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Aaron Gouge

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Aaron Gouge last won the day on July 7 2020

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    Danville, Kentucky
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    Hunting, fishing, camping and knife making

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  1. Well it’s finally finished!
  2. It did make the carbon steel darker! Witch is what I wanted yet the wrought is a little darker than I had hoped. But unlike Damascus I can’t sand the wrought back to make it shiny! I guess I can’t have it all!! Joël this one went in my favor! Yet my try at a canoe San Mai was as close to a failure as one can get!! LOL!
  3. Thanks for jumping in Joël! I did put it into instant coffee for about 2 1/2 hours yesterday evening. It did darken everything. Especially the carbon steel. Not a lot of change on the wrought iron. Now all it needs is to stain the elk antler, install the wrought iron but cap and final sharpening!
  4. Thanks Alan!! Maybe some one else will jump in with words of wisdom!;-)
  5. So, do any of you do a final etch in coffee with the wrought iron? I have done my final etch but I would like the carbon steel to be a little bit darker for a better contract. With standard Damascus blades I would sand back with 1500 grit to polish the height layers. In the past I’ve not done this with the wrought iron? So I guess all of this points to if I did a coffee etch would it also really dark in the wrought iron. If it darkened the wrought iron wood I sand it back to a high polish? Thanks
  6. So good news and bad news and more good! So the first knife I started on did not make it! By the time I finished grinding the bevels I was suspicious of the now only butt weld between the wrought and Damascus. I started flexing the blade in the middle. Holding the wrought iron in one hand and the carbon steel in the other. Sure enough only the last half inch on each side was really welded together. So I clamped the spine of the knife in the post vice and after a couple of bends was able to rip the Damascus bit off of it! Was pretty put out!! Disgusted!!! So I went back to forging on my second billet. Finished forging to shape, quenched and into the oven for temper. I still lost a little more of the wrought than I had hoped but it was a improvement over the last one. So success! While it was tempering I got to stewing on the Damascus bit from the broken knife. Eureka!! I will turn it into a pearing knife!! The handle is just a mock up. I will use some Curley mango with nickel silver curby bolts.
  7. Well I seem to of completely ground out the crack. Ground about 5/8 off the edge! It’s still not pretty but I hat to scrap it after so much work. At some point I will finish it. Last night I also welded up a San mai bar. 1.5”x4”x 13/16. I let it sit in the forge at welding heat for a good 5 min after welding. Ground the edges clean this morning. It looks good at this point!
  8. I have to start another one for the clients anyways because this isn’t going to fit his criteria‘s enough. But at least it can be a blade I use!
  9. I may be a little ticked off at it!! LOL!! Is it reasonable to grind a half in off the edge to see if I can remove it? This point it only seems to go about a half inch chin. Is that reasonable? I’ve never had one crack like this so I’m a little unsure of what to expect.
  10. Ran the blade out to the grinder to clean it up a little bit before work this morning. Things look pretty good where the Damascus meets the wrought iron! But what doesn’t look good is the half inch long hairline crack that starts in the edge and runs towards the spine right in the middle of the blade!
  11. John and Alan, This is all super helpful! Thank you thank you thank you! John, what size billet are you starting with? Length and width? So I took it back to the belt grinder and cleaned up the profile. I also thinned it down a little bit. It has been quenched and seems to have survived. I have it tempering in the oven.
  12. hey Alan, I had planned on doing the San Mai originally but then decided to go this route. I think it started this year during the drying out. I think they were a couple heats where I worked it a little too cold…. Or maybe both. I hot cut the tip in to make sure I had the carbon steel at the point. Any thoughts on edge quenching this one verse a full quench?
  13. John, that s very helpful!! Thank you for taking the time to type all that out! So I had already started my process before John chimed in. Here’s where I’m at. I decided to start with a low layer Damascus twist pattern bar as my core. That way if I washed off a lot of the wrought I would at least have some thing of interest. I went old school and actually hot slotted a rectangle of wrought iron. Maybe a little ambitious. Inserted my Damascus bit and forge welded it in. The more I started drawing it out the more delamination I was seeing. One side forged welded really nice, the other side for some reason did not. Because of the amount of delams I decided to stop where I was at and see if I could salvage it. It’s not the shape I was going for but if I could salvage it I wanted to. I still need to do more grinding on it but I wanted to at least see what I had. I did a light etch last night. I hope to try a quench later in the week to see if it survives. Some of the delames on the worst side reach clear up where the Damascus bit meets the rod iron… I’m always learning and wanted to push myself a little more on this one. I think stacking three layers of steel and tack welding it would’ve been a much safer enterprise. It may end up in the garbage bin or it may end up as a knife I keep because of the flaws. It probably won’t fit the clients expectation so will more than likely starting on another knife.
  14. Gilbert, that is super helpful. I most likely will be using 1080, 1084 or 80CRV2 for my core or bit. Any feedback on the use of the 80CRV2 versus the 1080 serris?
  15. Emiliano, Those are some great looking knife! So for clarification. Are you slotting your wrought iron and inserting a carbon bit? If you are inserting a carbon bit my assumption would be that the carbon steel would only be in the blade? If your carbon steel is only in the blade how stable/strong is the wrought iron in a hidden tang?
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