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Stephen Asay

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About Stephen Asay

  • Birthday 07/03/1997

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    Clemson SC,
  • Interests
    God, Family, Country, That spattered look of a blade right after a good quench, A job well done.

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  1. Don't feel embarrased, just forge the blade a little oversized and grind/file down to the exact shape. I look at forging as getting the shape 90%, that last 10% will take ten times longer if you want to get the blade to the exact shape. I always marvel at the people that make knives with the "as forged" finish on the spine, I guess that sort of precision with the hammer comes around the 1000 hour+ mark I always think I forged way too thin, only to find out I have to grind off a ton of metal. It must be a learned behavior from the few times I did forge too thin and left a gap in the tang.
  2. I know I'm a little late to the party, but I just wanted to say that you are light years ahead of a lot of people starting. You have the right mindset. You will make the first knife good enough to carry with pride, which is a lot more than I could say for most of the knives I have made yet. A few ideas that you may benefit from: -Don't let the idea of making a 'perfect' knife stop you from making dozens of really good knives. I had to look back and realize that I was whining that my work wasn't as good as I wanted, when I had finished less than two dozen knives in several years. If I had just grit my teeth and finished one or two a week I'd be way ahead right now. -Get the best tools you can afford as soon as you have the real use of them. Some tools will really make the process 10x faster and the result much better. What I mean by that is that as soon as you see a bottlekneck in your process find a way to make it better faster. At the same time don't go crazy and spend tons of money if you are only making one knife a week. The last idea is for designing a handle, get a hold of some clay, roll it into a one inch round cylinder then squeeze it in your hand to see what shape it makes, then find a way to work that sort of shape in a pleasing design.
  3. You sure wouldn't want to see my third knife, come to think of it I remember slicing some fingers pretty good trying to drill pin holes after sharpening the blade . It seems like you have a better grasp already. I know that handle will work well because I was playing with clay trying to design a better handle, and that is roughly the shape that comes out when you squeeze a ball of clay.
  4. Thanks, must have had the wrong link. I went ahead and started making a knife today, went pretty quick though I must have lost callous privilege because drawing out gave me a good little blister. 1/8 inch thick, about 6 inches overall. I triple normalized and quenched in water. Must have been all of the prayers or something because the heat treat went perfectly it seems. Tempering now at 400F. It is so much smaller than what I usually end up making, but I can already tell that it is going to be the best knife I have made yet. Edit: here is another picture that better shows the profile.
  5. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=disability+kitchen+knives&rlz=1C1OPRA_enGB578GB579&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWseK42afKAhVH0RQKHcLTCNIQ_AUIBygB&biw=1242&bih=585#imgrc=i0ZAUnlNXVTuDM: I recently came across this while looking for inspiration, sound similar to what you are thinking of, I think it works because instead of using the fingers for strength, you are pushing with the palm, so the fingers are just holding the knife steady. Instead of a wrist movement using a knife as a whole arm, almost 'punching move'. Having the blade in front of the handle would be good because of eliminating leverage. I have never used or even seen a knife like that before, so I am interested in seeing what you come up with. I guess just keep the cutting edge close to in line with the hand.
  6. I drew another, even smaller this time at under 6" overall, 2.5 inch blade and only about 3/4" wide. (150 mm long, 20 mm wide). I really like how it looks, plus with such a small and thin blade it should be relatively quick to pull off. I am going to try both scandi and full flat on this one. I may or may not make the first design, it depends on how I feel after finishing the top one.
  7. I really like the look, really crisp lines!
  8. Anecdote: I made exactly one rr spike knife (out of having over 100 rail road spikes at one point), I quenched it in cold brine and I was able to do a 2x4 chop test with it. I left the handle area square though so it gave me blisters. I leave it out by the forge to cut open bags of coal and charcoal as I need to.
  9. I really like that handle shape, you really pull it off! It sure looks like a good grip and comfortable to use!
  10. Well, Thanks so much for all of the replies, I don't feel so helpless anymore! Anyway, I decided to make a new design. I started with a lump of clay, I squeezed it in my hand to get an idea of a more natural shape handle, because to be honest all my knife handles to date are a little beyond saving. I also did some google image-fu and found some aspects I liked in other blades. I never want to plagiarize so I made sure that I made the design my own. Thinking about the use case of these knives, the blade is a lot shorter, and the handle was trimmed down too. If you need a longer blade you are either A. swinging, B Stabbing, or C. cooking, none of which was the intended purpose of this particular knife. I wanted to make a smaller fixed blade knife for more general EDC, something more comfortable to carry while still being versatile. Smaller = 10x easier to flatten, heat treat, and grind. In this case it might be a little TOO small, but I will try making one next week to see how it feels in the hand. Meanwhile someone asks me how much it would be to make a camping machete . I like scandi because it is easy to sharpen to a stub, but I can potentially regrind even after putting a handle on if it doesn't seem right. That 20 degree edge just slices through wood like butter though.
  11. Thanks. The patina is mustard, didsn't quite turn out like the pro's though. Heat treatment is a real pain right now, it is mostly what is keeping me from making more blades. I see what you mean by the grind and palm swell.
  12. So I am here waiting at the hospital (my dad is having some stones pulled). I wasn't going to post this one but I decided to get some opinions on it. The idea was to make a nice practical EDC knife, and technically it works, it is a little big, as in too big for me to want to carry it all of the time. I like how the handle turned out, but overall it is not a very pleasing shape. Practically it works great, it is just a bit... ugly. I want to get the concept of a user knife down, and I want it to not just work good, but also look good. This, well it doesn't really look like anything, does it? I am thinking of making one smaller, with a more curved handle shape, and a more gradual drop point, also thinner. Honestly I really don't know where to go from here, my knives used to be a gradual progression of small changes, there are elements that I like here, but I can't imagine them looking any good except for a complete redesign. I really like having a scandi grind, doesn't really fit overall though. So any thoughts on blade shape? Handle shape? Any opinions help, I am pretty clueless.
  13. That's gorgeous! Too nice to not use .
  14. I am honestly most impressed with how nice that handle looks, I tried to work black palm once and I said never again. I really like it, looks like a joy to use for sure!
  15. Thanks! Yeah I decided to go with about 10 degrees on each side figuring my setup was not too precise. I am really liking the utility of the blade, much better for working in the yard than a convex or full flat grind.
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