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Paul Checa

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Everything posted by Paul Checa

  1. Thanks for your replies! So I guess O-1 is my best option for replacing 1095 if I don't find 5160 or 15n20 or something more common.
  2. Hi guys, I have a question I'm only getting D2 and O1 steel in Mexico where I live to make knives has anyone made knives with this type of steel? Is it good? Do you recommend them? Should I keep looking for other types? What are the pros and cons of these types? If they are good which one of these would you use? Any other info you'd like to share? Are they any good for damascus? If they are good for damascus Do they work well with 1095? Thanks!
  3. I will check it out... The thing that might crew me is the weight. Shipping might go through the roof. Thanks!
  4. Hahahaha it did... Not only in this but in other subjects that were quite clear. Not decalescence though Alan explained that to me perfectly as I read he did to you too! I'm gonna try to get my hands on some 5160... But it's kinda hard here in Mexico. If not I'm just gonna have to keep on practicing with the 1095 I've got. I don't think it's too bad from what I read in your post it's just the quenching right?
  5. Hi all, So I've been making knives with 1095 steel and I'm wondering if you recommend I use another type of steel or To stick to this type to get more experience on forging, normalizing, quenching, tempering, sharpening, and once I get better change steel types?
  6. I do pass magnetic... The thing is I thing I overshoot every time... I'm overheating that's what we deducted on previous posts cause I go for bright yellow instead of cherry read or orange.
  7. Yes I normally do 3 heat cycles to critical temp and cooling in air temp in sand... But I guess I did heat it too much as well. (I don't have another way to do it that is not by color) I use 1095 steel i leave it for a even heat but I'm gonna do the pipe for a More even heat usin wood coal to withdraw any oxigen. Perfect will do that. Thank very much. Cherry red right?
  8. How's this one in the pic? I'll weld it shut on the other end. Or is a thicker one better? Wood charcoal or mineral charcoal? I'll swap it for cooking oil then (also heated to 200º F?) One last thing... Should I wait for the pipe to be up to temp and then put in the blade cold and let it heat up or let it all come to temp together from the getgo? And it's too bad you don't have that unplugged recorded it would have been like taking a semester of forging college... I would have payed for it! And probably many more people.
  9. I will wait for night and do it then cause my shop is very well lit! And will aim for cherry red or dark orange. Thanks a million!
  10. You are a master! I did absolutely over heat my blade then, hahaha which proves I am over eager and like to over do everything. I will take this into account and will not over heat my steel next time... Is there a color I should be aiming for so I don't repeat my mistake? Should I use a pipe and put my blade in to evenly heat it? During my forging should I stay in what color so I don't over heat as well? Do you have a link to the knife making unplugged class I'd love to see it!
  11. 1095 steel, just guided myself by color (bright yellow) quenched in 200º motor oil
  12. Hi guys, so I was making a dagger and did 3 heat cycles at critical temp then quenched and tempered the blade for 3 hours at 350 F I was fitting the handle and guard and I twisted too Hard and the hilt snapped so I lost the blade. I'm attaching to show you my grain structure to see if it was properly treated (so I can learn something from this loss) I broke the blade in half so I could see the structure in the middle as well. Please comment below how you see the structure
  13. Hi guys, so it's my first attempt at a San mai blade but I don't know if the gaps in between my bullets are too wide. Can you take a look at them and let me know. I wouldn't want any cold shuts or delams. Thanks!
  14. I guess this one it is... There go my savings... Hahha Excellent then I'll have to get this one! Thanks a bunch
  15. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253728223630 How's this one?? It looks decent to me... But you guys are the experts... The ones I've seen like this are quoted in 2k usd.
  16. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273781073494 Would you buy it? Thoughts?
  17. I will! Can I get your email, I'll get your number then and call you after easter break. I also have a treadmill motor I need to see what that has inside maybe that will work and I can save some money.
  18. If I have a speed adjuster it helps right? The thing is I'm tired of slow I have one that takes me foreeeever hahaha. But here's the million dollar question what do I want. Torque or speed? Or both. Should I just hook it up to a mustang and floor it? Hahah just kidding.
  19. Excellent Allan I'll make sure it's totally enclosed and fan cooled but do I want a 3600 rpm motor though? Is that good?
  20. Wait wait not so fast... What's vfd nema 4x and tefc. Where would you buy this motor Wayne? I found one on ebay but I don't know if its the one. I found a 2 hp 3600rpm 2 speed motor.
  21. One more thing guys... What type of motor do you recommend to use for the grinder? Horsepower rpm (min and max) speeds, etc. Thanks! Thanks!
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