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Chris Christenberry

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About Chris Christenberry

  • Birthday 06/23/1945

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  • Location
    Central Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Firearms, camping, photography, wood carving, and now smithing.

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  1. Thanks, Kerri................encouraging words. Made some more money on the sale of knives, stropping paddles and sharpening kits in class today. Another little "acorn" for the anvil stash! I'll have enough saved for that 200 pounder some day. Just hope that day comes sooner than later. "I shall persevere!"
  2. Every forum I make a comment on that's related to smithing, Wayne always chimes in to sell me something. I've already bought all my refractory materials from him. I've gotten to where I just ignore his posts, Alan.
  3. Wow. I don't remember mine EVER looking like that..........though I'm sure it did at one point in it's life. My employees literally destroyed it. They threaded nuts on bolts and whacked'em with a sledge hammer to lock them onto the bolt. They straightened bolts they'd bent. They beat and pounded on this old anvil just because it didn't belong to them. Funny how employees tend to do that. Good lookin' anvil, Jeremy. Take good care of that beauty.
  4. It was discussed, but not enough interest. Jerrod, they make swage blocks and have tried a couple of runs of anvils...................but they aren't happy with their setup for heat treating, so the anvils project has died for now. Not a bad lookin' anvil, though.
  5. Kerri, I've looked at the Sea Robin. Tempting except for the cost. As far as renting/leasing the fellows shop........................that's not really a consideration for him. Everyone in our club has tried that. It's a "no go". Every evening before I left, I grabbed a broom and swept up around where I was working............put all the hammers and tongs away and generally spiffed up the area. But as you mentioned most people won't do that. I also stuffed a Twenty in his pocket each evening as I left for my use of the propane, lights, anvils, forges, tongs, power hammers and hydraulic presses. He always protested vehemently and on the third evening he threw the bill back at me and hollered "I don't need or want your damned money!...............put it in an anvil fund. I've got my shop space here at home all set up. "Gasser" is almost finished, and as you can tell from my avatar, I've an anvil and stand. I have yet to build/buy a 2x72 belt sander, but I'm pretty much fitted with most everything else because I'm already making/selling wood carving knives. My attitude is I'll work with what I have until I can afford what I want. The journey continues.
  6. Well, that's without a doubt the nicest Vulcan I've ever seen. Wish mine looked that nice. Don't know if it was you or someone else, but someone has taken mighty fine care of it. Congrats.
  7. I've watched a lot of those "primitive" blacksmith videos. Amazing what those fellows can do, indeed. Here's what the top of my anvil looked like after I first cleaned it up. Hadn't touched the top yet. Please don't comment on the edges..............it's a Vulcan after all. And after all the hammering on the cold plate. I think it looks a lot better. And yes, I realize I can make a knife blade on it. It's just so much more rewarding to play a Vivaldi concerto on a fabulous old French violin than it is a cheap Chinese rental instrument. I'll work with what I have until I can buy what I want. I"m sure there are people in the world who would consider this old Vulcan a real treasure, so I shouldn't put it down, I guess.
  8. My 50# Vulcan came from my business. It's been around, as far as I know, since about 1965......................don't know exactly. Our employees completely abused it. It would be an embarrassment to even show a picture of it here on the forum. Let put it this way. If I saw a For Sale sign on it, I'd walk right by while looking the other way. But even though the top is level, it has hammer dings, bolt dings............and God knows what other kind of dings. The only thing I've done to it is to lay an 1/8" plate of mild steel on it and beat the tar out of it. It's helped smooth it out a lot and I imagine as soon as I start putting hot steel on it, it'll smooth out a lot more. It will hold me until I can get a "proper" anvil. Besides, I'm not going to ask it to do any serious work. I'll just make leaf key chain fobs, fire-pit pokers, coal rakes, and the like. Nothing like trying to make nice knives.
