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Zane Thompson

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    my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, Texas, Freedom, guns, blades, hunting, fishing, rare steaks and good looking women.

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  1. It's Orcrist! Forged by the Elves of Gondolin in the first age. seriously though, really cool sword! would be neat to find out more about it.
  2. thanks for posting it Sir!
  3. anyone here have the email address for High Temperature Tools & Refractory? if so would you please message it to me? for some reason I can't get the link on their website to work.
  4. thanks y'all, i thought there might be enough steel there for two smaller blades but i really didn't want to start anything till i knew for sure. may play it safe and just do one but i haven't decided for sure yet.
  5. How large a blade could i forge out from a 4 1/2" x 0.925 x 0.460 bar? Would that be enough steel for say a 5" hidden tang hunter? I completed my first successful forge weld last night using some 1 1/4" cable. ended up with about a 10" bar which i split in half. The plan was to forge weld the two pieces together and then forge a mid size blade from that but now i'm leaning towards making a couple small hunters instead.
  6. Thanks y'all! was able to re texture the ricasso area this evening. as soon as i have time i'll finish grinding it and then try for the heat treat.
  7. had some time on Christmas to do a little forging so I decided to try and forge out my first full tang blade. gotta say i'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far. I used a 1 1/4" x 5" x 3/8" piece of leaf spring and ended up with a blade that has a .225 thick spine at the ricasso, a 5 1/4" cutting edge and is just under 10 1/4" oal. was able to get the distal taper in the blade and the tang, forged in the bevels and made sure it was completely straight. first time I remembered to get all that done in the same blade. here are some pics right after it was forged. and here are some pics after I profiled it and did some light grinding. i love the look of Brute de forge knives so I'm probably not going to go any higher with the grind. and before heat treat i'll need to pop it back into the forge and try and re-texture the ricasso area as it got cleaned up some when I flattened the tang. i'm thinking maybe bone for the scales and copper pins, but haven't decided for sure yet.
  8. hahaha! well it looks nice but it sure doesn't hold up very well!
  9. thanks everyone! i definitely want to get better so I really appreciate all the advice!
  10. made this little saw for cleaning out hidden tang handles. I think I used a 10tpi jigsaw blade. and a 4" oal file guide. it started life as a worn out 5/8" square file. first I softened it, cut it with the band saw, ground all the teeth off, epoxied it together and drilled the holes for the bolts and the guide pins. heat treat was a little difficult since I don't know what the steel is so I first did an oil quench and it did get hard but not hard enough so I ended up heat treating it again with a water quench and that did the trick. it's not pretty but it's flat and that's what counts lol. if I ever make another i'll probably use larger guide pins. the ones I used are 1/8" drill bit shanks and while the work well I think larger pins would do much better.
  11. with work keeping me busy I haven't had as much time as i'd like to practice my forging but thankfully I've been able to do a little bit each Sunday night and I think I am improving. I've mostly been using old worn out files and rasps to practice on, that way if I screw it up i'm not really out much. my first forged blade made from a file/rasp like the one in the picture. was going for a wharncliff style blade. definitely not pretty lol. my second forged blade. small hunter out of a scrap piece of 1084. my third and fourth forged blades. I used one 10 inch file like in the picture for these two. and my fifth blade. used a farriers rasp for this one. probably not going to finish it due to all the cold shuts but it was fun to make. cutting edge is a little over 10". before profiling. and after profiling. so far it's been a lot of fun!
  12. I'm still a noob so keep that in mind but here's my two cents. Stay away from the tractor supply coal. It's Anthracite and can be extremely difficult to use. Before i started forging i read everything i could on using anthracite, forums, youtube, everything google would bring up. Thinking i would have no problems i bought 8 bags. ( it's a seasonal product here so i wanted to stock up) no matter how i shaped my JABOD, how much air i gave it, or how small i broke up the "nut" sized pieces i could never get it to work. I would stay away from the birquettes as well. Stick with hardwood lump charcoal. any brand. I usually get whatever is cheapest, royal oak is a real good one though. You can also make your own. Right now i have three JABOD forges. two are small, but i just built a longer one for heat treating that is rather similar to yours. when i made it i thought about doing the slits in the tuyere but decided to drill holes in it instead.My thinking was that with the slits, air would too easily pour out of the beginning of the tuyere and would be too weak at the end. I thought if i went with the holes a small amount of pressure would build in the tuyere ensuring every hole got an equal amount of airflow. I don't know if my thinking on that is right or wrong but so far the forge has worked great. I used it just last night to anneal some old files and rasps. The steel got an equal heat throughout and it didn't take long at all to get to forging temps.
  13. Thank you Mr. Coe, will read them as soon as i get to my computer. Thanks Daniel, i was thinking the pipe would be my best bet right now. Thanks Alan, i'll scrap the turkey fryer burner for now and go with something else. Thanks Joshua, on the blades i meant OAL, short swords will come later lol. i wasn't aware you could have that much control over the temperature in a gas forge. I just assumed you let it run and pull out your steel when it reached 1800 F or so. good to know. Right now i just want to build something simple and once i get the hang of things i can always build another one that would better suit my needs then.
  14. howdy, lately I've been thinking about building a propane forge but before I start I thought i'd better check and make sure I was on the right track. first, is a smaller forge more efficient than a larger forge? common sense would say yes but what do I know lol. originally I was planning to use an old propane tank or a 5 gallon air tank for the forge body but got to thinking they may be larger than I need right now. I have some 8" wide pipe and I think some 6" or 8" wide tubing that might be a better starting option for me. second, not having any experience with burners i'm having a hard time deciding what would be best one to use. atlas forge sells a 100k btu burner with a 30 psi regulator for around 70 bucks which looks like a good option. and I was also thinking about the venturi burner kit from high temp tools. by the time I got that and then a regulator i'd be looking at about $80 to $100. another option I just discovered here on the forum is the turkey fryer burner. looks like I could get a burner and regulator combo on amazon for around $30. any suggestions on what to go with? third, if I did go with the 8" pipe for the forge body would 2" of inswool coated in satanite be a good combo? or is there something better? my main interests right now are 10" to 15" Bowies and fighters and eventually trying my hand at Damascus so i'd like to build a forge that could handle all of that without being overkill. thanks in advance! Zane.
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