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Michael Chaddock

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Posts posted by Michael Chaddock


  1. 9 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

    Sorry, it's an electronic temperature controller. I have one similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controllers-Thermostat-ITC-106VH/dp/B01N6OCKV9

    Of course, the supplied thermocouple is low temperature and not suitable for kiln purpose. You'll have to buy a high temp one with an oxydation resistant jacket.

     

    13 minutes ago, dragoncutlery said:

    auburn instruments is were i get my pid controllers i got one off ebay/amazon to save a bunch of money and used it to control a toaster oven to dry wood and almost burnt the oven up it was over 100deg f off and i could not get it to adjust to correct never had that issue with the auburn even with other suppliers thermocuples

    Thanks so much for the info guys!!

     


  2. I picked up an Evenflow ceramics kiln over the weekend for way cheap, all of the elements work great. It is an older model so it uses cones for temp. control. So here is my current tentative plan, since I only have $40.00 invested so far, save up to purchase a kilnsitter temperature controll unit (about $250) , cut a hole in the top which would allow blades to be suspended on wire and pulled when ready (cover with fire brick when needed). Has anyone here ever done anything like this befor?  If so I would love to hear your thoughts, differing ideas etc. even if you think I should just sell the thing to a ceramic artist and move on haha.


  3. I have a grizzly 2"x72" for the money, it is a nice machine....just add a couple winds of electrical tape around the center of the tracking wheel, but be careful, it only has one speed (really fast) so you can mess up a knife or a finger in a heartbeat if you get careless. Good luck and have fun with your son!


  4. I have had the same thoughts as well.... it seems like it would be a much more affordable option, and easier than modifying a log splitter or something like it. I have been keeping my eyes open for an old Metal Muncher or Scotchman or something because then you have multiple capabilities with one machine.


  5. 20 hours ago, Jerrod Miller said:

    Gerald (or anyone else for that matter), how would you guess this would hold up to a bit of abuse?  The pommels on my fencing swords tend to rust if I leave them in my truck (and blades, but not as bad and they get worked over more).  Would the linseed oil be a good coating for those do you think?  My experience with poly says that would be bad, as it will really start to chip and flake, and generally be bad.  

    Depending on the handle construction, you may be able to heat the handles with a propane torch and rub with a block of beeswax, the heat opens the pores enough that the metal absorbes the wax on the surface layer. Allow to cool, buff lightly with a soft cloth. I do this with pendants that I forge from steel, I have been wearing one for two years and there is no sign of rust even though it is against my skin all day every day. Again, it would only work with certain epoxy free  handle construction.


  6. It probably sounds weird, but listen to your spirit not your head or your heart. In other words, you already know the answer, you just have to shut down emotion and let it come to light. Good luck with figuring it all out...whatever you decide will be the right choice!.

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  7. I put this question in the Beginners section because I am unfamiliar with stainless steel as far as blade making goes. How would 304 SS or 308 SS work for a stock removal blade? And, if applicable, what heat treat process would be best? I only ask because I have access to a large amount for little to no cost on my part, and although I personally prefer carbon steel, it might be fun to play with. Thanks in advance for the help!

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