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Cason Hicks

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  1. Cason Hicks

    Cobbled Santoku Cleaver

    Rough shaped the handle last night, and added faux rock/caveman texture to the blade (not sure what the exact name of that is)
  2. Cason Hicks

    Cobbled Santoku Cleaver

    Here are a few update pics. I got my bevels ground in, pin holes drilled and chamfered. I did run into an issue where my grinding got into the handle area a bit, and I'm hoping its not too deep where epoxy won't suffice to fill it in. Right up by the top pin hole. I tried some draw filing to work it out, but if I file too much then I'll run into an issue where I'll end up locking my handle scales out of where I want them to be, and they'd end too close to the top pin hole. The edge has been left at approx 1.3 mm thick, and the bevels are around a 7-8 degree on each side. I've thought about doing a "rock" type finish with random angle grinder grooves in the blade, and also in the handle.
  3. Cason Hicks

    Fat Belly Skinner

    @John Ricks I do like your point of holding the knife blade inside of a closed palm. I’d explain it as it you were going to throw the knife like a little frisbee, that’s how you’d grasp it. And very correct when saying you need to know where the tip is, because when you’re up inside a whitetail, you don’t always have the benefit of seeing where you’re working.
  4. Cason Hicks

    Cobbled Santoku Cleaver

    Great question @Joël Mercier and it will be for BBQ... so cutting ribs and chopping brisket. I would also like it to double as a heavy basecamp utility chopper, so battoning and making kindling
  5. Cason Hicks

    Finish sanding question

    I have a blade that I've pretty much finished to a mirror polish, but after handle mounting/shaping/handling it, it has picked up a few micro scratches in the 3000 grit finish near the bolster. Whats the best way to go about cleaning those up? I tried grabbing some 3k grit and working them out, but where my paper stroke has to stop (where blade meets bolster) you can tell I'm not carrying my strokes through like I had when the handle wasn't there. Area is circled in attached pic. I'd really like to NOT mar up my finish.
  6. Cason Hicks

    Need some opinions

    @Alex MiddletonHow did this turn out?
  7. Cason Hicks

    Cobbled Santoku Cleaver

    This is my next project (instead of the fat belly skinner I posted about). Steel is 1/4” 1084 and handle material will be brown canvas micarta Not sure if I want to do a liner or not, maybe black G10? Thinking about doing stainless socket head cap screws for the pins Finish will likely be post-quench oil patina Thinking of doing santoku style fullers running perpendicular to the edge, and maybe the classic cleaver hole near the spine and tip. Thoughts?
  8. Cason Hicks

    Fat Belly Skinner

    @MikeDT I like your changes. I’m also wondering if that specific grind line would be hard to achieve without doing some sort of hollow grind into it.
  9. Cason Hicks

    Fat Belly Skinner

    Interesting... and I know that the design is meant to fit the task. And the task is not yet determined for this one, which is turning out to be a problem. I had the same thought about straightening it out, but it just didn't sit right on paper. I may have to set this one aside and let it marinate for a while before coming back to it.
  10. Cason Hicks

    Fat Belly Skinner

    Looking for a little inspiration and design tweaks. Not sure what I don’t like about this design, but there’s something not quite clicking with me. It’s a good basis, but just something is off. Thoughts?
  11. Cason Hicks

    Second knife "knife-chete"

    @Tim FrostHow did this turn out?
  12. Cason Hicks

    Beginners beware

    Don't mean to resurrect an old thread but Wow... @Gerhard Gerber how are you going through 40 kg of charcoal in a single heat treat session? I have a 14 pound bag of charcoal that I use for heat treat/quench and I don't go through but about 1.3 of a bag. Are you meaning normalization, quench, and tempering? I can easily quench 3 separate times with a bag of charcoal.
  13. Cason Hicks

    Hand sanding w/ wet dry sandpaper

    Aaaaaaaand SAVED for the next time I get low on paper...
  14. Cason Hicks

    Hand sanding w/ wet dry sandpaper

    My thought exactly Joel! Even in my looooong progression I always seem to hit a snag going from 1800 to 2000, where it takes 3-4x as long to remove my 1800 scratches at that point. I'm not sure why exactly, maybe I'm just hitting a critical point of fineness where I begin to really see any microscratches that are left in the steel?
  15. Cason Hicks

    Hand sanding w/ wet dry sandpaper

    Thanks Alan! Good to know. I've seen a lot of vids where people go from 120 to 400 straight to 2000 or so. That blew my mind. They may also be using a higher quality sandpaper than I am, since my stuff is from amazon. Using a silicon carbide wet/dry assortment. I think I'll give the windex a try, since it'll be a bit cleaner than motor oil.
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