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Randy Griffin

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Everything posted by Randy Griffin

  1. I’ve run into a wall on this one. The turkey legs, no matter how long they have been drying, have oil in them. The caps on the end keep popping off. Using g-flex glue and roughing the surfaces. I’m going to try a soak in acetone but don’t know what that will do to the leg. Any ideas? edit-I just went back and read Alan’s last reply. He said exactly what I did above.
  2. I just want to come drink beer with you.
  3. My latest and greatest. My idea of bird and trout. Got another rust problem though. Every time I see rust I’m thinking glue. May just be the humidity though. Anybody had problems with weldwood contact cement on sheaths? It’s only on the edge at the very tip. Photo is before the rust started.
  4. Yes. Go to that meeting. You will learn a lot from watching. With your setup, I think you should try charcoal. You can buy natural lump charcoal at Walmart. Gets hot, takes very little air and is easy to keep lit. Get it going and a piece of hot steel and start hitting it.
  5. Anybody using the cubitron belts? There’s not many reviews on them but they’re all good. I have grinding and cutting discs with this same technology and they are great.
  6. All the oily parts are inside. I actually think if I stabilize the whole thing without cutting it the resin would get under the scales fine. I’m going to try the superglue first and if that doesn’t work I’ll use some of these ideas. I’ve got plenty legs to practice on.
  7. That may work and I’ll try it. First I’m going to get some E-Z Bond thin glue. It’s a super glue that is the consistency of water. Hoping it’ll wick under the scales.
  8. I think it’s going to turn out nice. Not a heavy hitter because the tang has to be very small. I don’t think I can stabilize it because even dry it has a lot of oil. I’ve got another idea I’m working on. Here is a rough prototype of what it’s going to look like. The final blade will be forged with the black forged texture left.
  9. West coast belts. Ordered on Amazon.
  10. Randy Griffin


    A friend stopped by a while back and gave me a bandsaw. I did a little research and found tires and a blade for it. I got a 3/8” blade instead of the 1/4” that’s on it. Got it running today. It’s sluggish starting so I ordered bearings for the pulleys. I think that should take care of the sluggishness. Other than that, it runs and cuts great. I’ll have about $50 in it.
  11. That’s a good idea. I have a couple feet to practice on and they have been on the dash of a truck for 2 years so should be dry. I know someone that might can stabilize it for me. If not, what about wood hardener?
  12. I had a guy ask me to make a pair of turkey foot knives. Basically it will be the leg with the spur and I’ll cap both ends. No hard use, mostly for show. Should be pretty easy because it’s just a hidden tang knife. My question, what can I seal it with? I want something that is wicking so it will wick under the scales, hopefully bringing out more of the red color. Super glue? Polyurethane thinned down? It needs to dry completely. I don’t think something oily would work. IDEAS?
  13. I haven’t looked at my blade yet this morning but have been reading and there are lots of threads out there talking about this very problem. I’m now thinking the glue is the problem. I use g/flex for the scales and use Elmer’s for the saya. From what I’m seeing there are lots of glues that will rust steel. Elmers is one of them. I’m picking up some titebond original tomorrow to try. Might even get some hide glue to try.
  14. G/Flex. I got one coated with mustard. I’ll see what that does. It’s only on the blade and edge. The metal showing between the scales looks fine. One that doesn’t have a saya yet is showing the same. Even with mineral oil on it. I’m thinking it is the steel in the saw blades. I’ve got a knife made from 1084 on the bench close to them. Coated with mineral oil and it is spotless.
  15. I’m still having problems with brown spots. I started making the saya’s from poplar but am still getting it. These knives are from industrial bandsaw blades. The paring knives from a 2” blade and I’m making some larger knives from a 10” blade. Could it be the steel and not the saya. Do you think a forced patina would help? They were all cleaned with alcohol and coated with mineral oil. Still got the stains. Some knives are worse than others. Some don’t show any stains. I’m going to clean one good and coat with mustard overnight to see what happens. What do y’all think? You can see the stains along the edge.
  16. This has been discussed before. What did y’all not understand last time. it won’t work.
  17. Kiridashi I made for a friend. 1084 steel, maple handle.
  18. Small paring knife for my cousin. 3 1/2” blade. Poplar saya, thanks for the tip Alan.
  19. Thanks Alan. I got some poplar too. I got about 10 sayas to make. Was going to deliver some knives tomorrow but they will have to wait till I remake the sayas.
  20. Another bump. I'm having the same problem with pine. I made a saya from a white pine 2x4 and just noticed a small amount of brown on the blade. Is pine acidic like cedar?
  21. The 0000 steel wool worked great. The problem was the fine sand dust coming off the tang. Steel wool is not hard enough to cut the steel so it just cleaned the wood. Thanks Alan.
  22. The cheapo and 3M does it. Mostly the higher grits like 500 up. 220 does a little but not nearly as bad. It’s worse on the edges of the scales where I’m sanding wood and metal. Going to try the steel wool.
  23. My sandpaper is leaving a grey residue on my wood. I have cheapo from Amazon and I have 3M. It’s not noticeable on darker wood but I’m using some hard maple and it’s turning the wood grey. I tried alcohol and it helped but didn’t clean all of it off. Y’all got any tricks?
  24. Agreed, not a lot of practical use other than a great conversation piece. 99.9% of people have never seen a knife that is hair splitting sharp. I like a knife almost shaving to skin and debone and shaving to slice. I guess hair splitting would be good for slicing fish.
  25. Gerhard, if you get interested, I’ve got less than $50 in my sharpening equipment. A diamond block with 4 sides up to 600 grit and wet dry sandpaper up to 3000 grit glued to a piece of glass. I made a strop from some old leather I had laying around. I’ll not sell a knife until I know it’ll get sharp as it was designed to.
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