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Jon Bishop

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Everything posted by Jon Bishop

  1. I used to use the wax thread for hand sewing and it would stay white if just using neatsfoot oil as a finish. I’ve since switched to tex 270 bonded nylon thread for hand sewing. It will pretty much turn the color of your dye or stain. It still stays white if just using neatsfoot oil. The waxed thread will get splotchy on you if using dyes or stains. If I dye or stain a project nowadays, I’ll do that before stitching if I want the white thread contrast. I do more machine sewing now and use 207 size thread. I’ve hand sewn with it also but I like the 270 better for hand sewing. Recent hand sewn p
  2. Hey, Chris I just replied to your other thread. A #3 beveler will be ok for 6oz. A #2 would probably look good also. You’ll end up buying every size beveler. I did anyway. On the nine prong punch, that will be a bear to pull back out of two pieces of 6oz leather. I think those 9 prongs are more for wallet and bag makers. A 4 prong is mighty tough to pull back out sometimes. I’ve even broken the glue bond pulling one back out. When I hand sew now, I use just a 2 prong on most projects. I’m fairly new to leather work myself. But I am enjoying it. Trial and error with me. Hope this i
  3. Burnishing gum does work well. On thicker edges it’s great. On thinner edges you have to be extra careful not to get it on the grain. One thing I have found is that bag-kote works really well on thinner edges. I put bag-kote on most of my projects. Put the bag-kote on last and before it dries completely, burnish your edge. Neatsfoot oil is something else you need if you haven’t gotten it already. Good luck! Leather work can be just as addictive as knife making. Jon
  4. Ok. So maybe something like this? A little more curve and depth to the bird’s head? Jon
  5. Ok. So here’s what I came up with. It might require re-heat treating but I think it looks ok. Sorry about the photo. Trying to keep my shadow out. Feel free to picture edit. I’m open to any suggestions. Jon
  6. Thanks, Joshua. I thought the same thing myself about the ricasso. But the small choil? Do you really think it would look right? I’ll draw this out again on paper. I’ll post it up when I do. Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it. Jon
  7. Thank you both for the ideas. I drew a handle shape on an outline of the knife. I will need to slim the tang for sure. Let me know what you think. This could change of course. The handle could probably be 1/2” an inch longer. The drawing measures 4-1/8” long. Thanks, Jon
  8. Hey, Dragoncutlery. I like the the handle and ricasso design. When you say reshape the guard as a cap and add another behind it, then another under it? I’m not quite sure I’m following you. Do you have a picture of an example? What you did with the photo is exactly what I was wanting to see. Very good feedback. Thanks, Jon
  9. Mr. States, thank you for the thoughtful insightful reply. First off, the guard is not soldered on. It’s press fit and pretty tight. My original plan was to finish it on the knife. I did have a handle halfway fit before I decided I didn’t like the way the guard left the small gap at the ricasso. Yes, I get what your saying about the handle being equal distance top to bottom. That’s exactly why I decided to ask for guidance. With the unfinished handle on it just looked wrong and that’s the reason. I’m thinking after reading your reply and your other thread, that I’ll draw some different handle
  10. Hello all, This is my first pattern welded knife and my first brass guard/bolster. I’m having a hard time getting the lines right. I posted this blade awhile back. It’s 288 layers of 15n20 and 1075. Blade about 4 inches. The pictures show iphone photoshop and as is. The handle will be longer for sure. If you could please give me any input or handle shape ideas I would appreciate it. Also, how can I polish the brass without messing with the pattern. You can see from the pictures that I have already tried. Thanks, Jon
  11. I have found this style nozzle to work pretty well for me. Scepter is the name brand. Jon
  12. Hi, Antony. Yes I would still use files. My set up might not be greatest for this belt grinder. It’s just a cheap lowes bench grinder. The thing is, at slow speed with a 36 grit belt, on soft steel that will drill, it would take awhile to do stock removal on something like 3/16”x 1-1/4” steel. Most likely two to three belts. High speed will take more metal off. But I can’t handle it with set up. Thinner narrower stock it could do well. As I said I forge and set the bevels that way. Say a 4” blade 3/4” tall by 1/8” thick pre beveled during forging, I’m not really gaining anything with this gri
  13. I will add on the tracking. It will track true but getting it there is a pain. I’ve destroyed new belts trying to get it to track. In the picture, on the left of the belt you can see a little paddle. This is the tracking adjustment. It is very sensitive. One way or the other too far and it will shred a belt fast. I’ve taken to using a wrench to tap on it up or down to get it to track at the slowest speed. If I want to increase speed for grinding steel I increase slowly and tap in the direction it needs to go. The thing is you will tap too hard because you can’t see anything changing. (The tra
