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Stephen Asay

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About Stephen Asay

  • Birthday 07/03/1997

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    Family, Country, That spattered look of a blade right after a good quench, A job well done.

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  1. https://www.oldworldanvils.com/the-bulgar-anvilitalian-style I've owned this for a few years but I never got around to using it as much as I should have. Its in good condition, no cracking or real dents though I did dress most of the edges already with a slight radius and there were a few light errant blows from a careful but unskilled smith. I didn't want to sell it but I'm moving to Germany then Switzerland and taking up serious mountaineering for the next couple decades. I just won't have the spare time or energy for the hobby until I settle down, and trying to bring an anvil with me makes no sense. I'm in Arizona near Chandler if there is anyone interested. I paid $900 to have it shipped to me, so I'd ask $450 or best offer since it is used but still in great working condition.
  2. I was thinking high hundreds range. I basically want it to come as a letter opener / stage knife. Almost as blunt as a butter knife and no more dangerous than a ballpoint pen. Its not meant to be used really.
  3. And here is a redesign immediately after posting, should be much easier to fit this way. Peened or threaded tan. It would be very cool if the pommel threaded on and off.
  4. (Please let me know if this post isn't appropriate) Hello everyone! I know its been a while, I had to put the tools away for now. I'm glad to see some familiar faces from years back. I recently came across some old papers and I found one of my favorite designs that I drew as a wild 16 year old. I read a lot of fantasy books and watched a lot of youtube as a kid and I wanted to make some stuff. I did forge some knives here and there and I made some blades I'm proud of. I never mastered the craft and now I've gone to trade school and learned how to machine. Meanwhile I'm working over the summer travelling all over the country. I think I've slept in hotels more than my own bed this year! The knife I designed is in no way meant to be practical, its purely decorative and I don't want it even fully sharpened (Though I do want it heat treated so I could sharpen it) . I'm going to be moving to another country this November and I wanted to bring a nice gift with me. I thought it would be a great gift I want to make sure I am paying decently well for a well made knife, and I've done the effort of running a business. I know it won't be cheap. The materials are my preference but are not set in stone, For example it could be bone or antler or another exotic wood instead of Ivory. Wrought iron instead of brass, something instead of bloodwood etc. The design is also flexible somewhat if you guys don't think the doubled over guard is feasible.
  5. Don't feel embarrased, just forge the blade a little oversized and grind/file down to the exact shape. I look at forging as getting the shape 90%, that last 10% will take ten times longer if you want to get the blade to the exact shape. I always marvel at the people that make knives with the "as forged" finish on the spine, I guess that sort of precision with the hammer comes around the 1000 hour+ mark I always think I forged way too thin, only to find out I have to grind off a ton of metal. It must be a learned behavior from the few times I did forge too thin and left a gap in the tang.
  6. I know I'm a little late to the party, but I just wanted to say that you are light years ahead of a lot of people starting. You have the right mindset. You will make the first knife good enough to carry with pride, which is a lot more than I could say for most of the knives I have made yet. A few ideas that you may benefit from: -Don't let the idea of making a 'perfect' knife stop you from making dozens of really good knives. I had to look back and realize that I was whining that my work wasn't as good as I wanted, when I had finished less than two dozen knives in several years. If I had just grit my teeth and finished one or two a week I'd be way ahead right now. -Get the best tools you can afford as soon as you have the real use of them. Some tools will really make the process 10x faster and the result much better. What I mean by that is that as soon as you see a bottlekneck in your process find a way to make it better faster. At the same time don't go crazy and spend tons of money if you are only making one knife a week. The last idea is for designing a handle, get a hold of some clay, roll it into a one inch round cylinder then squeeze it in your hand to see what shape it makes, then find a way to work that sort of shape in a pleasing design.
  7. You sure wouldn't want to see my third knife, come to think of it I remember slicing some fingers pretty good trying to drill pin holes after sharpening the blade . It seems like you have a better grasp already. I know that handle will work well because I was playing with clay trying to design a better handle, and that is roughly the shape that comes out when you squeeze a ball of clay.
  8. Thanks, must have had the wrong link. I went ahead and started making a knife today, went pretty quick though I must have lost callous privilege because drawing out gave me a good little blister. 1/8 inch thick, about 6 inches overall. I triple normalized and quenched in water. Must have been all of the prayers or something because the heat treat went perfectly it seems. Tempering now at 400F. It is so much smaller than what I usually end up making, but I can already tell that it is going to be the best knife I have made yet. Edit: here is another picture that better shows the profile.
  9. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=disability+kitchen+knives&rlz=1C1OPRA_enGB578GB579&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWseK42afKAhVH0RQKHcLTCNIQ_AUIBygB&biw=1242&bih=585#imgrc=i0ZAUnlNXVTuDM: I recently came across this while looking for inspiration, sound similar to what you are thinking of, I think it works because instead of using the fingers for strength, you are pushing with the palm, so the fingers are just holding the knife steady. Instead of a wrist movement using a knife as a whole arm, almost 'punching move'. Having the blade in front of the handle would be good because of eliminating leverage. I have never used or even seen a knife like that before, so I am interested in seeing what you come up with. I guess just keep the cutting edge close to in line with the hand.
  10. I drew another, even smaller this time at under 6" overall, 2.5 inch blade and only about 3/4" wide. (150 mm long, 20 mm wide). I really like how it looks, plus with such a small and thin blade it should be relatively quick to pull off. I am going to try both scandi and full flat on this one. I may or may not make the first design, it depends on how I feel after finishing the top one.
  11. I really like the look, really crisp lines!
  12. Anecdote: I made exactly one rr spike knife (out of having over 100 rail road spikes at one point), I quenched it in cold brine and I was able to do a 2x4 chop test with it. I left the handle area square though so it gave me blisters. I leave it out by the forge to cut open bags of coal and charcoal as I need to.
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