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Paul Checa

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Everything posted by Paul Checa

  1. So I guess I'm doing some cupón normalizing! Thanks guys!
  2. Hi all I was trying to do a spark test but got pretty similar results and was hoping I could get some help from the masters in the forum... So I found what I believe to be a piec of spring steel from a truck's suspension in the highway and brought it back to the shop and performed a spark test on it only to be more confused it. I've attached a video where you can see me performing the test. The first is 5160 steel The second is the steel I found on the highway The third is a piece of rebar. I would love to read your comments. Thanks! 20191207_130917.mp4
  3. yeah, just had a flashback to a dagger i made, had the appearance of sugar crystals when it broke. hahaha thanks dan...
  4. now you make me wonder, is there a way to introduce more carbon into the steel while forging... hmmm... just a thought, im a beginner, thats why all the questions, its probably best to just do all the carbon introducing in the foundry and let it be born with it right? still so much to learn... i love this forum... theres so little knowledge in mexico thanks for all this guys, its great to have you as teachers.... so one more question... too much exposure of the steel to the forge heat is bad for the steel right? as in when im forging my billet into shape i shouldnt leave it in there too long after it has achieved a nice orange color, i have to take it out hit it and put it back in and so forth right? we dont want it to sit in the forge for too long...
  5. Thanks so much for that class! So no more hada for me! Haha
  6. Ahhhh maybe I heard it wrong. That was probably it. Doug marcaida's accent threw me off... So now that we know what we are talking about Alan (always to the rescue) could you enlighten me as to what the benefits of hada are? Is it true it makes stronger steel?
  7. hahahaah nice one but no, was it hatta? when you layer the same steel over itself so as to make it stronger? correct me if im wrong i just remeber.
  8. Thanks! And so what's it called when it's layers of the same kind of metal? I saw it in forged in fire but I can't remember what they called it...
  9. Hi so can anyone explain the difference between San Mai and go mai please. I would really appreciate it.
  10. So top is coffee middle is black tea and bottom is natural! How do you like them best?
  11. Awesome!! I figured coffee would be one and I tried it! It actually worked but I will try to get the potassium and I'll let you know how that turns out! Thanks sensei! Ohhh and I found the potassium permanganate so if you have the recipe I'd love to have it so I can "bake that cake" hahahaha
  12. Hi guys this has more to do with handles than steel but I believe it to be equally important. Does anyone know how to patina antlers so I can bring out the natural contrasts of the antler?
  13. Hi guys so I'm looking for a substitute for 15n20 steel since I can't find it in Mexico. I got the 1095 and 5160 but having a hard time finding 15n20 for damascus. Do you have any recommendations on what steel I can use to get a good damascus contrast? Thanks,
  14. Ohhhh ok ok got it! Thanks! But the quench is the same as you taught me before!
  15. Wait so that means I won't have to quench it? Or what do you mean?
  16. Thanks for your replies! So I guess O-1 is my best option for replacing 1095 if I don't find 5160 or 15n20 or something more common.
  17. Hi guys, I have a question I'm only getting D2 and O1 steel in Mexico where I live to make knives has anyone made knives with this type of steel? Is it good? Do you recommend them? Should I keep looking for other types? What are the pros and cons of these types? If they are good which one of these would you use? Any other info you'd like to share? Are they any good for damascus? If they are good for damascus Do they work well with 1095? Thanks!
  18. I will check it out... The thing that might crew me is the weight. Shipping might go through the roof. Thanks!
  19. Hahahaha it did... Not only in this but in other subjects that were quite clear. Not decalescence though Alan explained that to me perfectly as I read he did to you too! I'm gonna try to get my hands on some 5160... But it's kinda hard here in Mexico. If not I'm just gonna have to keep on practicing with the 1095 I've got. I don't think it's too bad from what I read in your post it's just the quenching right?
  20. Hi all, So I've been making knives with 1095 steel and I'm wondering if you recommend I use another type of steel or To stick to this type to get more experience on forging, normalizing, quenching, tempering, sharpening, and once I get better change steel types?
  21. I do pass magnetic... The thing is I thing I overshoot every time... I'm overheating that's what we deducted on previous posts cause I go for bright yellow instead of cherry read or orange.
  22. Yes I normally do 3 heat cycles to critical temp and cooling in air temp in sand... But I guess I did heat it too much as well. (I don't have another way to do it that is not by color) I use 1095 steel i leave it for a even heat but I'm gonna do the pipe for a More even heat usin wood coal to withdraw any oxigen. Perfect will do that. Thank very much. Cherry red right?
  23. How's this one in the pic? I'll weld it shut on the other end. Or is a thicker one better? Wood charcoal or mineral charcoal? I'll swap it for cooking oil then (also heated to 200º F?) One last thing... Should I wait for the pipe to be up to temp and then put in the blade cold and let it heat up or let it all come to temp together from the getgo? And it's too bad you don't have that unplugged recorded it would have been like taking a semester of forging college... I would have payed for it! And probably many more people.
  24. I will wait for night and do it then cause my shop is very well lit! And will aim for cherry red or dark orange. Thanks a million!
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