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Cason Hicks

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Everything posted by Cason Hicks

  1. What about Bellota files? Texas Farrier Supply is close to me, and they seem to be well priced, but I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.
  2. For a satin, you can sand up to 600 thoroughly, then drop back down to 400 and do some very controlled passes. Full length passes. Don't use the same paper patch twice on a pull. Just a little 400 over 600 looks nice, in my opinion. Although scotchbrite and structured a45 belts do leave a nice finish as well.
  3. Bill Behnke makes a 36" radius platen http://www.billbehnkeknives.com/available_items.html
  4. @martinkidder I'm in Grapevine if you ever need anything
  5. What in the composition of 304 makes it anneal when quenched? I have some RoyAlloy that work hardens pretty easily and I'd love a way to easily anneal it
  6. Much thanks (as always) Alan. I'm in the Fort Worth, TX area... tons of welding/fab shops.
  7. Well I appreciate that, Will. I am happy with how it came out. As for the handle, I had a "shaving enthusiast" tell me that he knew I was a knifemaker by the shape of the handle. Meaning that its a little bulkier and shaped a bit more like a knife than a straight razor. Joshua and Will - where is the best place to source a good piece of flat, thick steel? And is bolting a better mounting option than welding (because the current larger rest I have has some serious warping from the welding)
  8. Do you have any kind of washer inside the pivot area?
  9. I think Jerrod's suggestion is probably the most feasible/school appropriate since it doesn't involve a blade of sorts. Especially for a beginner. Also maybe less of an investment up front, while still allowing you to obtain some very helpful knowledge that you'll be able to apply moving forward. Plus- it's also a little more "visual" and more interesting to viewers
  10. Unfortunately, I need to get a new work rest... the one I inherited has a nice warp in it from the previous owner having it welded to the square tubing. Its FAR from flat.
  11. I recently obtained an 8" contact wheel and decided the first hollow grind should be on a straight razor. Its 3/16" 1084 with a scrap-piece handle (osage orange, mystery wood, and pecan) with vulcanized fiber liner/spacer. Copper peened pin. I need to find a better way to get a consistent grind line on the blade, since this was tough to do freehand. Any comments or suggestions are very appreciated. This was a fun thing to do with a scrap cutoff steel piece
  12. @Chris Christenberrydo you have a motor already? Or are you looking for an entire setup? North Ridge tools is a very reputable maker, and they have just recently come out with a more affordable version, but you'll need to source our own motor. Check out the Mod-E http://www.northridgetool.com/grinders/#grinder_mod-e
  13. @Frank Barnes how do you go about cutting the slot in the tine?
  14. Ron - I have a coffee can style forge made from an old metal milk jug and using the plaster of paris/sand mixture. I yanked a burner off of an old coleman camping stove, removed the built in regulator and installed a 0-30 psi one. It has been wonderful. Don't expect it to last forever (as Alan mentioned) because each time you drag the steel in and out it scrapes the lining into powder. All in all, that forge cost me about $40-50 I think. Works wonderfully. Would recommend using a large cardboard tube for your chamber mold, though. Don't use a brand new can of PB blaster.
  15. It's my understanding that if you're going to do a straight razor with a hollow, the grind needs to come back quite a good distance toward the spine. razors are measured in 8ths, with a common size being a 7/8 or 6/8. So the hollow on a 7/8 razor should probably come back around 5/8ths of the overall width. Yours seems to be much closer to the edge. And that's with all the grind types.
  16. Thanks for that expert advice, Alan (as always). You guys are the best. I had an idea of what it should be, but had no relevant experience with that sort of task.
  17. @Gazz Yes you're right. And this guy has a newer slicer, but he cores and halves the heads before putting them on there. So he's looking for that halver/corer. My apologies if the initial post was for a shredding knife! @Alan Longmire Yes he mentioned using "a long bread knife-like blade, but without the serrations" and I assume that's a carver he's been using. And he likes it, but need a little more length for the 10" diameter cabbage heads. So you're spot on with saying a 12" pattern. Are you saying you'd create a separate knife for coring? @Ron Benson My ex used to core and store the iceberg heads, and I never really knew why... just figured thats what her mother did haha
  18. Very interesting indeed, and it works. On the next one, you may want to make the handle a smidge longer... 4" is just almost too short for me (personally). And I think it would help with some of the dimensional proportions. Definitely a cool idea.
  19. I have a potential commission for someone who has a family tradition of making homemade sauerkraut. He is interested in a custom knife to keep in the family and pass down, but he really doesn't know anything about knives. He's told me that he will usually just grab the closest knife to him to half/core/shred the heads. Personally, I've never shredded my own cabbage, so I'm looking for some advice on design and shape from those who have. He did say that these are large heads, roughly 8 pounds each, and that most of the time the knife isn't large enough to cut through in a single slice. That makes me think he's needing something around 8-9" (but I don't know the diameter of an 8 lb cabbage). Also, he stated he's used something similar to a bread knife (in shape) but without serrated teeth for coring. He liked this, stating it was lighter and longer. I figure I'll be using something like 1/8" or 5/32" stock on this, so would a hollow grind be best? Any suggestions?
  20. Do you want that pivoting/swing door on the front vs a hinged? Just seems like it could easily get in the way as a pivoting set up. I feel like a swing up/toward you door would work better. Never forged before, but just thinking of designs I've seen previously, and there must be a reason for the designs.
  21. I'd point you toward Phoenix Abrasives. They have a great selection at great prices. Their orange ceramic belts are tough, and supposedly their red ferrari belts are even better. Plus they just started carrying the shredder 36 grits also. Lots of higher grit stuff as well.
  22. I know the Sorrells design you're talking about, and the best thing about it is the lack of moving parts. I originally made my own jig using two plates of mild steel, hinges, eye bolt, etc. The biggest flaw in this is the amount of moving parts. All assembled tightly, there was still slack that eventually found its way into the jig. This is because when using parts that do not have tight tolerances, and are not meant for this type of wear/tear, they will begin to show their true quality. If you're looking to make one, make it with few to no moving parts. If you're looking to buy, then just do yourself a favor and buy one, cry once. White bone knives has a great looking bevel jig, among many other makers.
  23. I'm going to agree with Gerhard here... I could barely get that far with nice flat stock in that time! haha BEST OF LUCK!!
  24. Right! Thanks again fellas. This helps a lot. If anyone else needs to see the vid clip just let me know. I’ll get it to ya.
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