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Mick Morley

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    Making things, breaking things, fixing things.

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  1. When I was 8, my dad carved me a Bowie knife from a piece of wood. Obviously, it would barely cut freshy laid horse turd but I loved it all the same. In honor of my dad, I figured my first real knife should be a Bowie. It started as an 11" x 2" piece of 80CrV2 and last weekend I forged out the tip, adding around 1.5" to the length. Today, I forged out the tang, adding another couple of total inches. Inspired by Gary's supreme Bowie in this section (and doubting I had enough material for a full tang) I decided to go for a hidden tang. However, the steel had other ideas and my lack of skill
  2. Thanks Gary. I figured as much but wanted to check. I don't think I have enough material for a full tang but I think I prefer your hidden tang design. That handle aesthetic is pretty special.
  3. So you're suggesting there's no reason to maintain the fillet radius post heat treat? I guess I'm not chopping trees down with it but the engineer in me would always want to maintain some radius.
  4. Over the new year I started forging my first "real steel" knife. Having paid for the materials, I'm inclined to consider the design and process a little more carefully that my previous haphazrd bashings on railroad spikes and coil spring. With that in mind, I was looking for some advice concerning the next step, the forging out of the tang. The beginning of the video (link below) lays out my intentions for the blade whereby I have around 2.5 inches of length and around 1.5 inches of material to forge out into a tang. Given the size of blade I want, I don't think there's enough left there for a
  5. Nice. I've just started on my first Bowie and may have to steal borrow elements of that handle design. I'm assuming the pip on the butt of the handle is the end on the tang?
  6. I'm awaiting delivery of a suitable thermocouple so can't go beyond forging until it arrives. For forging temps, I'm just going by color and feel. I still have to forge out the tang but my tanks were beginning to freeze up yesterday, not to mention my poor little arm was getting tired . Today, I needed to do a few repairs on the forge, so it'll be a few days before I get the chance to get back to it. It would be no surprise if I screw up my first "real steel" knife but with the right info and guidance, I'm hoping I can pull it off with some satisfaction.
  7. After seeking advice on a beginner steel, I just bought a couple of bars each of 1084 and 80CrV2 from AKS for my first attempts at a blade from known steel. Jumping straight in at the deep end, I got to work on the biggest piece of 80CrV2 for a clip point Bowie as it was the only one that allowed the profile I wanted. I forged the tip out yesterday and now need to forge out the tang. I do have a question on the specified heat treat though... On the Alpha website, it states the heat treat as a soak time of 5 minutes at 1545-1615 F followed by the quench and temper according to their
  8. Of course... I finally went back to finish off reading Vern's "so you want to make a knife" sticky post that I bailed out of halfway through a few days ago, and discover the whole section on descalesence! D'oh!
  9. When you talk about rising heat, are you referring to: a) active external heating in the forge? OR b) rising heat due to the internal energy release of the blade out of the forge? If "a", then how am I able to see that in the forge?
  10. Clearly I still have a lot of learning in this area. From what I read/watched so far I was of the understanding that descalesence occurs as the blade cooled and was best viewed in low light, and that recalesence occurs as the blade is heated in the forge, where the heat (light) of the forge make it almost impossible to see? I was skim reading a long thread on the subject here yesterday but I'm not sure I pulled the right info from it. My attention span when reading isn't the best... SQUIRREL...!!! Anyhow, in the meantime, (and for what it was worth) I tempered the break-offs from the quen
  11. Hi Alan. It seems you are custodian of the names. Would you mind changing my name to Mick Morley? Thanks.
  12. I was doing a little metallurgy study and came across this craziness. There's a whole MacGuyver episode waiting to be written around this...
  13. Yeah, I found the grain structure very interesting. There's a big difference in grain between the two samples, which suggests the quench from different temperatures is certainly part of that story. I didn't normalise at all after forging out either piece. However, on the knives, I have done 2-3 cycles before final heat and quench. As for descalescence, I watched a bunch of videos on YouTube (there's not too many when you search the term "descalescence") and even though I didn't get as impressive as show as the videos (probably the material?) I took an approximation based on what I coud se
  14. Thanks. I figured it had to be something like that but wanted to understand it a little better. I just can't research fast enough to keep up with what I'm trying to achieve in my few days off work. I'm still working with junk/mystery steel right now, although my shipment of 1084 and 80CrV2 just arrived today. I really want to be on top of things before I start on "the good stuff".
  15. I forged an cutdown stock for my Auto5 so my daughter can come and shoot clays. The problem with wood is that it burns up real easy in the forge!
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