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Jon Bishop

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Posts posted by Jon Bishop

  1. I couldn’t tell on my phone what the edge line is. I get it now. That is some very nice work. The grooves you put in front of the eye look great. Makes me want to get back on some projects. I looked up that handle finish. Did you buy the stain from RW Wilson knives?

     

    Thanks, Jon

  2. That’s very nice. Did you weld a bit in? Or is that just the grind line on the edge? Also, what did you use to finish the handle? It’s beautiful! 
     

    Thanks, Jon 

  3. As far as 100 percent tung oil goes, the only danger I’ve heard about it is that the oil soaked rags, paper towels, etc. used for applying, can possibly spontaneously combust. Tung oil looks great on walnut by the way.

     

    Jon

  4. The title pretty much says it. But I’m wanting to do a bit of inlay work on a non blade related project and that got me thinking of inlay work on knife handles. I think silver is pretty much the standard but can pure nickel work? This question is about inlay in wood of course.
     

    Thanks, Jon

  5. On 11/16/2020 at 3:24 PM, Brian Myers said:

    Touchy tracking is usually a sign that a wheel isn't rounded off properly or that the wheels aren't perfectly in line. You can use a gauge to check to see if the wheels have a proper radius. If one of them is a bit too flat, run a layer or two of electrician's tape around the middle for a quick fix till you can afford a new wheel. You can also check to see that each wheel is the same distance out from the side plate. If one is a bit off, add a washer or two till you bring it up to level with the rest.

    Hey, Brian. My platen is a little bit off. I’ll tinker with it . Quality belts seem to help though. 
     

    Jon

  6. Just got myself a 2”x72” grinder. First time using one with a platen like this. The only other 2x72 experience I have was with a homemade job with just a drive wheel and 10” contact wheel. Not mine. I must say this grinder has already proved to be worth it. I ground this blade today starting out as forged. It’s one I’ve had laying around awhile. Still need to file to crisp up the plunge lines. But this only took about 15 minutes of grinding. Still some work to do though. Not many issues with setting this thing up. Need to get it properly bolted down. The tracking is a bit touchy but this is miles away from the 2”x36” bench grinder attachment I’ve had for some years. Could never have done this on that one!

     

    Jon

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  7. Springfield leather has them in 100 pack bags. But I would use a sponge or paper towel or old tshirt instead. Sponge working best for me. But before you put on the dye apply two coats of neatsfoot oil before hand. Let it dry at least overnight, between coats. Dampen your sponge then wring it out some, dip in dye lightly and start sort of buffing it in. If you have tooling in your work the dye will pretty much kill it. You won’t get much contrast. To get good contrast is, for me, a mixture of things. Mixing various products to achieve the color and contrast I’m going for. Fiebeings dye on raw leather without any preconditioning turns out the same color and splotchy. I have some pics of projects that show these effects. If you want me to post them? I might even remember the recipes I used to get them. 
     

    Jon

  8. I used to use the wax thread for hand sewing and it would stay white if just using neatsfoot oil as a finish. I’ve since switched to tex 270 bonded nylon thread for hand sewing. It will pretty much turn the color of your dye or stain. It still stays white if just using neatsfoot oil. The waxed thread will get splotchy on you if using dyes or stains. If I dye or stain a project nowadays, I’ll do that before stitching if I want the white thread contrast. I do more machine sewing now and use 207 size thread. I’ve hand sewn with it also but I like the 270 better for hand sewing. Recent hand sewn project with white 270 and stained with some saddle tan hi-lighter. 1911 mag holster.

     

    Jon

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  9. Hey, Chris

     

     I just replied to your other thread. A #3 beveler will be ok for 6oz. A #2 would probably look good also. You’ll end up buying every size beveler. I did anyway. On the nine prong punch, that will be a bear to pull back out of two pieces of 6oz leather. I think those 9 prongs are more for wallet and bag makers. A 4 prong is mighty tough to pull back out sometimes. I’ve even broken the glue bond pulling one back out. When I hand sew now, I use just a 2 prong on most projects. I’m fairly new to leather work myself. But I am enjoying it. Trial and error with me. Hope this is of some help!

     

    Jon

    • Like 1
  10. Burnishing gum does work well. On thicker edges it’s great. On thinner edges you have to be extra careful not to get it on the grain. One thing I have found is that bag-kote works really well on thinner edges. I put bag-kote on most of my projects. Put the bag-kote on last and before it dries completely, burnish your edge. Neatsfoot  oil is something else you need if you haven’t gotten it already. Good luck! Leather work can be just as addictive as knife making. 

     

    Jon

     

     

    • Like 2
  11. Ok. So here’s what I came up with. It might require re-heat treating but I think it looks ok. Sorry about the photo. Trying to keep my shadow out. Feel free to picture edit. I’m open to any suggestions.

     

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  12. Thanks, Joshua. I thought the same thing myself about the ricasso. But the small choil? Do you really think it would look right? I’ll draw this out again on paper. I’ll post it up when I do. Thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it.

