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Stephen Asay

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About Stephen Asay

  • Birthday 07/03/1997

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Clemson SC, (Currently Seattle WA)
  • Interests
    God, Family, Country, That spattered look of a blade right after a good quench, A job well done.
  1. Stephen Asay

    Wip: Kephart Inspired Hunter

    Here is today's progress, it is ending up with more of a spear point, I don't know if it would look better with a more straight drop point. Overall I am pleased with the scandi grind, it is really flat and is about 20 degrees, still a couple of mm on edge for the heat treating, which I have to wait for until I get my cobalt drill bits in the mail for pin holes.
  2. Stephen Asay

    Wip: Kephart Inspired Hunter

    Thanks! Yeah, I might grind down to about 1/32 edge thickness before the HT. It would be really cool to see some hamon activity, but the goal is just to end up with a nice, hard use knife.
  3. Stephen Asay

    Wip: Kephart Inspired Hunter

    Hello everyone, I just got started with my first knife in over two years, a friend of mine saw my facebook post on the tongs I made for bladesmithing and he commented he'll take a kephart styled with a scandi grind. I had never heard of them before to be honest. I drew up a design based off an article with pictures, and got through forging. The material is 1075 high carbon steel. Because it is going to be a scandi style grind I did not forge any bevels, but as it stands right now the entire blade is about 5/32 thick, going to be grinding to about 1/8". Should I do the entire primary bevel after heat treating, or should I do some before?.
  4. Stephen Asay

    Massive picture post: whole lotta forged blades

    Wow, I really could see any of those being carried with pride by professionals in rough environments! A no frills, not afraid to be used- line of knives for sure!
  5. Stephen Asay

    Yakut knives

    That is really cool, I am noticing how clean and neat that leather working is! I like the look of those blades too, really cool style.
  6. Stephen Asay

    Reforging an old Scythe?

    Thanks, Sadly Alan was right, As I tried to forge the blade it became apparent that cracks ran an inch deep along a lot of the blade. I might try getting my hands on some 1045 and forging one someday.
  7. Stephen Asay

    Reforging an old Scythe?

    I have been working on "restoring" an old rusty scythe we picked up from an antique store for $20. It was still fairly sharp, so I don't think that it was abused in it's day. It does however get pretty thick in the middle from being sharpened steeply, there is a bevel on both sides of the blade, steep enough in the middle to be an axe grind. I in my eagerness to sharpen it began tapping it cold, but I guess that it is not that type of scythe, because I took a nice little chip out of it right in the middle. Everything else about the tool seems to fit nice, I just need to know how I should get a usable edge on it. I am thinking about heating it up in the forge, cross peening out the edge a little, then re-normalizing. Should I try to heat treat it? Was it ever a work hardening scythe meant to be peened, or just ground with stones? Any input would be appreciated, thanks.\
  8. Stephen Asay

    Rail clip tanto, first attempt with this steel.

    I used one that was literally stamped "5160" if I recall correctly. It seemed to be relatively new, I picked it up while hiking in northern CA. Never got around to finishing / heat treating it though, I tried making a chefs's knife with a integral bolster (I think that is what you call it?) Anyway, nice job, it looks great!
  9. Stephen Asay

    White Balance

    I guess the idea is that the white balance will always be the same, so you could have a preset balance that will always look consistent.
  10. Stephen Asay

    White Balance

    (I am a photographer noob) I always resorted to just using all manual settings, setting white balance, exposure, iso, f-stop based on the picture I was taking.
  11. Stephen Asay

    Possible anvil goldmine

    So just as a follow up, I did pay a visit to Osteen's. He does still have anvils, post vices, tongs, and other blacksmith tools, he even has hand crank drill presses, and wood stoves. He also has blacksmith coal, pea sized bituminous coal. When I was there is was $12 for a 40lbs bag so I got two. I will be going back to get more soon! I highly recommend paying a visit if you are ever in the area, really cool place! I ended up getting a pretty good deal on this vice:
  12. I NEVER have enough books, Anvilfire has a half dozen that I 'need' to read just to get started, and based on the quality of that tutorial I should find those books by Mark. I was just thinking too how I could really use a good book about what tools to make and when to start. I was gifted a book by JPH from my family when I first wanted to get into bladesmithing, and I read half of Verhoeven's a long time ago. Basically it seems like I should spend more time reading right now than actually forging.
  13. I just found this: https://smallfarmersjournal.com/box-jaw-tongs-the-cow-poop-theory-of-blacksmithing/
  14. Thanks, I did bury the end of the stump about 6 inches deep, no sign of moving even after pounding 1 inch 4140. I am actually fine with the ring it makes, it is very high pitched so the noise does not go through walls very much. Probably because of the solidness. The pictures don’t look like it but the sides of the anvil actually stay straight all the way down, so the corners are totally grounded. Now just to start making tongs and anything else I need to really get started! I am still undecided on wether I will smooth out the horn. it depends on how much it effects my work.
  15. Pictures as promised: There doesn't seem to be a lot of documentation on these anvils, at least what I could find. It has good rebound, works great. It is not so hard that hammers will not dent it if you really try, though some of my missed blows today almost sent the hammer back into my face :). Shipped through UPS, weight listed was 114lbs, or 50kg. All it was packaged in was some shrink wrap arund the horns and face. So here it is the "Old World Anvils Bulgar #50"