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alan macdougall

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    North East Scotland
  • Interests
    making things, welding, fishing, motorcycling, mountain biking.

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  1. nice build. ive done some more research and im currently converting the sayber grinder plans to metric. my brothers work has a water jet cutter, so we will, errr, borrow it for an hour or two soon. thanks
  2. Hello, i was last on here a couple of years ago. i started making a 2 x 72, then life got in the way. Anyway im looking at my large pile of steel and fancying another shot at it. My last post answered a lot of questions on motors/vfd etc so im pretty happy with that but im not sure about motor mounting, as i am thinking about making the grinder tiltable. I think it would be a big benefit. The last one i started , i wasnt really happy with it to be honest so im starting over.......The side plates i have are 14 inches by 12, not sure if they are big enough for side mounted motor?? So the motor, i see i have a couple of choices for mounting it. either 90L floor mount on a plate, and make the whole base tiltable, probably on a hinge, or mounted to the body of the grinder. Is there any prefference to which is best, and why please? Thanks for your help.
  3. Thanks Alan, ive upped the holes to 7mm for a m8 tap. Unfortunately my cheapo tap holder decided to strip its threads on me, so ive been using the drill press and just manually turning the chuck with the tap fitted, to thread the holes. Its time consuming, but cheaper than buying another tap wrench. ive also shortened the main body of the grinder to 300mm or 12 inches, from 400mm or 18 inches it was just too long, but I never thought to check the belt length against it. I got the shouldered bolts to fit the wheels today and after measuring roughly where the belt would go, decided that shortening the main body was needed and has made it look much more in proportion. im also contemplating re-doing the tensioning wheel arm and adjuster for something lighter. Its inch and a half square solid bar, but I think 1/2 inch plate would possibly be more than stiff enough About the tensioning plate for the top tensioner wheel. Am I correct thinking it shouldn't have any sideways play, other than just clearance
  4. there is something to see. Its starting to take shape now. ive got some wheels too but am waiting for the shouldered bolts to fix them. its a beast and weighs a ton, but it will be zero flex id say. its obviously not finished and I will be hacking more lumps of steel off it to lighten it a bit, but the basics are there. Couple of questions? do you think m6 bolts will do to hold the box framework together? And platen. im making the platen detachable, with a fixing top and bottom (platen plate will fix to 10mm thick angle. do you think the heat differencial will cause the platen to bend? im thinking not because I don't think it will get anywhere near hot enough, but value your opinions. ive also cut out roughly a couple of blanks. feel free to critique.
  5. thanks Alan. Thanks for clearing that up. . Do you have any opinions on the density of the insulfrax , the pipe fittings and the other stuff mentioned in my first post .? thank you.
  6. this is as far as I got yesterday, lots to do. im wondering about the hole at the back, I see some with this hole and some without. What is it for? just to add air?
  7. hello, im making a small propane bottle forge, and have a list of parts needed for this. I understand that galvanised pipework and reducers etc are not suitable, and am looking for black steel fittings, here in the uk. im also aware that the galv stuff is usable after a vinegar soak for a few days. Can I ask what these fittings, and pipework are original meant for, to help me track them down? is it for industrial gas systems or? im also looking at ceramic insulating wool blanket type stuff to line the bottle with. ive come across a product called insulfrax, which looks good, it doesn't have any of the health issues of ceramic wool . I t comes in a number of densities, tho, these being 64, 97, 128 and kg.m3 heres a link to the spec. what density should I be looking for.? I thought either the 126 or 160? Any opinions. I think 50mm thickness should be ok? again, opinions? oh and while im here, im looking to put the burners into the bottle at around 3 o clock position, and want a swirling pattern but should I aim them at the top part of the inside, the middle or the bottom? or does it not really matter that much? ive a tendency to over think stuff. Apologies for my lack of knowledge, but hopefully someone can keep me right. thanks.
  8. Thanks. I have made a start on this and have roughed out the shape of the aluminium platen plate, while I wait on the steel delivery to land. im waiting on delivery of a bench drill. its a Meddings, its an old English make, very solid and accurate, and about 3 times the weight of the modern Chinese garbage, This thing will easily outlast me, and its accuracy will help with all the drilling and tapping im gonna have to do. im also going with the proper 3 phase motor and invertek VFD. Life is too short, the Chinese alternative wouldn't last very long, and its only money right. I will post some updates when there is something to see.
  9. it looks really solidly built, how is the gas strut for tensioning ?