     

    Jon

  13. Thank you both for the ideas. I drew a handle shape on an outline of the knife. I will need to slim the tang for sure. Let me know what you think. This could change of course. The handle could probably be 1/2” an inch longer. The drawing measures 4-1/8” long.

     

    Thanks, Jon

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  14. Hey, Dragoncutlery. I like the the handle and ricasso design. When you say reshape the guard as a cap and add another behind it, then another under it? I’m not quite sure I’m following you. Do you have a picture of an example? What you did with the photo is exactly what I was wanting to see. Very good feedback. 

     

    Thanks, Jon

  15. Mr. States, thank you for the thoughtful insightful reply. First off, the guard is not soldered on. It’s press fit and pretty tight. My original plan was to finish it on the knife. I did have a handle halfway fit before I decided I didn’t like the way the guard left the small gap at the ricasso. Yes, I get what your saying about the handle being equal distance top to bottom. That’s exactly why I decided to ask for guidance. With the unfinished handle on it just looked wrong and that’s the reason. I’m thinking after reading your reply and your other thread, that I’ll draw some different handle mock-ups. See what looks better to my eye. I might have to remake the guard as much as I would like to avoid it. I will for sure re-sand and re-etch the blade. I’ll try to follow your instructions as best I can the rest of the way. This is my first try at putting a handle on a hidden tang also my first guard. (I made the ricasso too small for this short of a blade didn’t I?)

     

    Thank you very much, Jon

  16. Hello all,

     

      This is my first pattern welded knife and my first brass guard/bolster. I’m having a hard time getting the lines right. I posted this blade awhile back. It’s 288 layers of 15n20 and 1075. Blade about 4 inches. The pictures show iphone photoshop and as is. The handle will be longer for sure. If you could please give me any input or handle shape ideas I would appreciate it. Also, how can I polish the brass without messing with the pattern. You can see from the pictures that I have already tried.

     

    Thanks, Jon

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  17. Hi, Antony. Yes I would still use files. My set up might not be greatest for this belt grinder. It’s just a cheap lowes bench grinder. The thing is, at slow speed with a 36 grit belt, on soft steel that will drill, it would take awhile to do stock removal on something like 3/16”x 1-1/4” steel. Most likely two to three belts. High speed will take more metal off. But I can’t handle it with set up. Thinner  narrower stock it could do well. As I said I forge and set the bevels that way. Say a 4” blade 3/4” tall by 1/8” thick pre beveled during forging, I’m not really gaining anything with this grinder the way it runs. I can finish file a blade that size with good files in a reasonable amount of time. Without a lot of risk ruining the bevel. I will use it on the tang of hidden and thru tangs and also contour work on full tangs. It has its uses for sure. I like Pferd files with a safe edge. If you have more questions let me know. I’ll help the best I can.

     

    Jon

  18. I will add on the tracking. It will track true but getting it there is a pain. I’ve destroyed new belts trying to get it to track. In the  picture, on the left of the belt you can see a little paddle. This is the tracking adjustment. It is very sensitive. One way or the other too far and it will shred a belt fast. I’ve taken to using a wrench to tap on it up or down to get it to track at the slowest speed. If I want to increase speed for grinding steel I increase slowly and tap in the direction it needs to go. The thing is you will tap too hard because you can’t see anything changing. (The tracking varies by speed by the way.) Then the paddle loses its tension and goes loose. Belt shredded. My setup is good at lowest speed to about 1/3 up. Anything faster and it’s horrible. You can still remove metal with it. But I can’t “hog” off steel with it. At higher grits on slow speed it will considerably cut down on hand sanding. I forge by the way. If I were doing stock removal an angle grinder and good files would work better. Hope this helps.

     

    Jon

  19. I own one of these and tried it for knife making. It hasn’t worked out for me. I’ve had it for over two years now. I bought better files. Not to say I don’t use it. But files do most of my work. You can get belts from Jantz or amazon. Not as many grits available for it like a 2x72. The drawback to this thing, for me, is bad tracking and horrible vibration at high speeds. Makes it impossible for me to grind good bevels. There are some things I know I could do to make it better but I don’t want to put in the time and effort. I use it a lot on handles and for leatherwork. Steel, not so much. Attached a pic. It doesn’t look like this now.

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  20. Those are nice. And a customer probably wouldn’t see the issues Garry pointed out. I have found as a novice knife maker and leather worker customers don’t see the flaws. I will always point them out to them, but they don’t seem to care. Get a stitching groover. I like the one with the bar that does the spacing. Then buy another one to do your accent lines? I’m not sure on the terminology. Take it easy laying those lines out. It helps if you have your leather glued together and even on the edges. I use a belt sander to do this. A sharp knife and sandpaper will do the same. Go slow and keep pressure on the outside. It’s a rather difficult skill to master. Don’t be discouraged, those are nice sheaths!

     

    All the best, Jon

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