  9. Please explain dressing of the anvil, Bruno. I know to dress hammers (and have done all of mine) but have always been told not to touch the top of the anvil with a file or any other cutting tool. The price on this is so reasonable it comes with the caveat of "if you ever decide to sell it, I want first chance"...........so I would feel like some kind of "heel" if I tried to profit from it selling it back to him. So it sounds like the anvil wouldn't increase in value as time went by. Not sure how I feel about that scenario. Zeroen, I'm so new to this that some of the things you mention are things I'd not thought about. I want to primarily make blades...............but general smithing goes along with it, so I'll need a horn of some sort, I think. Thanks, Alan. I'm a member of Saltfork Craftsman ........a sub-division of ABANA. Initially, I was participating in an "open forge" on Thursday evenings. Did that for about 6 weeks and then the fellow who was offering his shop to all of us shut it down. He'd been doing it for so long he was worn out and doing that and all the duties he had in the local association had pushed him to his limit. He shut it down and I've no place to keep learning until I get my "gasser" up and running and can work in my own facility. That's kind of the reason I've been so pressured into getting a better anvil. All of his anvils are really good ones, unlike my measely little Vulcan.
  10. I sure hope you do a full length video of that one. I've never carved wooden spoons, but have been watching tons of videos about the process so I can guide this particular student on that path. In most of the videos I watch, they are using very small specialized carving axes such as this one. All that I find on-line for sale are outlandishly priced (probably not for hand made heads, though) and no student of mine is going to put out that kind of money for one. But I'd love to be able to make one I can put out for loan...............which happens with a lot of my carving tools. One of these days, if I can ever get far enough in my savings, I want to attend your new school. As I've always told you, your videos have helped me a lot. I can only imagine what a week in your forge facilities would be like!
  11. I've just been offered a 149# Mouse Hole that looks to be in pretty good shape. Is that a good anvil for bladesmithing?
  12. Well, Jerrod, at this stage of my learning experience, I don't have personal preferences/style/technique. I've only had 6 evenings at an anvil and none of them forging blades. The wood carving knives I presently make are "stock removal". Which is why I'm asking questions. Now THAT looks like a Hoss. I like the mass under the top like that. Sure don't see many anvils like that. Well, my anvil is mounted on a 20" diameter stump and recessed 3/4" into the top. There's a lot of mass there. And there's no walking or bouncing involved. I'm happy with the setup, just wishing for a much larger anvil.
  13. Thanks, Alan. I've read that thread before. Doesn't really answer my question of what is considered a bladesmith's anvil. I've got the common rail-road rail "anvil". Call me a snob, but all it's really good for is to straighten bent nails. Of course, I have to admit what I did was have the top of the rail ground flat. I've since learned I should have turned it on end and used the flat of the top rail as my anvil................but that's just an ASO. Don't want an ASO, want an anvil. Just don't have any idea what style works best for a bladesmith. Some will say "any hard, flat surface" and others have serious opinions. I'm seeking the latter. My Vulcan will work for me until I find what I'm after. Just wanting opinions.
  14. If this question has already been asked/answered, I couldn't find it in a search. Is there an "ideal" style of anvil for a bladesmith/blacksmith? I know the old saw-tuner's anvils are often referred to as a bladesmiths anvil. I've heard people say they have purchased TFS Farriers anvils and they work nicely. Of course, there are those smiths (who have a ton of money) who use German style double-horn anvils like Refflinghaus. I'm on the "search" that most blacksmith/bladesmiths start out on for a nice anvil. Presently I have a 50# Vulcan with about 65% rebound. Not what I want, but what I have. So I've been on the journey everyone eventually makes, looking for an anvil. Just missed out on a 132# anvil I really wanted, but the seller sold it out from under me the night before I was supposed to make a 10 hour drive to buy it. That's life, I guess. So the quest continues. So does a farrier's anvil make a good one for a bladesmith, or would it be better to have a wider face than that for this kind of work? (like a double-horn, German style) If I buy new, I'm going to be pretty much limited to a 100 pound anvil because of available funds. Is a 100# anvil "more than suitable" for a bladesmith or would heavier be better? I don't ever see myself forging blades larger than say a Camp knife for instance. From what I've read and people I've talked with, I get the idea that something between 150 and 200 pounds is where I want to be looking. So can any of your more experienced bladesmiths make some suggestions? Am I thinking correctly with the opinions I've stated, or am I way off?
  15. I'm looking at the Coleman 4-D. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find the amperage it draws. But thanks for the tip.
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