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James Simonds

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  1. I don't make normal things, and this is one of the more eccentric projects i have completed. A vaguely tanto inspired letter opener that pairs a san mai blade with a lovely bit of two tone blackwood. The blade resembles dawn over dark mountains, and the two tone case pairs with it perfectly. The reverse side of the blade is very different. pure dark heartwood, and a blade that is mostly dark, with pools of light. I like the contrast between the two sides. Everyone here knows t
  2. Genuine question not meant to 'start' something. But why is this a Bowie? i know there are broadly varying styles of Bowie, and it changed over time, but this seems more like some sort of sabre hilted dagger? no clip point, pretty much symmetrical etc.
  3. The wood 'might' be black walnut but i also think its too hard to be walnut, it might be some sort of tropical hardwood, honestly i don't know. i had it on the shelf for years. For this i wanted something very dark and with clean, simple, straight figure, to give good contrast to the metal. The other one is black ash burl, and it is such a lovely bit of timber. look at it all oiled up and fresh. Thank you Chadd. It was a total nightmare to assemble, I would never do it again without a solid through tang. having to make a pinjoint and then put that massive bar of Bronze
  4. I recently posted an Anglo saxon style seax blade that i had fitted and finished. This time its a blade that I forged myself, 3 bar construction (random, pinstripe, twist). the blade style isn't historical, it is my own design, and the handle isnt historical either, it is in art deco style. I expect the aesthetics to be divisive, but i like the fact that this is, as far as i can tell, a fairly original style. I haven't seen anyone make this style of layered handle although these days very little is truly original, i'm sure someone some where has done this before!
  5. That is a damn fine first knife.
  6. yeah im looking forwards to it all aging differently. i thought about doing some forced aging, blueing etc. but i have time and dont need it in a hurry. im keeping this one so its not going anywhere. It will particularly make the nickel silver layer stand out against the bronze. The downside is Aluminium bronze isn't the prettiest aging grade of Bronze, but i had it, and i didn't have tin bronze. so, we'll see what happens.
  7. This is a seax blade that i bought, not forged myself, and re-finished, etched, and did all the handle and fittings for. I have another seax in the works that i forged myself, but this one was just because it was such a pretty blade and i wanted to finish it up. It also gave me a chance to try some techniques i haven't used before, and get a little practice. The blade is yet unnamed. dont feel like naming a blade i didnt forge. suggestion box at the bottom though! The blade is 3 bar construction, a matched pair of twist bars over random pattern. the pattern
  8. Yeah i spent ages cleaning the workshop and all my gear afterwards, not worth the effort on multiple counts. Other woods are just as nice and far less difficult to handle. Did you recover? hope all is well.
  9. You should come, it will be great, and 'IF' we are lucky, and everything goes according to plan, they 'might' be unveiling something very special there, not hard to guess what if you have seen my post on the subject. Big IFs there on all fronts. But it will be an excellent gathering regardless, some super visiting speakers. im very excited (and praying the damn virus doesn't stop it)
  10. Yes, in retrospect that pattern is much more striking and i should have used the same material throughout. but i still have more of that steel and the carving knife will be made from it. so, its not a total disaster!
  11. Right, time for an update. i know its been 4 months, but things move slowly in the making a mastercraft Norse sword world. slow is good, it means its being done right! @owen bush finished the forging of the blade late last year, and did a marvelous job. the blade looks superb. see his instagram for more, but here are some snaps. So the construction of the blade is revealed. at the core, layered wrought, bloomery and meteorite iron forming this subtle 3 colour pinstripe effect on an overall bright, light heart. This is the
  12. Another Owen Florianek masterpeice. love your work as always. These guys have a collaboration for me in the works that will knock everyone's socks off. soon....
  13. I have finished a new set of 3 kitchen knives with sayas. An 8 inch slicer, a 6.5 inch chef's (was supposed to be 7 inch but i had a whoopsie , so it looks a little 'stout' to my eye) and a 5.5 inch petty. I made these for myself and since there was no outside purpose or spec, used them to try a load of different things i wanted to experiment with. so its an eclectic set where not everything matches but there are some consistent features that give it a common style: - Angular, raked blades, handles and sayas. this set is facets on facets on facets. the only curves you will f
  14. It all worked out in the end. the areas of orange staining are darker, but no longer garish, and the handles are looking sweet and figured. pretty happy. might make a proper post about these knives later.
  15. Chris, i have used both scotchbrite pads and the Blue belt grinder version. My advice would be....dont. i find that scotchbrite is great for covering over scratches, but if you have gone to 800 hand sanded, that will be, in my eyes, a nicer finish than scotchbrite. But, its all personal perspective. try it, and if you dont like it, just re-do the 800 grit. 800 grit should remove all the scotchbrite effect very quickly.
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