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Jon Bishop

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and Blacksmithing. And lots of other things.

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  1. I don’t know either. The pictures show the results though. Much bolder after heat treatment. Jon
  2. An update. I heat treated today and it went well. As far as I could tell anyway. The etch after heat treating is a lot bolder. This is only sanded to 400 grit. I’m not entirely happy with this but it proved my forge can do it. To other beginners: This was done by hand. I went through 40lbs of propane to make this. My forge will weld but it’s not too efficient. Any feedback or questions welcome. Thanks, Jon
  3. This is what I came up with. I didn’t have enough to forge the tip in. I’m happy with the results though. I felt that I was getting too thin on the tip. So I stopped forging. I’m going to put this in the coffee etch. The pattern might jump out more. Please leave some feedback. Pictures included. This was etched with ferric. Thanks, Jon
  4. I’ve got to 288 layers. Would it be better to forge the tip in or just profile? This is as far as I am taking it. I laddered it and drew it out. My arm can’t take anymore. Any input would be helpful. Thanks, Jon
  5. Hello all. I made up two billets of the 1075 15n20 combo and they seemed to have welded great. I cut and stacked the nine layer billet. It started out 3” long by 1” x 1-1/8”. I drew it out to about 6-1/2” by 1-1/2” by 5/16”. Roughly. I cut it down the middle with a cut off disc on an angle grinder. Then cut it half. I noticed there wasn’t any visible lines in the middle. So that makes me think it’s a good weld. The outside of the billet does show lines. The picture is of the four stacked. Is this normal? The other billet I made was 5 layers. I hot cut and folded. First pic is the 5 layer after folding. Thanks, Jon
  6. Good for you! I plan on doing some pattern welding/damascus for the first time next week. Just have to get the rest of the supplies. I hope my attempt goes as good as yours did. Nice little knife too. Jon
  7. Thanks for the replies. This will be my first try at pattern welding/damascus. I bought coffee grounds today. I’m glad to hear that these metals will weld. I’ve been meaning to buy some more cold blue. Thanks for reminding me! My only other welding has been 1018 together on decorative things. From my reading and what I’ve been told, you don’t have to get these carbon steels as hot to weld. One other question. Would ferric be suitable as an etchant, or something else? I haven’t any on hand experience and would like to know before I buy. Thanks, Jon
  8. Can you get good contrast with 1075 and 15n20? I have read that they are almost the same besides nickle content. Will they weld together? I am asking because I have these materials and I think I have my forge tuned to welding temps. I want to try my first pattern weld. The only other steel I have is 5160 or could be 9260. Railcar coil spring. Scrap if you want to get down to it. It makes decent hard blades. Also the 1075 and 15n20 blades I’ve seen have a very subtle pattern. Thanks, Jon
  9. Hey, JeffM and Joshua. Do you guys have a picture of the kip ? The way I’m looking at this is a lining to the entire sheath. Is it sewn in? I don’t want to shift this thread from the outstanding sheath JeffM made. Great dying job also. I’m just curious about different methods is all. Thanks, Jon
  10. I’ll expand on what Alex said. I just got more serious about leatherwork myself. A 4 prong punch and a 1 prong punch are going to do better than a stitching wheel. I would put a 2 prong punch with that though. For curves and tight spots. Also a stitch groover is a must. Makes things look better as Alan said. As far as kits go, don’t buy one of the cheap ones off amazon or ebay. I fell into that trap myself. Buy your tooling tools individually. From tandy, springfield or weaver. They might be 7 to 10 dollars apiece but they are decent quality for the most part. Barry King is top of the line stuff. About $30 per tool or more. Old stuff from ebay will probably be good stuff. This is a rabbit hole to fall into just like forging. But it’s a lot of fun. I hope this helps! Jon
  11. Could you please elaborate on this? I also have been attaching belt clips the way JeffM does. Thanks, Jon
  12. I used a dauber on the the two projects I used the dye on. A guitar strap and a gun holster. Both being made for me. When you submerge the leather do you mean before stitching? The holster I made, I applied the dye after all tooling and stitching were done. Thanks, Jon
  13. Thank you for the replies. I’ll do a test piece with the method you described. Up until recently I have been putting multiple coats of neatsfoot oil on everything to achieve color. The eco-flo from tandy looks like great stuff. I watched their you tube video and will be ordering some in the near future. Thanks again! Jon
  14. I don’t know about the hardness rating but the guy from Atlas knows his business. If you can’t source something from a scrapyard or buy a new or used anvil it seems a viable option to me. I’m pretty sure it is made overseas but Charles seems like a real standup guy. Don’t want to step on anyones toes or advertise for Atlas, it’s just my two cents. Jon
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