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Jacob Cashion

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Everything posted by Jacob Cashion

  1. Thanks Alan! You are an incredible font of information, as always, and really appreciate the input - the books I've read haven't provided info on thickness at the guard and don't specify where within the forte they took the measurements
  2. Thanks guys - I was leaning that way, and don't know why I didn't plan to do it that way in the first place. I'm really looking forward to getting this project rolling (I had another delay getting started last weekend, as there was no propane to be found in my town *the horror*). I'm planning it as an heirloom piece, using a beautiful piece of brownheart for the handle (only block of it I've ever found) that I've been saving for years, plus teaching myself to engrave so I can do bronze inlays (gold's not in the budget, and I think bronze will stand out visually better than silver) on the guards. I've spent a lot of time researching leading up to this project, boning up on blade typologies and hilt types (I'm going with a late Geibig Type 2c blade with about 75-70% taper and Petersen Type V hilt). The thing that has surprised me the most is how narrow the cross section is on these blades - typically under 1/4" (~0.236") at the forte - I'm planning to forge to 3/8" and grind down to .250, and keep it there unless it throws off the balance.
  3. Thanks for the input on the fishmouth weld, guys! Project got delayed due to a death in the family, but it actually gave me time to think about the design, and question if there was a better way to arrange the pattern. So, which do you guys think will look better? The 5 bar billet I originally proposed, or a 6 bar billet with the crushed w's on the edge and the twists in the middle?
  4. Hey all, Long time since I last posted here, and a (mercifully much shorter) long time since my day job and the hot summer have given me a chance to be in the shop. Well, I'm taking a vacation next week and starting a big personal project on Saturday to celebrate: A Pattern-Welded Viking Sword! The structure of the blade will be historically accurate, though I'm taking liberties with the pattern. The plan: my 30.5" long, 2" wide blade (tapers to ~75%) will be constructed from 5 billets - a central crushed W's billet and 4 twisted (2 clockwise, 2 counter), which I will ladder to expose the W's and produce opposing whirlpool twists. The part I really want feedback on (Sanity Test Please), is my plan to cut a V into the end of the billet and forge-weld shut, so that the twists mate at the point - am I being too ambitious/making too many problems? Apologies for the bad drawing, paper is not my best medium of expression
  5. I didn't get to spend as much time as I wanted to in the shop this weekend, but was still able to build a fullering swage [made of 3/4" diameter 52100, foreground], and finished restoring my great-grandfather's anvil [background, 250 lbs, manufacturer unknown, markings worn away] to working condition. Three quarters of the near edge had been chipped and dented up to 1/2 an inch deep. Ground it all down to 45 degrees and built it back up with 7018 rods.
  6. Holy Mother of God these are incredible. This is truly humbling. This is on my list to learn how to do, if I can only figure it out.
  7. Thanks Alan, you always give good advice! I admit I had some doubts about drawing it down further, but I haven't found any books [that I can currently afford] that discuss the relative dimensions of ancient weapons. I'm going for a sort of Roman-inspired shape, but the plan for right now, and it might be a mistake, is to fuller it for about two-thirds of its length. But then, learning is all about risking mistakes.
  8. So, I like to bite off more than I can chew; it's one of the fastest ways for me to learn [by making opportunities for more mistakes], and a fresh challenge inspires me to work harder. I'm still mastering some of my patterns for pattern welding, still working on fine tuning some of my work at the grinder, and very much over-involved in grad school, but to heck with it. I'm going to make a sword, just to prove to myself that I can. Let the upskilling commence!! This is going to be a single-handed, double edged short* sword [probably]. I started with a 12 inch section of salvaged leaf spring from a bundle a friend gave me [he found it while plowing near his barn, but there was LOTs of good material left once I got through the rust], picture below so you can see what shape it was in. It was 3 inches wide, roughly 3/8 inch thick. Ground off the rust, got it in the forge and got the tang mostly drawn out. I'll forge down a bit to thread for a pommel later on, right now I just want something my tongs can get a good grip on. I'm not the one who scarred up the anvil's cutting table, it came to me that way. The Peter Wright is my best friend, I'd never hit it with a chisel. From here I got it hot and used a chisel to cut off the corners and make the tip easier to forge. Forged the tip mostly to shape with a hand hammer. After that it was time to thank god for the foresight in investing in a press, and started drawing out the blade. This is where I stopped for the day, 3.5 hours into the project, because it was 08:30 and the temperature in the workshop was already hitting 95 F. Current dimensions of the blade are 21 inches x 2.5 inches x 3/16 inch thick. Tomorrow I'll finish drawing it out, so it will be about 1/8 inch thick when I start grinding.
