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Roger Moore

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Roger Moore last won the day on January 10 2019

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  1. Cheers Joël I'll get some ordered .... at this rate I'll have to flog knife 1 to be able to afford everything i need to make knife 2!
  2. Anyone hear from the UK? if so where do you recommend for buying wood such as bog oak? Iron wood? Thank you to everyone for all you comments and help so far.
  3. A brief update. I've ordered 25 litres of Rape seed / canola oil and a re-sealable 20 litre steel pail with lid so my workshop doesn't smell like a fish and chip shop. Ill also order some more 80CrV2 to experiment with. Do any of you use coatings at all? How about this? " ATP-641 Anti-Scale Coating ATP-641 Anti-Scale Coating Manufactured in the USA this coating is suitable for both oil quenching and air quenching steels in order to minimise the formation of scale and pitting in heat treatment. It has a temperature range of 1000F (537C) to 2400F (1315C). It can e
  4. Tim ....Thank you ..... great minds think alike I hope I haven't forgotten anyone
  5. Bond Bond and more Bond Thank you Gerhard Grimsmo brothers ... not yet, I will Google Grimsmo brothers ... Blimey ... not cheap are they!
  6. Brian - thank you for the kind comments - oh the Bond comments, whish a had a $ for every time I've heard one
  7. All .... it’s nearly bed time here in the uk so I’ll respond properly in the morning.
  8. " Sorry to hijack your thread Roger! That's a very impressive first knife btw." Joël Don't be daft, no hijacking at all .... I just set out to make something and did a bit of research beforehand. Thoroughly enjoyed making it and next time want to do it better. (oh dear, that sounds like I'm hooked!) I never imagined for a moment i would be talking to anyone on here or having the balls to post any pictures of the outcome of my efforts. I absorb information and any scrap of it is useful. Roger parks 50? https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/product-category/ancill
  9. Thanks Alan Canola in the UK seems to be very expensive, rapeseed not so I think I'll give that a try as well. Also need a bigger quenching pot. I had to commandeer the toilet roll holder and fill it with oil as it was the only suitable metal container i could come up with at the time. Since been reinstated for its designed purpose - So glad I'm single
  10. Ok... got it. Cleary this is going to be something of an art rather than a science. Maybe the way forward is for me to make some simple polished samples and try heat treating them with different parameters. A spot of trial and error with simple pieces rather than a part finished blade
  11. looking back at some video I took...... I went with 860 degrees as it was middle of the road between 840 and 880 as recommended. I put some wood coals from my log burner in there as id read somewhere it helps to take the oxygen out and help with scaling. Oven temp dropped to 727 when I opened the door to put the blade in. I then waited for it to get back up to 860 and gave it a further 7-10 mins " massive decarb "? " You wont get all carbon into solution if you austenize at 1475, some will remain cementite. "? remeber this is all new to me .....
  12. Hi Doug From the suppliers website: 80CrV2 is a high carbon tool steel with excellent toughness. It has an easier heat treatment process. Each piece is supplied surface ground and mill-scale free! It is also known as 1080+. Heat Treatment Instructions:- Heat to 840 to 880 degrees centigrade - hold for 5 - 10 minutes Quench in Oil Tempering Range (2 Hours): 150 degrees centigrade - 63HRc 200 degrees centigrade - 60HRc 250 degrees centigrade - 57HRc I tempered at 160-170 degrees, so its calculated not measured. " I'm not fond of extreme clips like that" -
  13. Many thanks to you all for your very kind comments and suggestions. All taken on board. Whenever I've hardened anything in the past, its probably been lapped / cleaned up afterwards in the lathe, so fairly easy in comparison to a blade. The un-machined part of the blade had a ground finish on it as it was ground flat stock. The machined bevel was actually a much better surface finish than the ground part. I Guess it was probably ground with something like an 80 grit or coarser wheel. I pondered how far to go with the blade before heat treating but wrongly concluded that it w
  14. Thanks for the reply Jeremy CNC is ok, but it's not exactly "file print" ... sometimes making things the old fashioned way is easier (and quicker)!) The blade looked almost finished when it came off the mill. Then took 3 days of wet and dry and blistered fingers to get it back after hardening it. ..... would have been a lot easier had I had a decent belt sander in hindsight.
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