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Paul Checa

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Everything posted by Paul Checa

  1. Hey Alan! So I did 3 normalizing cycles 1. 1650 and cooled in air 2. 1600 and put it in the jig and let it cool 3. 1550 in the jig again Quenched at 1565 in 150º cooking oil and straight to the jig. And this was all in my evenheat oven And the second time I hardened I normalized once at 1550 and them quenched. Maybe I should have done the 3 cycles again right?
  2. Thanks vlegski! BillyO caught my drift a bit better. It was a mere 216 layer Damascus nothing fancy. I did my thermal cycling perfectly but I did it to suit the 1060 steel, here's where I get my doubts. Maybe 15b20 needs different treating than 1060 and I'm either quenching too hot, Or too cold. In waiting for a response from the forum I started messing around with the knife pre tempering. (it was at 60 hrc) so I wanted to leave it as such to get a great sharpness. But in my lack of patience I broke it. So we might think this discussion is no longer a moot
  3. Hi all, So I started doing my first chefs knife, a Damascus 1060/15n20. But I found it to warp a LOT. I left it a bit thick for quenching but I saw it warping since the normalizing (I treated it like 1060 steel) maybe that was my mistake. So when I quenched it I quickly put it in my straightening jig and let it cool there and it was straight. But when I started grinding it started to warp I was cooling the blade in water and that started to make it curve. But I wasn't letting it get hot. That's what has me wondering.. Do any of you know where I took a misstep or what I shoul
  4. Thanks so much! I'll take a look! I do t know if a bed frame is as hard as quenched high Carbon steel. But let me take a look and I'll let you know after testing! Thanks again Paul!
  5. Awesome. Thanks so much! Yeah I found that annealing and then drilling helped but for some reason (that I found out in this post) the instability of the mount and lack of rigidity was making me chip my bits. I actually tried to drill a 3/16 carbide and securely fastened it and made it so it was soooo rigid it wouldn't move an Inch and by calculating the force nearing the end of the hole I was successful on 4 holes! So for now we got a proved experiment. Next it's the cobalt test. I'll let you guys know how it went! Thanks to all! PD. I'll check those suppliers f
  6. Yes that's pretty much what I do, and now I don't feel so bad that I break them in the exact same place someone else does. Hahaha. I'm gonna try the cobalt. And if that doesn't work I'll go back to the carbide with a lot more rigidity in the mounting and I'll be even more careful. Thanks
  7. hi alex, i had replied but for some reason it didn't send. thanks so much for your comment. i will try with cobalt bits to see if it will help me out, do you have a brand of choice that you can send me a link to buy, i normally use 3/16, 1/4, 1/8. i can only find 3/16 y 1/4 in mexico, thats where im from, and they are Makita brand. i dont personally know how good those are, but i would rather buy where you have had good experience from. would you be so kind to share your supplier? thanks so much!!!
  8. Hi all, Im in diré need of your recos for a great tungsten carbide drill bit I've bought all brands and they keep breaking. Before you ask, yes I've taken all the precautions and still can't find ones that do the job right. Some will work for a couple of times and then break. If you could send me the link to your favorite bits I'd owe you big time. I'm looking for 3/16 and 1/4. Thanks.
  9. Thinking about what you said, you are right. I do actually have my dies made out of mild steel. I will make the squaring dies of mild steel as well and save the H13 for the next step which will be a power hammer. Thanks so much for your input!
  10. Could you elaborate? I was thinking on dividing the slab in half to make 1 die of one size. And wanted to start with this size. But wanted to know how much the canister squishes to forge weld the steel inside. The thing is I don't have any more H13 to make the set. That's why I ask.
  11. Hi all, if I'm buying 2 inch canisters for my Damascus how many inches do you think I will have to compress them to forge the steel inside? 1/8 1/2 3/4 1 inch? This is so I know what size to make the squaring dies.
  12. So I'm etching my blade with a rechargeable small battery that I bought it has a 12v output. My question is, can I use a more powerful battery to etch quicker and deeper? If there is something better? please let me know because also I've noticed that it's not quite smooth on the inside of the etching unlike other etches I've seen. I don't have one to show now but it looks grainy. I do use vynil sticker to keep a nice clean etch.
  13. hello all, I have made a quick guide for treating steel including.... different Steel Types Normalizing Quenching Tempering Forging with temperatures, times, and tips for best forging results. I hope it is as useful to you as it has been to me. downloadable and ready to print. Quick Guide For Treating Steel.pdf
  14. Hi all, Has anyone ever used one of these presses for forging? Does it work? Is it a good alternative so I don't spend a lot of money on a regular press? Can I have your feedback please? https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html Thanks a million.
  15. so you'd go for 1080 for kitchen knives??
  16. Hahahaha of course I'm not. I am more sarcastic from what I can tell. Hahahah
  17. You rock! Thanks so much now I have some lite reading for this quarantine haha
  18. HI Charles do you have another way to access this? It seems it's not working... Maybe Dropbox or Google drive? Thanks!
  19. what would you use??? so far based on previous answers from other smiths (and you) i'm between 1080, 1084, 80CrV2, O1 it all depends what i can procure... im sure 1080 and 1084 will be no problem to get but i don't know.
  20. Thanks so much. I'll be on the lookout for leaf spring. And if there's anything worth trying I'll give it a go!
  21. So I should try to get my hands on some 1084 you guys would recommend? I'll see which I can get, Mexico is tough to find steel
  22. So after reading all of your recommendations mor questions have arised... Maybe someone can clarify for me... If higher carbon content hardens more and makes for a sharper blade why is 1084/1080 or even 1070 better for kitchen knives if 1095 has much higher carbon Content. I have so much to learn
  23. Thanks! I will try to get a hold of one of these. 15n20 is out. I Have never been able to find it... And for easier forging and quenching which one of those would you go for?
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