Doug Webster

I don't have a belt grinder. I'm annealing to make it easier to hand file and sand to 320 grit. Soaking at 1100 to 1200 F helped but it was still pretty hard. If I try this again, I might pack the tube with vermiculite.

I have always had difficulty annealing blades and the 52100 is really difficult. I set a 3" pipe inside the forge and on a low fire can hold it at sub critical heat. I'll try annealing for an hour and see if this helps? Open to any suggestions.

Thank you Francis. Jim and Ford would be pleased with your progress. Maybe our paths will cross some day. Until then keep on making cool stuff!

Really nice craftsmanship Francis. I find the best work like this calms the spirit. If you don't mind me asking... Did you water or oil quench? What are you using in place of pine rosin for holding your furniture during inlay work? Where is your work shop and what brought you to the journey of bladesmithing?

Here's the direction I am thinking of going

Nice creative ideas coming to life here. Inspired me to make a little more progress on the ball bearing project

WOW, That is just perfect in every way. I hope you kept it.

Alan I also started by making nails. It is a challenge that I still have not mastered. Here's my first nail. Some day I will be a blacksmith....

I have been following your work and honestly have nothing to say other than I'm speechless.

If you are trying to create a textured surface with some topography, I have had good success etching with muriatic acid after forging to shape. Just keep a close eye on the piece so you don't etch too deep.

Here's a wagon wheel wrought iron tsuba I have been adding copper sekigane like David J and others have shown before. Teeth are filed into the Tsuba notches to hold the annealed copper sekigane. Hammer blows to forge fit the copper bits without any solder.

Thanks everyone for the positive mojo! From what I've been told, the WI was a 20' long tension rod used to support a wooden floor truss. I forgot to mention that I was using a stainless steel hose clamp to hold tension on the edge while forging to 2". Then I used a 2" steel ring and kept the piece fluxed and at welding heat like Alan mentioned.

Here's the Tsuba mounted.

Second attempt I used a steel ring to hold pressure on the exterior edge and gentle hammer blows. After forging out to 4mm x 72mm, I removed the ring and created a raised edge and peened finish with light hammer work.

My first attempt was a disaster