Jump to content

Paul Checa

Members
  • Content Count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Paul Checa

  • Birthday 07/16/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    México city
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing

Recent Profile Visitors

675 profile views
  1. Hi all, So I'm opening this topic up for debate... I'm starting to make kitchen knives (chefs knives) and was told 1060 was a great steel to make them. I'm also thinking of making them Damascus so I was thinking 1060/15n20. What are your thoughts on this steel for forging chefs knives and what other type do you think is better and why! We need to keep in mind availability, price and difficulty in forging tempering etc.
  2. I will keep all of this in mind! Thanks Dan
  3. Hey jerrod. Well I did everything by the book. The jig was perfectly even. My finds were as well. I mean not down to the .0001 of a millimeter but very very honed in. My quench went perfectly. As a matter of fact when it took it out of quenching it was straight! It started warping on the grind. And I believe it's because of what you said. I should have tempered to at least 300 o 350.
  4. I will keep that in mind for my next project. Maybe it started warping cause I hadn't tempered it. And you're right I might have had to temper to release the stress. And instead it released it in the ginder. But I did use a slow grinding speed. Lesson learned. Ahahah Thanks again for all the comments and helpful tips!
  5. I believe I believe everything you said is true. So in summation... 15b20 gets treated as the steel it has been welded to. In this case I think I have identified my mistake. When I requenched I didn't do the 3 cycles. And the blade was thin enough that it wanted to warp decause not only did it warp to one side but it became concave from hilt to spine. Well. Off to try again, it was only to be expected for my first time. Trial and error I always say. I'll save this Damascus billet to make some fossil Damascus in a can. Tha
  6. I understand perfectly. But we need to remember we do put a lot of stress into the steel when forging and even more being Damascus steel. That's why the high temp the 3 cycles and the bringing the tem down with each cycle. It has actually proven to be a faultless technique with my other blades. I actually developed a quick guide for treating steel with Alan Longmire's "supervision". Check it out, it can be very helpful it's printable and I have it next to my oven to look at when I'm doing this if I don't have the schedules programmed into my evenheat kiln.
  7. I use this little miracle I found, I know it's not gonna be totally accurate but it skated right off on 60 and bit in with the 65. So I say 60 but it might be in between.
  8. Hey Alan! So I did 3 normalizing cycles 1. 1650 and cooled in air 2. 1600 and put it in the jig and let it cool 3. 1550 in the jig again Quenched at 1565 in 150º cooking oil and straight to the jig. And this was all in my evenheat oven And the second time I hardened I normalized once at 1550 and them quenched. Maybe I should have done the 3 cycles again right?
  9. Thanks vlegski! BillyO caught my drift a bit better. It was a mere 216 layer Damascus nothing fancy. I did my thermal cycling perfectly but I did it to suit the 1060 steel, here's where I get my doubts. Maybe 15b20 needs different treating than 1060 and I'm either quenching too hot, Or too cold. In waiting for a response from the forum I started messing around with the knife pre tempering. (it was at 60 hrc) so I wanted to leave it as such to get a great sharpness. But in my lack of patience I broke it. So we might think this discussion is no longer a moot
  10. Hi all, So I started doing my first chefs knife, a Damascus 1060/15n20. But I found it to warp a LOT. I left it a bit thick for quenching but I saw it warping since the normalizing (I treated it like 1060 steel) maybe that was my mistake. So when I quenched it I quickly put it in my straightening jig and let it cool there and it was straight. But when I started grinding it started to warp I was cooling the blade in water and that started to make it curve. But I wasn't letting it get hot. That's what has me wondering.. Do any of you know where I took a misstep or what I shoul
  11. Thanks so much! I'll take a look! I do t know if a bed frame is as hard as quenched high Carbon steel. But let me take a look and I'll let you know after testing! Thanks again Paul!
  12. Awesome. Thanks so much! Yeah I found that annealing and then drilling helped but for some reason (that I found out in this post) the instability of the mount and lack of rigidity was making me chip my bits. I actually tried to drill a 3/16 carbide and securely fastened it and made it so it was soooo rigid it wouldn't move an Inch and by calculating the force nearing the end of the hole I was successful on 4 holes! So for now we got a proved experiment. Next it's the cobalt test. I'll let you guys know how it went! Thanks to all! PD. I'll check those suppliers f
  13. Yes that's pretty much what I do, and now I don't feel so bad that I break them in the exact same place someone else does. Hahaha. I'm gonna try the cobalt. And if that doesn't work I'll go back to the carbide with a lot more rigidity in the mounting and I'll be even more careful. Thanks
  14. hi alex, i had replied but for some reason it didn't send. thanks so much for your comment. i will try with cobalt bits to see if it will help me out, do you have a brand of choice that you can send me a link to buy, i normally use 3/16, 1/4, 1/8. i can only find 3/16 y 1/4 in mexico, thats where im from, and they are Makita brand. i dont personally know how good those are, but i would rather buy where you have had good experience from. would you be so kind to share your supplier? thanks so much!!!
×
×
  • Create New...