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Zane Thompson

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Everything posted by Zane Thompson

  1. Thanks! I had it about twice that thick so definitely too much.
  2. For a heat treated, 7-10” flat ground Bowie what thickness should the edge be at before I start to sharpen it? going for a convex edge. I’m having a hard time getting a good edge on some larger blades and believe I might be leaving them too thick.
  3. Thanks for the reply’s y’all. The edge was pretty thin so I’m hoping that is the issue. I think I’ll get it sharp again and see how long it will hold an edge cutting rope, plastic, old garden hose etc. it’s meant to be a skinning/hunting knife, not a chopper so maybe I was too rough on it.
  4. will the edge of a correctly heat treated knife roll if it’s thin? or is it a sign it’s a little soft. I’m working on a 1084 hunter that I believe I heat treated and tempered correctly. (2, two hour cycles in oven at 425, did use an oven thermometer) edge was probably 25 thousands when I started to sharpen it. once I got it hair popping sharp I started testing it. chopped into an antler, through a 1x3, then spent 10 minutes chopping 1/4”-1” thick mesquite and cedar limbs. when I was done the edge would cut but would no longer shave and out towards the tip th
  5. It's Orcrist! Forged by the Elves of Gondolin in the first age. seriously though, really cool sword! would be neat to find out more about it.
  6. anyone here have the email address for High Temperature Tools & Refractory? if so would you please message it to me? for some reason I can't get the link on their website to work.
  7. thanks y'all, i thought there might be enough steel there for two smaller blades but i really didn't want to start anything till i knew for sure. may play it safe and just do one but i haven't decided for sure yet.
  8. How large a blade could i forge out from a 4 1/2" x 0.925 x 0.460 bar? Would that be enough steel for say a 5" hidden tang hunter? I completed my first successful forge weld last night using some 1 1/4" cable. ended up with about a 10" bar which i split in half. The plan was to forge weld the two pieces together and then forge a mid size blade from that but now i'm leaning towards making a couple small hunters instead.
  9. Thanks y'all! was able to re texture the ricasso area this evening. as soon as i have time i'll finish grinding it and then try for the heat treat.
  10. had some time on Christmas to do a little forging so I decided to try and forge out my first full tang blade. gotta say i'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far. I used a 1 1/4" x 5" x 3/8" piece of leaf spring and ended up with a blade that has a .225 thick spine at the ricasso, a 5 1/4" cutting edge and is just under 10 1/4" oal. was able to get the distal taper in the blade and the tang, forged in the bevels and made sure it was completely straight. first time I remembered to get all that done in the same blade. here are some pics right after it was forged.
  11. hahaha! well it looks nice but it sure doesn't hold up very well!
  12. thanks everyone! i definitely want to get better so I really appreciate all the advice!
  13. made this little saw for cleaning out hidden tang handles. I think I used a 10tpi jigsaw blade. and a 4" oal file guide. it started life as a worn out 5/8" square file. first I softened it, cut it with the band saw, ground all the teeth off, epoxied it together and drilled the holes for the bolts and the guide pins. heat treat was a little difficult since I don't know what the steel is so I first did an oil quench and it did get hard but not hard enough so I ended up heat treating it again with a water quench and that did the trick. it's not pretty but it's flat and t
  14. with work keeping me busy I haven't had as much time as i'd like to practice my forging but thankfully I've been able to do a little bit each Sunday night and I think I am improving. I've mostly been using old worn out files and rasps to practice on, that way if I screw it up i'm not really out much. my first forged blade made from a file/rasp like the one in the picture. was going for a wharncliff style blade. definitely not pretty lol. my second forged blade. small hunter out of a scrap piece of 1084. my third and fourth
  15. I'm still a noob so keep that in mind but here's my two cents. Stay away from the tractor supply coal. It's Anthracite and can be extremely difficult to use. Before i started forging i read everything i could on using anthracite, forums, youtube, everything google would bring up. Thinking i would have no problems i bought 8 bags. ( it's a seasonal product here so i wanted to stock up) no matter how i shaped my JABOD, how much air i gave it, or how small i broke up the "nut" sized pieces i could never get it to work. I would stay away from the birquettes as well. Stick w
  16. Thank you Mr. Coe, will read them as soon as i get to my computer. Thanks Daniel, i was thinking the pipe would be my best bet right now. Thanks Alan, i'll scrap the turkey fryer burner for now and go with something else. Thanks Joshua, on the blades i meant OAL, short swords will come later lol. i wasn't aware you could have that much control over the temperature in a gas forge. I just assumed you let it run and pull out your steel when it reached 1800 F or so. good to know. Right now i just want to build so
  17. howdy, lately I've been thinking about building a propane forge but before I start I thought i'd better check and make sure I was on the right track. first, is a smaller forge more efficient than a larger forge? common sense would say yes but what do I know lol. originally I was planning to use an old propane tank or a 5 gallon air tank for the forge body but got to thinking they may be larger than I need right now. I have some 8" wide pipe and I think some 6" or 8" wide tubing that might be a better starting option for me. second, not having any experience with burner
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