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Stephen Ray

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About Stephen Ray

  • Birthday 08/07/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Manchester NH
  • Interests
    Forging (in spite of my inexperience and lack of materials) FPS games. being busy enough to not stagnate.

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  1. Thank you, I am thrilled to hear that. I actually have a buyer for this one. I would hate to have to start over.
  2. Does it invalidate my blade for more work? The frogskin I mean
  3. Trying to figure out why I have these "blisters" on my steel. It is leaf spring steel and didn't develop these marks until quench. I used clean motor oil and preheated it beforehand. And does this mean I need to start over?
  4. I just got a harsh reminder that whenever you want to use your propane forge; make sure your connections are tight! It started up and immediately made a fireball at the intake for the forge. If this happens cut the fuel immediately. (My dumbass immediately tried blowing on it for half a second) if ANY damage to your hose/joint have occurred then replace them or fix them before using the forge again. Any damage sustained will be a risk for future pain/death. Bottom line. Be diligent and be safe before you turn on the heat.
  5. It is already handed off. I will definitely do it for my next one. I have one good spike left.
  6. A gift for a customer who gave me my improvised anvil. Working on my first seax now.
  7. Thank you everyone. This has been an incredible help.
  8. I have narrowed it down to an rh pal ww2 style combat knife but all of the variations of it I can find have completely different blood grooves. I am trying to get the specific version of the knife so I might be able to restore it.
  9. As Alan mentioned in my previous post. It is hit or miss in regards to whether or not a heat treat takes with A36. This is from the same section of oil tank that my other knife was made from. Even if it doesn't harden I am still thrilled to be getting the practice in. The feedback has been incredible and I have officially become obsessed with improving my technique. I really do appreciate the heads up. Thank you for looking out.
  10. Learned a lot from making my first knife. Mostly from well established people from this site. Overall length so far is 9.75 inches. Made from A36 Steel. Bevels are more or less even on both sides. Not heat treated yet because I still have some improvements to make. The belt sander has made the process much easier but I think the bastard will file is still the best way to establish the bevels.
  11. Would quenching a short length of this before I do any work with it be informative enough? And on a side note, would acid flux be acceptable for acid etching? Or would I need something stronger? I vaguely recall hearing that it can be used to highlight hardened vs not hardened steel.
  12. That explains why there is still "a bit" of bite with the file. I am going to be remaking this knife with a much better steel. I feel like this should do the trick.
  13. I followed the recommendation to heat treat it anyway just in case my steel was misidentified. It does seem to be harder and the file doesn't bite anywhere near as easily as it did. So in conclusion I would have to say that while it is not a HIGH carbon steel; it definitely seems to have some carbon content. I made an improper assessment based on the sparks thrown off while making the initial cuts. Makes me very appreciative of the trove of resources to be found here.
  14. Well, it's not as refined as I had hoped it would be. It is heat treated now. The bevels are a bit more defined and I am trying to decide on the scales now. I decided to make the pommel into a bottle opener and the thumb grip thingy has a single seration in the middle of it for cutting rope/cord.
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