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Paul Checa

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Everything posted by Paul Checa

  1. Thanks for all that valuable info Daniel!
  2. So I'm just gonna have to keep buffing when it gets dull. Got it!
  3. So... If I stretch before then we're good right? It won't look weird if I drill the holes on the wide stretch. I think that's my best bet. What would you do? And would you use high layer or lower layer Damascus? What looks nicer?
  4. So I'm trying to make a raindrop Damascus cleaver but here's the kicker... I only have 2 inch wide steel. And my cleaver has to be 4 inches wide by 8 inches long. So my question is. Should I press the Damascus layers wide wise so I can reach teh 4 inches and have enough layers to reach the 8 inch long goal. Or can I make 2 Damascus layer 8 inch long billets and forge weld them side by side and then punch in the raindrop patten. If I widen instead of lengthen will it affect the pattern? Thanks,
  5. I'm in Mexico so it makes it a bit tougher they will probably just say use lacker or something like that haha
  6. Yes I know. That's why I turned to the forum to see if you guys had a vmbetter solution
  7. Yes. But I need something that will stand the test of time and exposure to water.
  8. I use walrus oil cutting board oil but it needs to be reapplied after a couple of washes.
  9. So... I'm made a kitchen knife, I have my stabilized burlwood but it still loses its shine if I wash out the knife after using it. Is there anything you guys recommend so I don't lose my finish on the handle?
  10. In my case 8t hasn't worked at all. I've given it up to three layers and nothing. I don't know if my can is too thin. Or too thick or maybe I'm doing something wrong but it's not working.
  11. That peeled off beautifully.... I bought titanuim dioxide at 16% when I have a chance to make a cannister I'll let you know how it comes out! But yours is master level. Haha
  12. We'll just have to see if your theory is true. Let's hope so.
  13. HI jerod, I was reading your post. And I got my hands on some Tio2 at 16% you think this would work better than killz? Based on my limited math skills I think it should. Right?
  14. Yes! That is a good consideration. I will take it into account in the future when forgind Damascus! Thanks!
  15. Hi all so I've successfully made Damascus steel but I was wondering how the normalizing quenching Temps work. For example I made 1080/1095 cannister Damascus. What temp do I use for thermo cycling the 1080 o the 1095 Temps? Also I've made 15n20/1095, 15n20/5160. What parameters should I use?
  16. Hi all, So I'm opening this topic up for debate... I'm starting to make kitchen knives (chefs knives) and was told 1060 was a great steel to make them. I'm also thinking of making them Damascus so I was thinking 1060/15n20. What are your thoughts on this steel for forging chefs knives and what other type do you think is better and why! We need to keep in mind availability, price and difficulty in forging tempering etc.
  17. I will keep all of this in mind! Thanks Dan
  18. Hey jerrod. Well I did everything by the book. The jig was perfectly even. My finds were as well. I mean not down to the .0001 of a millimeter but very very honed in. My quench went perfectly. As a matter of fact when it took it out of quenching it was straight! It started warping on the grind. And I believe it's because of what you said. I should have tempered to at least 300 o 350.
  19. I will keep that in mind for my next project. Maybe it started warping cause I hadn't tempered it. And you're right I might have had to temper to release the stress. And instead it released it in the ginder. But I did use a slow grinding speed. Lesson learned. Ahahah Thanks again for all the comments and helpful tips!
  20. I believe I believe everything you said is true. So in summation... 15b20 gets treated as the steel it has been welded to. In this case I think I have identified my mistake. When I requenched I didn't do the 3 cycles. And the blade was thin enough that it wanted to warp decause not only did it warp to one side but it became concave from hilt to spine. Well. Off to try again, it was only to be expected for my first time. Trial and error I always say. I'll save this Damascus billet to make some fossil Damascus in a can. Tha
  21. I understand perfectly. But we need to remember we do put a lot of stress into the steel when forging and even more being Damascus steel. That's why the high temp the 3 cycles and the bringing the tem down with each cycle. It has actually proven to be a faultless technique with my other blades. I actually developed a quick guide for treating steel with Alan Longmire's "supervision". Check it out, it can be very helpful it's printable and I have it next to my oven to look at when I'm doing this if I don't have the schedules programmed into my evenheat kiln.
  22. I use this little miracle I found, I know it's not gonna be totally accurate but it skated right off on 60 and bit in with the 65. So I say 60 but it might be in between.
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