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Stephen Asay

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Everything posted by Stephen Asay

  1. Don't feel embarrased, just forge the blade a little oversized and grind/file down to the exact shape. I look at forging as getting the shape 90%, that last 10% will take ten times longer if you want to get the blade to the exact shape. I always marvel at the people that make knives with the "as forged" finish on the spine, I guess that sort of precision with the hammer comes around the 1000 hour+ mark I always think I forged way too thin, only to find out I have to grind off a ton of metal. It must be a learned behavior from the few times I did forge too thin and left a gap in the tang.
  2. I know I'm a little late to the party, but I just wanted to say that you are light years ahead of a lot of people starting. You have the right mindset. You will make the first knife good enough to carry with pride, which is a lot more than I could say for most of the knives I have made yet. A few ideas that you may benefit from: -Don't let the idea of making a 'perfect' knife stop you from making dozens of really good knives. I had to look back and realize that I was whining that my work wasn't as good as I wanted, when I had finished less than two dozen knives in several year
  3. You sure wouldn't want to see my third knife, come to think of it I remember slicing some fingers pretty good trying to drill pin holes after sharpening the blade . It seems like you have a better grasp already. I know that handle will work well because I was playing with clay trying to design a better handle, and that is roughly the shape that comes out when you squeeze a ball of clay.
  4. Thanks, must have had the wrong link. I went ahead and started making a knife today, went pretty quick though I must have lost callous privilege because drawing out gave me a good little blister. 1/8 inch thick, about 6 inches overall. I triple normalized and quenched in water. Must have been all of the prayers or something because the heat treat went perfectly it seems. Tempering now at 400F. It is so much smaller than what I usually end up making, but I can already tell that it is going to be the best knife I have made yet. Edit: here is another picture that better s
  5. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=disability+kitchen+knives&rlz=1C1OPRA_enGB578GB579&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWseK42afKAhVH0RQKHcLTCNIQ_AUIBygB&biw=1242&bih=585#imgrc=i0ZAUnlNXVTuDM: I recently came across this while looking for inspiration, sound similar to what you are thinking of, I think it works because instead of using the fingers for strength, you are pushing with the palm, so the fingers are just holding the knife steady. Instead of a wrist movement using a knife as a whole arm, almost 'punching move'. Having the blade in front of the handl
  6. I drew another, even smaller this time at under 6" overall, 2.5 inch blade and only about 3/4" wide. (150 mm long, 20 mm wide). I really like how it looks, plus with such a small and thin blade it should be relatively quick to pull off. I am going to try both scandi and full flat on this one. I may or may not make the first design, it depends on how I feel after finishing the top one.
  7. I really like the look, really crisp lines!
  8. Anecdote: I made exactly one rr spike knife (out of having over 100 rail road spikes at one point), I quenched it in cold brine and I was able to do a 2x4 chop test with it. I left the handle area square though so it gave me blisters. I leave it out by the forge to cut open bags of coal and charcoal as I need to.
  9. I really like that handle shape, you really pull it off! It sure looks like a good grip and comfortable to use!
  10. Well, Thanks so much for all of the replies, I don't feel so helpless anymore! Anyway, I decided to make a new design. I started with a lump of clay, I squeezed it in my hand to get an idea of a more natural shape handle, because to be honest all my knife handles to date are a little beyond saving. I also did some google image-fu and found some aspects I liked in other blades. I never want to plagiarize so I made sure that I made the design my own. Thinking about the use case of these knives, the blade is a lot shorter, and the handle was trimmed down too. If you need a longer blade
  11. Thanks. The patina is mustard, didsn't quite turn out like the pro's though. Heat treatment is a real pain right now, it is mostly what is keeping me from making more blades. I see what you mean by the grind and palm swell.
  12. So I am here waiting at the hospital (my dad is having some stones pulled). I wasn't going to post this one but I decided to get some opinions on it. The idea was to make a nice practical EDC knife, and technically it works, it is a little big, as in too big for me to want to carry it all of the time. I like how the handle turned out, but overall it is not a very pleasing shape. Practically it works great, it is just a bit... ugly. I want to get the concept of a user knife down, and I want it to not just work good, but also look good. This, well it doesn't really look like anything,
  13. That's gorgeous! Too nice to not use .
  14. I am honestly most impressed with how nice that handle looks, I tried to work black palm once and I said never again. I really like it, looks like a joy to use for sure!
  15. Thanks! Yeah I decided to go with about 10 degrees on each side figuring my setup was not too precise. I am really liking the utility of the blade, much better for working in the yard than a convex or full flat grind.
  16. Thanks, yeah I am also probably going to try building my own kiln at some point. I am worried that this blade and the one other I heat treated are way oversize on grain because of the unknown factor. The other blade I did has a little warp in the tang, I will try to bend it a little more straight, and if it breaks then we will know for sure. I wouldn't feel good selling a knife at handmade prices if it does not perform at least better than a $30 factory knife. Anyway, here are some finished pictures: Blade: 1075, 4.5" long, 1/8" thick, 20 degree scandi grind polis
  17. I initially put a handle on it with no epoxy to test the blade. was staying sharp but chipping too easy against hard things. I tried the brass Rod test, was chipping about .25 mm off of the edge (initial temper was only 1 hour at 375) . The hardening was done in water, I was not getting a good harden in oil. Since making this I have forged several more, one of which snapped in the water quench and warped like crazy, so I am making sure to leave the blades a little thick going into the HT. Today I got around to tempering it again (an hour at 425) Now the edge flexes instead of chipping, if
  18. Here is today's progress, it is ending up with more of a spear point, I don't know if it would look better with a more straight drop point. Overall I am pleased with the scandi grind, it is really flat and is about 20 degrees, still a couple of mm on edge for the heat treating, which I have to wait for until I get my cobalt drill bits in the mail for pin holes.
  19. Thanks! Yeah, I might grind down to about 1/32 edge thickness before the HT. It would be really cool to see some hamon activity, but the goal is just to end up with a nice, hard use knife.
  20. Hello everyone, I just got started with my first knife in over two years, a friend of mine saw my facebook post on the tongs I made for bladesmithing and he commented he'll take a kephart styled with a scandi grind. I had never heard of them before to be honest. I drew up a design based off an article with pictures, and got through forging. The material is 1075 high carbon steel. Because it is going to be a scandi style grind I did not forge any bevels, but as it stands right now the entire blade is about 5/32 thick, going to be grinding to about 1/8". Should I do the entire primary bevel afte
  21. Wow, I really could see any of those being carried with pride by professionals in rough environments! A no frills, not afraid to be used- line of knives for sure!
  22. That is really cool, I am noticing how clean and neat that leather working is! I like the look of those blades too, really cool style.
  23. Thanks, Sadly Alan was right, As I tried to forge the blade it became apparent that cracks ran an inch deep along a lot of the blade. I might try getting my hands on some 1045 and forging one someday.
  24. I have been working on "restoring" an old rusty scythe we picked up from an antique store for $20. It was still fairly sharp, so I don't think that it was abused in it's day. It does however get pretty thick in the middle from being sharpened steeply, there is a bevel on both sides of the blade, steep enough in the middle to be an axe grind. I in my eagerness to sharpen it began tapping it cold, but I guess that it is not that type of scythe, because I took a nice little chip out of it right in the middle. Everything else about the tool seems to fit nice, I just need to know how I should get a
  25. I used one that was literally stamped "5160" if I recall correctly. It seemed to be relatively new, I picked it up while hiking in northern CA. Never got around to finishing / heat treating it though, I tried making a chefs's knife with a integral bolster (I think that is what you call it?) Anyway, nice job, it looks great!
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