etch after heat treating is a lot bolder. This is only sanded to 400 grit. I’m not entirely happy with this but it proved my forge can do it. To other beginners: This was done by hand. I went through 40lbs of propane to make this. My forge will weld but it’s not too efficient. Any feedback or questions welcome. Thanks, Jon
  11. This is what I came up with. I didn’t have enough to forge the tip in. I’m happy with the results though. I felt that I was getting too thin on the tip. So I stopped forging. I’m going to put this in the coffee etch. The pattern might jump out more. Please leave some feedback. Pictures included. This was etched with ferric. Thanks, Jon
  12. I’ve got to 288 layers. Would it be better to forge the tip in or just profile? This is as far as I am taking it. I laddered it and drew it out. My arm can’t take anymore. Any input would be helpful. Thanks, Jon
  13. Hello all. I made up two billets of the 1075 15n20 combo and they seemed to have welded great. I cut and stacked the nine layer billet. It started out 3” long by 1” x 1-1/8”. I drew it out to about 6-1/2” by 1-1/2” by 5/16”. Roughly. I cut it down the middle with a cut off disc on an angle grinder. Then cut it half. I noticed there wasn’t any visible lines in the middle. So that makes me think it’s a good weld. The outside of the billet does show lines. The picture is of the four stacked. Is this normal? The other billet I made was 5 layers. I hot cut and folded. First pic is the 5 layer after folding. Thanks, Jon
  14. Good for you! I plan on doing some pattern welding/damascus for the first time next week. Just have to get the rest of the supplies. I hope my attempt goes as good as yours did. Nice little knife too. Jon
  15. Thanks for the replies. This will be my first try at pattern welding/damascus. I bought coffee grounds today. I’m glad to hear that these metals will weld. I’ve been meaning to buy some more cold blue. Thanks for reminding me! My only other welding has been 1018 together on decorative things. From my reading and what I’ve been told, you don’t have to get these carbon steels as hot to weld. One other question. Would ferric be suitable as an etchant, or something else? I haven’t any on hand experience and would like to know before I buy. Thanks, Jon
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