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Jonny C

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Everything posted by Jonny C

  1. I recently spent 2 days building a nice little tanto knife with a wooden scabbard only to find that the coil spring I used was to low in carbon to harden...nothing like repeating the same mistake multiple times to make you feel like a dumbass lol
  2. Thanks for that tip! Like I was saying I prefer to make larger stuff and I’m still learning so it could get pretty expensive going thru trial and error on 3 foot lengths of new steel, I’ve been making most of my stuff from leaf springs for that reason but I’ve found my share of dud springs going thru the scrap bins
  3. Right on I appreciate the feedback, I had contemplated trying the 80crv2 but wasn’t aware it was that tough, I take my crafts camping and for yard work and I abuse them terribly so durability is priority , hopefully when I’m more experienced I can lend advice and return the favour to noobs like myself
  4. On that note, would you fellows know a good source for steel in Ontario? I’m a couple hours from Toronto and the only supplier I can find is Canadian knife supply, which has a limited variety and sizes of plain carbon steels, and I typically make larger knives and machetes , so an affordable source of 5160 or 52100 would be great
  5. Excellent, thank you all for responding, I’m starting to get the hint that it would be more efficient to buy new known steel lol
  6. This was a piece of steel I had quenched and tempered which broke when I tested it, I noticed there’s two colours in the grain and thought that might mean it is cracked aside from the obvious break, the steel was given to me and I believe they said it was 1080 or 1084
  7. This is a broken piece of a machete I was working on , I kept the pieces and was planning to make knives from them but thought I’d check with you experienced blade smiths before waisting time on potentially flawed steel, thanks for any input
  8. I forged the bevel but didn’t get a nice crisp line, kinda turned into a wedge shape that I was able to grind before I heat treated, Guess it’s time to invest in a proper grinder, thanks for your input
  9. Hello! I’m trying to finish the edge on a knife I’ve made but I don’t have a belt grinder, just a 4X36” sander and my brand new file won’t cut it, the blade has already been heat treated and tempered and I left the edge 1/16” thick , any tips or recommendations on affordable equipment would be appreciated! P.S I do have a bench grinder and angle grinder but I’d prefer a nice clean bevel and plunge line, thanks!
  10. Hope I posted this in the beginners place...I’m hoping for advice on getting a nice, smooth, and uniform bevel and plunge lines on a blade I’m trying to finish, obviously I do not have a belt grinder, just a 4X36”, I usually finish the edges with a file but a file won’t cut it this time, literally. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!! 

  11. Oh ok, thanks for the help everyone, it’s hard to weed thru all the info out there, my usual routine is normalize, forge, grind, normalize, quench, temper, finish grind. Here’s a picture of my leaf spring camp knife, I’ve heard leaf springs aren’t the best for knives but it sure takes a beating and I hacked thru a copper pipe without chipping so I guess it worked alright, I’ll post some pictures of the grain in my broken blade so you can verify the fault
  12. But if I’m working with tempered steel I should normalize it prior to forging, right?
  13. I normalize before forging and before quench, is that ok to do?
  14. I’ve made a couple knives in the last month from semi truck leaf springs, which required many hours of forging, and I’m happy to say I ended up with very durable blades, and I simply forged the spring after normalization, guess I should have just stuck with my routine, my first basic stock removal with a known steel and it’s a disaster! Go figure lol
  15. So I should just do the normalization cycles rather then “annealing”? There’s a lot of information online and YouTube (which has been my source for information) where people are burying steel in sand or cat litter to anneal, this isn’t accurate?
  16. Also I annealed the steel by getting it above none magnetic, kept it at that temperature for about 20 minutes then buried it in sand overnight
  17. I’ll try to add some pictures, after questioning my temprature and looking at a tempering chart I used a torch to temper the remaining steel, I got a fairly consistent shade of blue thru the steel but after testing it broke again, and this was just a stock removal and the steel didn’t have any signs of use or wear and tear, i did 3 normalization cycles prior to quench and steel was above none magnetic
  18. Hello! I’m having problems with some 1084 that was given to me, the steel is flat stock and was previously tempered to soft spring, i annealed the steel prior to working with it, once shaped I quenched in warm canola oil and it skated a file, I tempered in my home oven at 425 degrees for two one hour cycles, the blade broke in two when I stress tested it, this is my first broken blade and my first “known” steel blade, very disappointed, any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
  19. Just returned from the wrecking yard with some good looking coil springs and a big old black diamond rasp....I should think I’ll have better luck with this steel lol thanks for everyone’s advice
  20. Yes it has large grain, and not as brittle as I would have expected, weird stuff, just crappy metal I guess? Old timers at the wrecking yard figure the springs were from a golf cart or something similar
  21. Well I just managed to get a very thin piece of the steel to harden, I quenched it in cold water while the steel was yellow hot and there doesn’t appear to be any cracking
  22. Thank you for the advice! I did heat this blade multiple times and I only ground the surface briefly before trying a file on it, I’ll try your advice, thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to a greenhorn
  23. If anything I’d expect the opposite, like a 1095 that would harden on the surface or in thin spots but not harden deep
  24. It sparked pretty good actually, and I was real careful about decarb, I have no accurate way of getting an actual temperature but most of my test pieces were well above non magnetic, I’ll try putting on the grinder like you said, is it possible for steel to deep harden but stay soft on the surface?
  25. I attempted to quench this blade 4 times and was very careful with decarb and kept it to a minimum, also the blade was normalized between quenches and I observed recalescence and quenched at varying temperatures
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