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Aaron Gouge

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  • Location
    Morgantown, Indiana
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, camping and knife making

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  1. Cody, thanks for passing on the info on the Atlas anvil. I use his minny forge, it’s been great! I will keep it in mind. Daniel I am not thrilled with the idea of cutting the Scott anvil. I know it is above my skill level of welding to put it back together. I would take it to a fab shop in Ecuador. Aaron
  2. Hey Zeb, my plan has been to buy a 77lb Kanca Anvil to take down. But then this Scott anvil was made available for me to take. Trimming the toes and horn a bit might do it. All the reading I’ve done so far is that welding ductile is questionable.
  3. Geoff I may be able to find a piece of track but it’s hard to say at this piont. It takes a lot longer to make connections and find sources for things like these in South America. I have no problem improvising but if I can take something down with me it would make the transition a little easier. Gerald I have not found any positive info or leads for anvil in Ecuador. Anything that is imported can be 2 to 3 times the cost than it would be in the states. Your simple charcoal grill that you could buy for $50 at Home Depot cost $180 in Ecuador. They’re getting better about having quality tools but it can be very hit and miss.
  4. Hey all, So need some help here. I will be moveing to Ecuador in about 2 months! We are supper excited!! I currently don’t have a anvil. Been forging on some kind of old cast iron or pig iron machine counter balance. I have had a 105 Lb Scott anvil become available for me to take to Ecuador. Here is the catch, we are not shipping anything down. So it has to go as baggage on the plane with us and that means a 100lb max waight limite. If I was to cut the base of to meet the 100lb waight requirement could it be welded back together? Or would this distroy a otherwise good anvil? It seems they are made of ductile alloy. Thanks for your help Aaron
  5. Jerrod I appreciate you thoughts. With having no experience with W2 it seems like a longer step than 1084 or 80CrV2 in my learning journey. I don't mind a challenge but I also don't want to throw money away either. Yet also I would say any smith would have a learning curve with a new metal. I feel like I have the heat treat dialed in on the spring steel I have been using. Before moving on to some of the more picky carbon steels I need to invest in a pyrometer for my forge. I have not invested in any faster quench oil because the family and I will be moving over seas in the next 3-5 months. I plan on taking much of my forging equipment but not oil so it makes sense to stick with the Canola oil for now.
  6. Hey Joel, thanks for jumping back in with the help. I’m not sure I want to go for a hamon yet... not sure I want to open that box yet!:-) Knowing my brother if I presented that option he would be like “Sweet, that’s what I want!” After Doug mentioned the 80CrV2 I did some reading up on it. It dose seem like its a good option as well. Would most people agree that W2 or 80CrV2 would have a little bit of a edge over 1084 for a skinning/hunting knife? Aaron
  7. Alan I keep my quench tank right next to my forge when I am quenching so getting the steel into the oil quick should not be a problem. Should I have the canola at 130 or warmer? I have a oblong quench tank and my blades go in horizontaly edge first, is this fine with W2?
  8. Alan it will be less than a 1/4" thick, between 3/16" and 1/8". That is supper helpful to know that the canola oil will work! Unless anyone else wants to chime in with advice on these steels. I will have a talk with my brother and see what his thoughts are. I will update you all when I finish the two knives.
  9. Hey Doug, The spring steel I have is a boundle from a 94 Chevy truck. Picked it up at a friends salvage yard when I was passing through Northern Ohio. It still has all the factory paint on it witch leads me to believe the truck was not drove a whole lot. With the amount of snow they get and salt they use on the road they would of been covered in rust if the truck saw much use. All of that to say I know some frown on salvage steel but so far the spring steel has let my skill grow and produced some decent knives. I know thier is no “best steel” across the board. It’s a balancing act, tailoring steel to function. I felt like 1084 and W2 were a good middle ground between ease of sharpening and edge retention. On this form I have read that many makers would use these steels for a hunting/skinning knife. But I have no experience with either. Alan thanks for chiming in. Do you feel like the warm canola oil will do justice to W2? I have thought some about trying to creat a hamon if I go with the W2. Aaron
  10. Thanks Joel, I was suspicious that conola would not be fast enough but wanted more options. Jerrod, I have actually really liked the spring steel!! I feel like I have done really good with getting the blades really hard and refining the grane. I think I am about 14 blades into the hobby and most have been gifts. Here recently I have had some extended familly buy a couple. Most of the reading I have done leads me to believe that 1084 and W2 will hold a sharper edge for longer than the spring steel. I would not have been doing the extra reading on all the other steels if my brother hadn’t asked me about “best steel option”. Anyone else want to chin in? Aaron
  11. Hey all, I am newer to the form. I have been blade smithing for a little over a year now. Mostly making hunting knives out of spring steel. I have a Atlas mini forge with with no heat control system set up. I have been quenching in Canola oil. My brother would like a hunting/skinning knife made for him and a friend. He wanted to know what other steels I could use that would hold a good edge. After lots of reading I have some thoughts and would like a little advice. I would like to do the heat treat myself but don’t have the funds to upgrade my system right now ( so no parks 50 or heat control system for the forge). I have been looking at two options 1084 or W2. From my reading I believe I can do the 1084 in house. My question about W2 is will canola oil be fast enough to maximize the property’s of W2? So if my current system won’t work for W2 than I would need to send it out. If I am sending 2 knives out for heat treat do I look at some S35VN? My brother know how to care for knives so 1084 or W2 won’t be a issue. He also doesn’t abuse knives so I am looking to put a pretty fine edge on it. Thanks, Aaron
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