Jump to content

Jon Bishop

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    SW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and Blacksmithing. And lots of other things.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I used a dauber on the the two projects I used the dye on. A guitar strap and a gun holster. Both being made for me. When you submerge the leather do you mean before stitching? The holster I made, I applied the dye after all tooling and stitching were done. Thanks, Jon
  2. Thank you for the replies. I’ll do a test piece with the method you described. Up until recently I have been putting multiple coats of neatsfoot oil on everything to achieve color. The eco-flo from tandy looks like great stuff. I watched their you tube video and will be ordering some in the near future. Thanks again! Jon
  3. I don’t know about the hardness rating but the guy from Atlas knows his business. If you can’t source something from a scrapyard or buy a new or used anvil it seems a viable option to me. I’m pretty sure it is made overseas but Charles seems like a real standup guy. Don’t want to step on anyones toes or advertise for Atlas, it’s just my two cents. Jon
  4. That looks like switchyard track to me. Main line track would be better but still not as good as what everyone else has told you. That 4x4 from old world anvils was the route I was going to go until I stumbled across a Peter Wright. That AtlasKnife anvil is priced pretty well though. Jon
  5. Hello all. I’ve just started venturing into leather dye for my leather projects. How can you all get consistent results with your dye? The two projects I’ve done this on have given me splotchy results. I have four different shades from light brown, medium, dark and mahogany. They all look the same shade. The attached picture shows them from left to right. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Jon
  6. To anyone interested or unaware, Bill Moran’s bladesmith school has moved from Old Washington State Park, AR to Texarkana, TX community college campus. This school has been put on by TC college since it first began or almost first began. This will begin July 1st. I am in no way affiliated with TC or the bladesmith school. I just thought I’d pass on the information. Jon
  7. This is a phone pic of leaf spring at my working temp. The next one is where I stop pounding on it. I’ll do some tapping at this temp but not pounding. I am no expert by anymeans. This is knowledge given me and a little of my own learning experiences. The steel looks hotter in the second pic but with the naked eye it isn’t glowing. 2lb hammer by the way. Jon edit: pics are reversed
  8. Thanks for all the advice. I have some 1-1/4” plate that I think would be good. I’m thinking two piece construction with one piece with intregal hardy and another piece of 1-1/4” welded to it . I made a rough sketch. Please let me know what you think. Jon
  9. I’m thinking of putting this in the old automatic hacksaw, then attaching some 1”x1” stock to it. It’s a side roller bearing from a railcar.
  10. I have several older files that have seen better days. Most are Nicholson USA. Some are Gorbet USA. Then some oddballs. Has anyone used Boggs to sharpen files lately? I’m wondering if it’s cost effective. Included are a couple pictures of condition and brand. Thanks for any help. The second file has both edges safe ground. It looks factory.
  11. Here is a pic of mine. My finger is on the tracking lever. You can see the damage to the belt. I hope this helps.
  12. I own the 2x36 multi tool attachment. And I'll say buy a good grinder or buy good files. The tracking lever on mine went bad in less than a year. I have a variable speed bench grinder and it will only stay straight on the lower end of the dial. It's all over the place when I turn it up faster. Destroyed a brand new belt last time I used it. The hardware on it is very cheap. I twistwed a bolt off with a 6" end wrench. It also vibrates alot. It will take metal off. But if your're looking at doing plunge lines or precision bevels it wasn't much help for me. My two cents. Some people my have good luck from these. I bought better files.
  13. Yes, I have read that same article. I was hoping a localized heat treat would work on a smaller spot. I really don't want to weld on it. Clifford, that is a great idea. Don't know why I didn't think of it. I think I'll try that. Thanks for the replys.
  14. I forgot to add that this is my first post. I am a beginner/amature. I have been forging for about 9 years. I am a member of a local blacksmiths guild. I am a welder by trade and I think I'll be good with a localized heat treat. 300 degrees. But I have been lurking this site for about 9 years. So I was hoping someone with more heat treating exprience could chime in. Thanks. Also, why does my post have a star instead of a black dot?
  • Create New...