  10. Thanks Alan, I was considering a 2nd tooling arm which I could keep for a couple of uses, one being for a (detachable mount) contact wheel, and another being a detachable mount smaller wheel (say 20 or 30mm dia. ) for grinding out for fore finger quillons and smaller radius fullers etc. Any ideas on the small wheel diameter which would prove to be the most useful, as im only going off the radius of my fat fingers? My older bro is coming over tonight, to help out the design part, as he is a "proper" engineer, having served his time in a traditional foundry/ coppersmiths, before going on to design and draw, and project manage all sorts of fabrication works, stuff including complete distilleries, whisky stills, condensors, all manner of stainless pipework worldwide, for both the distillation, oil & gas industries etc. He has probably forgotten more than I will ever know about fabrication, so he might come up with some good ideas, I hope. im also tempted to just copy the new KMG tiltable table grinder, it would take a lot of my guess work out of it. I like the idea of the ratchet stop, and it doesn't look like it would be hard to achieve, if I could find a supplier of ratchet wheels, or steal one from another machine. I will rejig my design a bit i think, im not entirely happy with the tensioning wheel arm part of the design, so it will change I think. Thanks again for your help Alan.
  11. cool, thanks Alan, I will stick with the 2nd arm. its a steep learning curve, but you guys who use these machines all the time will know what works, what can be improved and whats not worth bothering about, I will keep the 2nd tooling arm. I was also planning a small wheel attachment eventually and possibly a contact wheel too, but I will start with the basics. I can get the materials ordered tomorrow or Friday, im itching to get started. thanks for your help, I really appreciate your input. is there any part of my design that you think could be improved upon, given your experience, or do you think its good to go, if I change out the strut for a spring.
  12. good to know I can save some cash on the tooling bars. I had nothing to go on for the sizes, so thanks for that, the rest can be scaled down to suit. im a bit stuck between the separate tooling arm for the rest or just attaching it to the tooling arm which is connected to the platen. im thinking if its mounted on a separate tooling arm, there is more room for movement or deflection. any opinions on this . I see kmg don't bother with a separate arm, and it would save some bucks.
  13. here is the first of possibly many designs, let me know what you think. the pic has kinda cut off the dimensions for the side plates and top middle and bottom plates which hold the tooling arm, but its side plates are 400mm by 130mm by 10mm, the top middle and bottom will be 51 or 52mm to allow the solid alu bar to slide in and out. The alu bars will be held in place by 2 No m12 lever handles per bar. The 380mm length on the platen support frame, or whatever its called is just because I have a scrap piece of 10mm thick aluminium. Apologies for the metric measurements to our American friends, but basically the tooling bars will be 2 inch square as will the upright supports and the 10mm base plate is between 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick, motor will be direct drive, run off a vfd. when I can afford it. All criticism accepted as constructive, so fire away.
  14. Thanks for the replies, but im going to go ahead and build this. I will make the majority of the frame, and will just wait til I have the spare cash for a proper VFD and motor. The final design is a concoction of various designs ive seen while watching about 186 youtube videos on both diy grinders and manufactured ones. Now since I have zero experience of using these things, I would like to ask a couple more questions if I can. For those who have used these in anger as it were. The detachable post which holds the platen. Would I be right in thinking that this would be better if it was made from solid steel bar, rather than box section. Im just thinking about the tapping of bolts for the platen attachment and tool rest etc. There would be less lateral movement in solid bar, at the expense of weight. ? I suppose solid aluminium would be an option,... or would it? I am also thinking about the main horizontal section which holds the extendable section for the platen tool rest etc. I have seen a lot of these built with box section within box section like telescoping, but it looks a bit sloppy. I think it would provide better fit and less clearance issues if this part was made from plates to the sides, with tapped bolt holes through to horizontal plates, like the KMG, for example. Any opinions on this? good or bad idea? I also want some opinions on the top wheel post. Most of the diy builds seem to use a spring within the box section to tension the upper detatchable part, which doesn't look all that, and I would imagine it could introduce bounce in the belt (maybe im wrong) and some of the manufactured ones preffer a separate arm hinged off the top with an extension which is counter balanced with a spring attached to the post. The second option seems like a better option to me, but again, Any preference? Im also considering the option of making the grinder tilt-able, from vertical to horizontal. If you had the choice, would you incorporate this feature, or not? so many questions, but I just don't want to build this, and in 6 months time, think " I wish I had done x,y, or Z instead. I would be most grateful for your input with this. thanks in advance, I hope.
  15. Thanks Wayne, ive had a look at the motors, but unfortunately, im trying to do this on a budget, to see if knife making is for me, and I think the postage on a heavy motor and customs tax etc would rule it out, but thanks for linking me to your site, I really enjoyed looking at your forging art, its excellent. timgunn, thank you for making this subject much easier to understand, I appreciate your knowledgable answer, and have sent you a message about the motor and a question regarding cheaper vfd's.
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