  14. I own one of these and tried it for knife making. It hasn’t worked out for me. I’ve had it for over two years now. I bought better files. Not to say I don’t use it. But files do most of my work. You can get belts from Jantz or amazon. Not as many grits available for it like a 2x72. The drawback to this thing, for me, is bad tracking and horrible vibration at high speeds. Makes it impossible for me to grind good bevels. There are some things I know I could do to make it better but I don’t want to put in the time and effort. I use it a lot on handles and for leatherwork. Steel, not so much. Atta
  15. Those are nice. And a customer probably wouldn’t see the issues Garry pointed out. I have found as a novice knife maker and leather worker customers don’t see the flaws. I will always point them out to them, but they don’t seem to care. Get a stitching groover. I like the one with the bar that does the spacing. Then buy another one to do your accent lines? I’m not sure on the terminology. Take it easy laying those lines out. It helps if you have your leather glued together and even on the edges. I use a belt sander to do this. A sharp knife and sandpaper will do the same. Go slow and keep pres
  16. I don’t know either. The pictures show the results though. Much bolder after heat treatment. Jon
  17. An update. I heat treated today and it went well. As far as I could tell anyway. The etch after heat treating is a lot bolder. This is only sanded to 400 grit. I’m not entirely happy with this but it proved my forge can do it. To other beginners: This was done by hand. I went through 40lbs of propane to make this. My forge will weld but it’s not too efficient. Any feedback or questions welcome. Thanks, Jon
  18. This is what I came up with. I didn’t have enough to forge the tip in. I’m happy with the results though. I felt that I was getting too thin on the tip. So I stopped forging. I’m going to put this in the coffee etch. The pattern might jump out more. Please leave some feedback. Pictures included. This was etched with ferric. Thanks, Jon
  19. I’ve got to 288 layers. Would it be better to forge the tip in or just profile? This is as far as I am taking it. I laddered it and drew it out. My arm can’t take anymore. Any input would be helpful. Thanks, Jon
  20. Hello all. I made up two billets of the 1075 15n20 combo and they seemed to have welded great. I cut and stacked the nine layer billet. It started out 3” long by 1” x 1-1/8”. I drew it out to about 6-1/2” by 1-1/2” by 5/16”. Roughly. I cut it down the middle with a cut off disc on an angle grinder. Then cut it half. I noticed there wasn’t any visible lines in the middle. So that makes me think it’s a good weld. The outside of the billet does show lines. The picture is of the four stacked. Is this normal? The other billet I made was 5 layers. I hot cut and folded. First pic is the 5 layer after
  21. Good for you! I plan on doing some pattern welding/damascus for the first time next week. Just have to get the rest of the supplies. I hope my attempt goes as good as yours did. Nice little knife too. Jon
  22. Thanks for the replies. This will be my first try at pattern welding/damascus. I bought coffee grounds today. I’m glad to hear that these metals will weld. I’ve been meaning to buy some more cold blue. Thanks for reminding me! My only other welding has been 1018 together on decorative things. From my reading and what I’ve been told, you don’t have to get these carbon steels as hot to weld. One other question. Would ferric be suitable as an etchant, or something else? I haven’t any on hand experience and would like to know before I buy. Thanks, Jon
  23. Can you get good contrast with 1075 and 15n20? I have read that they are almost the same besides nickle content. Will they weld together? I am asking because I have these materials and I think I have my forge tuned to welding temps. I want to try my first pattern weld. The only other steel I have is 5160 or could be 9260. Railcar coil spring. Scrap if you want to get down to it. It makes decent hard blades. Also the 1075 and 15n20 blades I’ve seen have a very subtle pattern. Thanks, Jon
  24. Hey, JeffM and Joshua. Do you guys have a picture of the kip ? The way I’m looking at this is a lining to the entire sheath. Is it sewn in? I don’t want to shift this thread from the outstanding sheath JeffM made. Great dying job also. I’m just curious about different methods is all. Thanks, Jon
  25. I’ll expand on what Alex said. I just got more serious about leatherwork myself. A 4 prong punch and a 1 prong punch are going to do better than a stitching wheel. I would put a 2 prong punch with that though. For curves and tight spots. Also a stitch groover is a must. Makes things look better as Alan said. As far as kits go, don’t buy one of the cheap ones off amazon or ebay. I fell into that trap myself. Buy your tooling tools individually. From tandy, springfield or weaver. They might be 7 to 10 dollars apiece but they are decent quality for the most part. Barry King is top of the line stu
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