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Jon Bishop

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  • Location
    SW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and Blacksmithing. And lots of other things.

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  1. To anyone interested or unaware, Bill Moran’s bladesmith school has moved from Old Washington State Park, AR to Texarkana, TX community college campus. This school has been put on by TC college since it first began or almost first began. This will begin July 1st. I am in no way affiliated with TC or the bladesmith school. I just thought I’d pass on the information. Jon
  2. This is a phone pic of leaf spring at my working temp. The next one is where I stop pounding on it. I’ll do some tapping at this temp but not pounding. I am no expert by anymeans. This is knowledge given me and a little of my own learning experiences. The steel looks hotter in the second pic but with the naked eye it isn’t glowing. 2lb hammer by the way. Jon edit: pics are reversed
  3. Thanks for all the advice. I have some 1-1/4” plate that I think would be good. I’m thinking two piece construction with one piece with intregal hardy and another piece of 1-1/4” welded to it . I made a rough sketch. Please let me know what you think. Jon
  4. I’m thinking of putting this in the old automatic hacksaw, then attaching some 1”x1” stock to it. It’s a side roller bearing from a railcar.
  5. I have several older files that have seen better days. Most are Nicholson USA. Some are Gorbet USA. Then some oddballs. Has anyone used Boggs to sharpen files lately? I’m wondering if it’s cost effective. Included are a couple pictures of condition and brand. Thanks for any help. The second file has both edges safe ground. It looks factory.
  6. Here is a pic of mine. My finger is on the tracking lever. You can see the damage to the belt. I hope this helps.
  7. I own the 2x36 multi tool attachment. And I'll say buy a good grinder or buy good files. The tracking lever on mine went bad in less than a year. I have a variable speed bench grinder and it will only stay straight on the lower end of the dial. It's all over the place when I turn it up faster. Destroyed a brand new belt last time I used it. The hardware on it is very cheap. I twistwed a bolt off with a 6" end wrench. It also vibrates alot. It will take metal off. But if your're looking at doing plunge lines or precision bevels it wasn't much help for me. My two cents. Some people my have good luck from these. I bought better files.
  8. Yes, I have read that same article. I was hoping a localized heat treat would work on a smaller spot. I really don't want to weld on it. Clifford, that is a great idea. Don't know why I didn't think of it. I think I'll try that. Thanks for the replys.
  9. I forgot to add that this is my first post. I am a beginner/amature. I have been forging for about 9 years. I am a member of a local blacksmiths guild. I am a welder by trade and I think I'll be good with a localized heat treat. 300 degrees. But I have been lurking this site for about 9 years. So I was hoping someone with more heat treating exprience could chime in. Thanks. Also, why does my post have a star instead of a black dot?
  10. Would it ruin an anvil face if you just dressed up a 2” section of the edge by welding? The pictures highlight the area I want to fix. I plan on using 8018 c3 rod to build up. The anvil is a 196# Peter Wright. I’ve been using for two years and I really want to put a bit of good edge on it. Thanks for any input.
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