Chris Christenberry

I looked into cutting the cast iron shroud to gain access, but not only would it be a horrible mess, I'm still not sure it would give me the access I need. I'd need a mighty long Allen Key to do the work. Naw, I'll stick with my 12" sander. Never used it for metal working before, don't need one now. I've got this beautiful 2x72 that will do anything I need for now. But thanks for the suggestion.

Actually, Randy, it is an older Delta Mod# 31-120. Finally located an "old-timer" from the Delta company who told me it was definitely a 3/4" shaft. I so doubted him that I had to take the time to tear mine down and sure enough............. I was right!!!!!!!!!!! It's a 5/8" shaft. Oh well, the way my sander is built made it impossible for me to be able to reach the Allen Screws on Josh's disc so I can't use it. Bummer!!!!! Would loved to have that heavier disc.

I'm considering that, Josh. I don't know if there would be any disadvantage to modifying this 12" Delta disc sand to a 9" or not. Not sure what the spindle size is on my sander, but I'll check.

Have to admit I've been tempted to make a trade with someone. The 12 inch is a "must have" in a furniture builder's shop. Knife makers, not so much.

Ha-ha, made me go look it up! Never heard of Rinowet before. 9x11 sheets won't cover my 12" disk sander's platen.

Thanks for that. Maybe that's been my problem, Alan. I've always just relied on the adhesive applied to the back of the paper at the factory. Was always hesitant to use additional adhesive for fear it would stick FAR too well.

I have to admit I have a love/hate relationship with my disc sander. I can't seem to find the happy mid-point of "paper sticks well to disc" and "paper stuck so tight to disc I can't get it off". So I've most often a tiny area that pulls free and that makes it almost impossible to grind perfectly flat items like a knife blade that don't get hit by that loose "flap". At this stage in my knife making journey, I prefer my 2x72..................though I need to install a glass platen so I can let the belt run on the platen and not have that minuscule gap. I think that's why I have a couple of divots in this blade that are resisting my hand sanding. Enough talk. Headed to the shop to continue the destruction of my poor old hands..................though it is a bit easier with the blade stationary as was suggested.

Please, please, please, if anyone on this forum ever hears me even HINT I'm thinking about making another one of these, just shoot me, would you? This has been a most unpleasant journey. My little wife says she can't believe I've the patience to put in the hours of tedious hand sanding it takes to do this. (that's funny because I can't believe it either!!!!!) I plan on starting the 220 grit tomorrow. From here on in, as everyone who's ever gone through this process knows, it goes quicker and quicker with each new grit. I plan on taking this all the way to a 25 micron paper...........mirror finished. (like I used to do with my hand plane blades)

Nope, Tormek was never in my banking account's range. Besides, I never put blades to a wheel...........even hand plane blades. I've talked several of my wood carving students out of wasting their money on them. We sharpen by hand only. I pulled the pivoting part of the jig off the support portion and put it in a vise. Using a hard backer behind my paper I've been able to 99% finish the 120 grit step. This blade has been hardened to 62 RC, so it's not yielding very quickly.

Do you mean something like this, Billy0? It's fun being on a forum with so many other inventive minds. Kind of like being a member of a "think tank". Since I have sworn never to make another of these blades.................I'm thinking I'll take the swiveling part of this fixture off it's pivot post and clamp it in a vise so I can use the magnets to hold this blade firmly and hand sand with a hard backer just like I do my regular blades. By the way, this fixture produced too many divots that have been real buggers to hand sand out. Not sure why though. I figured this jig would eliminate the possibility of that problem coming up. Handy little jig, though. There was no way I was going to be able to put a 2" long curved taper on a .040" thick blade by hand.

I've been "away" from the forum for some time and missed this project. It's an amazing piece Aiden. I truly admire your creativity. Don't know if I'd been willing to "step back in time" and try and create a knife and sheath in that fashion. I'm too attached to my modern tools...............and still complain because I don't have all the tools I'd like to have. You, sir, are an inspiration.

I used a magnetic jig to grind the long bevel on the blade. Since I have vowed I'll never make another one of these round knifes (what a hassle it's been) I might consider taking the jig apart and clamping the magnetic portion that's holding the blade in my vise. Thanks for setting the gears in my mind turning. But addressing my original question..............I guess there's no magic wand or special trick that's going to keep me from hand sanding bevels, right? My mind keeps going to that Damascus maker in Ukraine who has an automated blade sander. Shurap, I believe his name is. If I'm ever going to make a "go" of this knife making, I guess I'm destined to have to "pay my dues", huh!!!!!

Actually, Alex, I'm attaching my paper to a granite plate and using my fingers to press down on the blade. I can't hold it any other way. I don't want to clamp this one in my vise and free hand it.

Absolutely, Alan. Gold Pin Stripes. Just what it needs. Will make it work 100% better.

I'm making a leather workers round knife for my pickiest customer. (me) That long bevel is taking so much time to sand that I'm honestly wondering if there is a proper alternative to accomplish the same thing. All my fingertips and both thumbs are completely numb right now and I'm not even completely through the 120 grit yet. The 2x72 grinder left some "microscopic dips" that are killing me trying to sand out. I used a 220 grit belt hoping to alleviate some of the grit marks, but I'm even having trouble getting those out with 120 grit water paper. This blade has given me a whole lot more respect for those of you who specialize in Chef's Knives. To put my complaint in context, I've just finished a four hour hand sanding session and have had to toss in the hat for the day. I honestly see a good two hours ahead of me tomorrow before I can confidently go on to the next grit. Is there an alternative way to get this sanding done or am I just bitching too much and should shut up and "Pay my Dues"?