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Jonny C

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Everything posted by Jonny C

  1. Jonny C

    Bevel advice

    Hello! I’m trying to finish the edge on a knife I’ve made but I don’t have a belt grinder, just a 4X36” sander and my brand new file won’t cut it, the blade has already been heat treated and tempered and I left the edge 1/16” thick , any tips or recommendations on affordable equipment would be appreciated! P.S I do have a bench grinder and angle grinder but I’d prefer a nice clean bevel and plunge line, thanks!
  2. Jonny C

    Bevel advice

    I forged the bevel but didn’t get a nice crisp line, kinda turned into a wedge shape that I was able to grind before I heat treated, Guess it’s time to invest in a proper grinder, thanks for your input
  3. Hope I posted this in the beginners place...I’m hoping for advice on getting a nice, smooth, and uniform bevel and plunge lines on a blade I’m trying to finish, obviously I do not have a belt grinder, just a 4X36”, I usually finish the edges with a file but a file won’t cut it this time, literally. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!! 

  4. Hello! I’m having problems with some 1084 that was given to me, the steel is flat stock and was previously tempered to soft spring, i annealed the steel prior to working with it, once shaped I quenched in warm canola oil and it skated a file, I tempered in my home oven at 425 degrees for two one hour cycles, the blade broke in two when I stress tested it, this is my first broken blade and my first “known” steel blade, very disappointed, any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
  5. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    Oh ok, thanks for the help everyone, it’s hard to weed thru all the info out there, my usual routine is normalize, forge, grind, normalize, quench, temper, finish grind. Here’s a picture of my leaf spring camp knife, I’ve heard leaf springs aren’t the best for knives but it sure takes a beating and I hacked thru a copper pipe without chipping so I guess it worked alright, I’ll post some pictures of the grain in my broken blade so you can verify the fault
  6. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    But if I’m working with tempered steel I should normalize it prior to forging, right?
  7. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    I normalize before forging and before quench, is that ok to do?
  8. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    I’ve made a couple knives in the last month from semi truck leaf springs, which required many hours of forging, and I’m happy to say I ended up with very durable blades, and I simply forged the spring after normalization, guess I should have just stuck with my routine, my first basic stock removal with a known steel and it’s a disaster! Go figure lol
  9. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    So I should just do the normalization cycles rather then “annealing”? There’s a lot of information online and YouTube (which has been my source for information) where people are burying steel in sand or cat litter to anneal, this isn’t accurate?
  10. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    Also I annealed the steel by getting it above none magnetic, kept it at that temperature for about 20 minutes then buried it in sand overnight
  11. Jonny C

    Brittle blade after tempering

    I’ll try to add some pictures, after questioning my temprature and looking at a tempering chart I used a torch to temper the remaining steel, I got a fairly consistent shade of blue thru the steel but after testing it broke again, and this was just a stock removal and the steel didn’t have any signs of use or wear and tear, i did 3 normalization cycles prior to quench and steel was above none magnetic
  12. I believe similar threads have already been posted but I’m curious if someone out there is familiar with what kind of spring steel this could be and possibly how to harden it, I recently acquired a stack of thick leaf springs that look like they came off of a trailer, being a rookie I instantly went to work at forging some big bad blades and to my dismay I was unable to harden them in quench, neither in oil nor water, any insight or suggestions? Thanks
  13. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    Just returned from the wrecking yard with some good looking coil springs and a big old black diamond rasp....I should think I’ll have better luck with this steel lol thanks for everyone’s advice
  14. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    Yes it has large grain, and not as brittle as I would have expected, weird stuff, just crappy metal I guess? Old timers at the wrecking yard figure the springs were from a golf cart or something similar
  15. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    Well I just managed to get a very thin piece of the steel to harden, I quenched it in cold water while the steel was yellow hot and there doesn’t appear to be any cracking
  16. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    Thank you for the advice! I did heat this blade multiple times and I only ground the surface briefly before trying a file on it, I’ll try your advice, thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to a greenhorn
  17. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    If anything I’d expect the opposite, like a 1095 that would harden on the surface or in thin spots but not harden deep
  18. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    It sparked pretty good actually, and I was real careful about decarb, I have no accurate way of getting an actual temperature but most of my test pieces were well above non magnetic, I’ll try putting on the grinder like you said, is it possible for steel to deep harden but stay soft on the surface?
  19. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    I attempted to quench this blade 4 times and was very careful with decarb and kept it to a minimum, also the blade was normalized between quenches and I observed recalescence and quenched at varying temperatures
  20. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    I’m fairly new to this and am working with very primitive equipment, but I have had great results quenching other steels, these leaf springs are making me scratch my head though, they were free so I’m not heartbroken if I can’t use them but if there was something fundamental that I’m missing I’d gratefully accept any advice
  21. Jonny C

    Unquenchable leaf springs

    After failing to harden a blade I had forged I cut multiple test pieces and attempted to harden them, at different temperatures, in cold oil, hot oil, cold water, and hot water, all test pieces were above non magnetic, some well above non magnetic, even approaching forge welding tempratures, all with roughly the same result, I tested with files, ball bearing bounce, and hammer blows, the steel did not become brittle, though one test piece quenched in cold water seemed to harden superficially , but I may have been kidding myself
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