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Stephen Ray

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Everything posted by Stephen Ray

  1. Thank you, I am thrilled to hear that. I actually have a buyer for this one. I would hate to have to start over.
  2. Does it invalidate my blade for more work? The frogskin I mean
  3. Trying to figure out why I have these "blisters" on my steel. It is leaf spring steel and didn't develop these marks until quench. I used clean motor oil and preheated it beforehand. And does this mean I need to start over?
  4. I just got a harsh reminder that whenever you want to use your propane forge; make sure your connections are tight! It started up and immediately made a fireball at the intake for the forge. If this happens cut the fuel immediately. (My dumbass immediately tried blowing on it for half a second) if ANY damage to your hose/joint have occurred then replace them or fix them before using the forge again. Any damage sustained will be a risk for future pain/death. Bottom line. Be diligent and be safe before you turn on the heat.
  5. It is already handed off. I will definitely do it for my next one. I have one good spike left.
  6. A gift for a customer who gave me my improvised anvil. Working on my first seax now.
  7. Thank you everyone. This has been an incredible help.
  8. I have narrowed it down to an rh pal ww2 style combat knife but all of the variations of it I can find have completely different blood grooves. I am trying to get the specific version of the knife so I might be able to restore it.
  9. As Alan mentioned in my previous post. It is hit or miss in regards to whether or not a heat treat takes with A36. This is from the same section of oil tank that my other knife was made from. Even if it doesn't harden I am still thrilled to be getting the practice in. The feedback has been incredible and I have officially become obsessed with improving my technique. I really do appreciate the heads up. Thank you for looking out.
  10. Learned a lot from making my first knife. Mostly from well established people from this site. Overall length so far is 9.75 inches. Made from A36 Steel. Bevels are more or less even on both sides. Not heat treated yet because I still have some improvements to make. The belt sander has made the process much easier but I think the bastard will file is still the best way to establish the bevels.
  11. Would quenching a short length of this before I do any work with it be informative enough? And on a side note, would acid flux be acceptable for acid etching? Or would I need something stronger? I vaguely recall hearing that it can be used to highlight hardened vs not hardened steel.
  12. That explains why there is still "a bit" of bite with the file. I am going to be remaking this knife with a much better steel. I feel like this should do the trick.
  13. I followed the recommendation to heat treat it anyway just in case my steel was misidentified. It does seem to be harder and the file doesn't bite anywhere near as easily as it did. So in conclusion I would have to say that while it is not a HIGH carbon steel; it definitely seems to have some carbon content. I made an improper assessment based on the sparks thrown off while making the initial cuts. Makes me very appreciative of the trove of resources to be found here.
  14. Well, it's not as refined as I had hoped it would be. It is heat treated now. The bevels are a bit more defined and I am trying to decide on the scales now. I decided to make the pommel into a bottle opener and the thumb grip thingy has a single seration in the middle of it for cutting rope/cord.
  15. Thank you for the advice. The fiscal vacuum that is my life can probably manage to fit that in the budget next week. Is there a specific grit you recommend? Or just wing it? Like I said. It is a mild steel so right now it's all about practice and refining technique.
  16. I did this with an angle grinder switching between a low grit and high grit wheel. I used a cutting wheel to get the rough shape. It is, unfortunately a mild steel but nonetheless it is my first blade. Criticism is not only welcome but encouraged. Thank you.
  17. In my search for steel I have been google-fuing (a phrase I adopted from this site thank you.) and have had some thoughts on what might guarantee some reasonably good steel for a better price. in short: could I spend $10 on a broken jack, bottle or otherwise and use the core on the assumption that it would be a good high carbon steel? what about other things such as ball hitches or padlock shackle (masterlock or brinks for example). Google has provided nothing definitive.
  18. Hypothetically I could use my hydraulic Jack and just drop my car on the canister...
  19. I will look into that too. Still gonna get a couple of those rounds though. I am sure I could do something with them.
  20. Thank you! I will contact the seller in the morning. Presumably they still have some left. I will see what other materials they may be offering while I am there.
  21. https://nh.craigslist.org/mat/d/fremont-4-thick-steel-circles/6836325629.html would these work?
  22. Well, his prospective minion is struggling to get proper equipment within a very tight budget...lol I may have my sights on an I-BEAM as an improvised anvil.
  23. maybe an acrylic paste to make a positive impression? I am just looking for a material fine enough to pick up the most minute details. I may just be grasping at straws now. If you get the lighting just right your camera may be able to see the variances with different filters.
  24. Maybe I over complicate things... lol
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