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Cason Hicks

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  1. What about Bellota files? Texas Farrier Supply is close to me, and they seem to be well priced, but I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.
  2. For a satin, you can sand up to 600 thoroughly, then drop back down to 400 and do some very controlled passes. Full length passes. Don't use the same paper patch twice on a pull. Just a little 400 over 600 looks nice, in my opinion. Although scotchbrite and structured a45 belts do leave a nice finish as well.
  3. Bill Behnke makes a 36" radius platen http://www.billbehnkeknives.com/available_items.html
  4. @martinkidder I'm in Grapevine if you ever need anything
  5. What in the composition of 304 makes it anneal when quenched? I have some RoyAlloy that work hardens pretty easily and I'd love a way to easily anneal it
  6. Much thanks (as always) Alan. I'm in the Fort Worth, TX area... tons of welding/fab shops.
  7. Well I appreciate that, Will. I am happy with how it came out. As for the handle, I had a "shaving enthusiast" tell me that he knew I was a knifemaker by the shape of the handle. Meaning that its a little bulkier and shaped a bit more like a knife than a straight razor. Joshua and Will - where is the best place to source a good piece of flat, thick steel? And is bolting a better mounting option than welding (because the current larger rest I have has some serious warping from the welding)
  8. Do you have any kind of washer inside the pivot area?
  9. I think Jerrod's suggestion is probably the most feasible/school appropriate since it doesn't involve a blade of sorts. Especially for a beginner. Also maybe less of an investment up front, while still allowing you to obtain some very helpful knowledge that you'll be able to apply moving forward. Plus- it's also a little more "visual" and more interesting to viewers
  10. Unfortunately, I need to get a new work rest... the one I inherited has a nice warp in it from the previous owner having it welded to the square tubing. Its FAR from flat.
  11. I recently obtained an 8" contact wheel and decided the first hollow grind should be on a straight razor. Its 3/16" 1084 with a scrap-piece handle (osage orange, mystery wood, and pecan) with vulcanized fiber liner/spacer. Copper peened pin. I need to find a better way to get a consistent grind line on the blade, since this was tough to do freehand. Any comments or suggestions are very appreciated. This was a fun thing to do with a scrap cutoff steel piece
  12. @Chris Christenberrydo you have a motor already? Or are you looking for an entire setup? North Ridge tools is a very reputable maker, and they have just recently come out with a more affordable version, but you'll need to source our own motor. Check out the Mod-E http://www.northridgetool.com/grinders/#grinder_mod-e
  13. @Frank Barnes how do you go about cutting the slot in the tine?
  14. Ron - I have a coffee can style forge made from an old metal milk jug and using the plaster of paris/sand mixture. I yanked a burner off of an old coleman camping stove, removed the built in regulator and installed a 0-30 psi one. It has been wonderful. Don't expect it to last forever (as Alan mentioned) because each time you drag the steel in and out it scrapes the lining into powder. All in all, that forge cost me about $40-50 I think. Works wonderfully. Would recommend using a large cardboard tube for your chamber mold, though. Don't use a brand new can of PB blaster.
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