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Aaron Gouge

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  • Location
    Quito, Ecuador
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, camping and knife making

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  1. Temper color after 1 two hour temper at 455F.
  2. Thank Jake for chiming in. Would you say one 2 hour cycle at 450? I would include a pice of the cupón as well to see how it dose after one temper cycle. Aaron
  3. Thanks billyO. We actually had a pan full of potatoes, carrots and chicken in the oven with the nife for the second temper cycle. But I will keep that in mind for the future.
  4. Alan that makes sense. Yes I am familiar with the brass rod test. So I guess I will continue on with grinding the blade. If it seems to brittle on the brass rod back to the oven. If it goes back to the oven I will try to find a better thermometer. Should I try 1 more 2 hour cycle at 400? Aaron
  5. Thanks Alex and Alan! So the oven just has a knob dial in Celsius. I do have a thermometer in the oven but it’s not the best quality... it was reading at 400F. The knob was set at about 240c witch should be 460F but this oven dose not reach as hot as the knob says it dose. It takes longer to cook things than it should. Some of that is from being at 9,000” above sea leave thought. Should I try to find another oven thermometer before I do much grinding to double check? Or do I move forward with grinding and try the brass rod test like Alex suggested? Aaron
  6. Good morning. So I finally have a forging are set up here in Ecuador!! Before we moved down here I was mostly using leaf spring steel for my knives with good success. Yet thier was a Bohler steel supply store right around the corner from where we are living at the the moment. The only steel they have available that makes a good knife is O1 so I bought some 3/4” round bar to try out. I did lots of reading on the form about forging, heat treat and tempering. I forged out a blade as well as a 3” sample cupón the same thickness as the blade, roughly 3/16”. Judging color and using a magnet I thermal cycled both three times and quenched in warm canola oil. No I did not try to soak the steel for any amount of time. I did a 2 two hours temper cycle at 400 in kitchen stove. After temper I clamped my sample coupon in a vice and hit it three times with a 2lb hammer. They weren’t hard hits and the coupon broke. Then I re clamped the coupon in the vise and tried bending it. It only bent a couple of degrees before it snapped. So my thoughts are with a shorter piece like this it will flex less before it will break t try gab a longer piece. Still it seemed like it was very brittle. So I guess my question is how do I move forward from here? It seems like the steel is still extremely brittle. Do I finish grinding the edge and sharpen the blade then test the edge strength? Or do I just go ahead and throw it back in the oven for a higher temperature cycle? Thanks for any insight. Aaron
  7. Thanks again Alan! I appreciate it. Just to clarify I can just use the one type of brazing rod(Sil-Fos)? My folks are coming down in about a month for a visit so I am working on a list of things we cannot find here in Ecuador for my dad to pick up for me! I’ll try and post some pics when I’m done. I might be back with more questions depending on how it goes :-)
  8. So funny thing, within our first month down here I stumbled on a blacksmith shop! I was in a market trying to acquaint myself with furniture prices. The back wall and a side wall were all small metal fab shops. In the middle of all these shops is a blacksmith shop!! Anyways I have been down their three times just to talk with them and hang out. They have two anvils that they are using and another 4-5 stashed in various parts of the shop! He also has 4 post vises witch I have been told were only brought into Ecuador shortly after the WW2. He won’t sell any of the anvils or post vises! Wants to open a blacksmith museum after he is to old to work! I’ve not seen a makers mark on the anvils yet but have not inspected them either. The man in the blue is the shop owner.
  9. Here is a soldering question related to the scabbard throat. So if I make a cylinder of brass from flat stock it will have a vertical seam. It also will need a cap soldered on. My understanding is I can’t do this in 2 soldering heats because I will melt the solder out of the first seam while doing the second. So if I set my pieces up like the pic ( except my pic showed up sideways, so it should be the cylinder setting vertically on the cap) can I weld all seams in one go? Can I flow solder/braze into the vertical seam without it just draining down onto the cap plate?
  10. Thank you Alan! This is very helpful! The Sil-Fos will have enough strength in this application? Would you say that on small sheet pieces for a chape I can use a Brenzsomatic TS8000 with the Sil-Fos? The TS8000 is listed for brazing and is said to have a output of 3500F, if I have correctly understood. It would seem more than adequate? Thank again Aaron
  11. I know its been close to a year since this thread was started but life has been busy. I wanted to give a quick update for those of you who took time to respond to my post. We have been in Ecuador for a little over 6 months now. It has been great. It took me about 4 months to set up a forging area. So I ended up not going with a 105LB anvil. I actually brought down a 70lb anvil that weighted in at 71.5lb at the air port but they let it pass! So I have been super pleased with the choice not to try and cut then repair a larger anvil. Thank you all for your feed back. Aaron
  12. Hey all, So over the past year I have been working a scottish dirk. It has been one of those back burner projects. I am close to finally having the drink done and am looking forward to starting the scabbard. So I have pretty much no soldering experience! :-) Looking for some help. I have read many tutorials on this site related on soldering as we'll as watched many videos. Now I need some practice. But I have a couple questions. 1- What solder to use? I know many like Stay-Brite 2- Is silver solder adequate for a chape and throat or do i need to silver braze them? Somethings like the SSF-6? 3- Any tips on brass thickness or other tips on scabbard fittings? FYI my plan is to make the chape out of two pieces and solder the seams together, so a piece for the front and the back of the scabbard and solderd along the edges. Thank you Aaron
  13. Cody, thanks for passing on the info on the Atlas anvil. I use his minny forge, it’s been great! I will keep it in mind. Daniel I am not thrilled with the idea of cutting the Scott anvil. I know it is above my skill level of welding to put it back together. I would take it to a fab shop in Ecuador. Aaron
  14. Hey Zeb, my plan has been to buy a 77lb Kanca Anvil to take down. But then this Scott anvil was made available for me to take. Trimming the toes and horn a bit might do it. All the reading I’ve done so far is that welding ductile is questionable.
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