  9. I'm still relatively new to blade making, and I sometimes, mostly on wider blades like chef's knives, have a problem with what is discussed here regarding the angle of the blade heel. When I'm doing the final grind, everything will be going smoothly and then suddenly I realize the heel has ground down way too fast and is now at a different angle to the rest of the edge. [Not too proud to admit it, definitely too proud to market it without re-profiling the whole edge.] Does anyone here have a good tip for preventing this [other than "pay more attention", please, 'cause there is already too much snark inside my head]?
  10. I agree with Bill, definitely look at Coal Iron Works. I have their 16+ model, and it's the best investment I ever made in my shop. The standard 16 ton model is plenty good for most work though, and half the price of an Anyang. I can easily forge down a 2 & 1/2" thick billet to 1/2" in 2 or 3 heats (though I typically take 4 or 5 to keep the layers even).
  11. Just finished this knife, it'll be going to its new home tomorrow. Really thankful for this sale, this is the first blade I've sold since quarantine hit. Materials are 15N20 with African Padauk handle. The sheath came out pretty well considering it's been 5 years since I worked with leather.
  12. Got this blade tempered, final ground and etched yesterday. It's a crushed W's billet that I laddered and then drew out widthwise. My friends and family have requested that I dub the pattern "Reaper Damascus". Materials are 1080 and 15N20; I'll be putting black paper micarta scales on the handle today.
  13. On this blade I did two 14 minute immersions in 3:1 water:ferric chloride, neutralized in a saturated solution of baking soda and rinsed under the faucet between the two etches. The blade was at 2000 grit mirror finish when it went into the etch. After the second time in the ferric, I lightly hand polished with 2000 grit polishing paper, wiped with isopropyl alcohol, and let it soak in black coffee (this was my first coffee etch, and as a non-coffee drinker I don't know the difference between regular and instant) for 4 hours. Then neutralized in baking soda solution and rinsed in the sink. Generally I do two or three (depending on depth I want) 15-20 minute cycles before neutralizing and polishing. I never heard of leaving it to air dry overnight, I'll have to try that.
  14. This is a 300ish layer "Pool and Eye" Damascus chef's knife I made last week for my own use. It's the first chef's knife I have done. I think it looks kind of washed out, like it needs a lower layer count to pop. Thoughts? Materials are 1080 & 15N20 with a paper micarta handle. Etched twice in ferric chloride and once in black coffee. It features a (poorly executed) San Mai using an extra layer of 1080 to make up for my miscalculating the material removed in patterning.
  15. Finished these Damascus letter openers before I went to work this morning. They were forged from the same bar of 54 layer twist. Materials are 1080 and 15n20; one handle is redheart, the other katalox. opener2 openers
  16. Heard back from Admiral, apparently they only stock 9260 when 5160 runs out, and they haven't updated the site. Their reply: "Those sizes should read 5160. Occasionally we have to substitute 9260 if the mill isn’t running 5160 (I understand it’s the European equivalent in terms of spec)- and sometimes it takes a little longer to get the site updated." Where have you found 9260?
  17. They don't have it in their catalog, but in the online store under 5160 two of the listings actually say 9260. I've got an email in to them to make sure that's accurate, hopefully will hear back sometime tomorrow.
  18. Thanks for the endorsement on the 9260, and for the pointers on high alloy combinations! Pretty obvious that I'm still a rookie when it comes to "exotics" if I can't remember to compare HT specs, hehe. And for the contrasting layers yeah, I almost always use 15n20 with 1080. Lately I've just been musing about the possibility of other alloy differences to produce contrast.
  19. Has anyone forge welded 9260? I've done a 1080/5160 construction before with good results, but since Admiral has started stocking 5160 and 9260 interchangeably I am considering trying a new combo for bigger blades once I've depleted my current stock. Similar note; has anyone done 5160 + W2? I figure it will forge similarly to W2 + O1, just less prone to cracking.
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