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Chris Christenberry

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Everything posted by Chris Christenberry

  1. This has worked well for me when I want to replace those stupid Californicated "safety" gas can spouts. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-pour-hi-flo-replacement-spout?solr=1&cm_vc=-10005&st=Gas Can Spout
  2. Sure, but those nozzles only fit that G.I type can, I think.
  3. Okay, thanks. That's what I did, actually, Alan. Figure out the answer to my own question by trying to blacken a handle I'd put BLO on about 6 months ago. Much easier to blacken "before" than "after".
  4. Thanks, Jennifer. I really meant to make a more flat-sided handle when I started. Just didn't end up that way! However, it may be hard to see the handle actually is pretty much flat-sided. I think I'd like a handle just like your Cross Peen in the second picture because handles tend to twist in my hand.........or at least my blacksmith hammers do. I'll probably bring that swell in the center down a little bit. And yes, the handle drift was positioned so the face of the hammer was at a 7 1/2 degree angle................so it was absolutely intentional. I have blackened two of my handles in the forge and really like the feel. I did the blackening on unfinished handles. I plan on blackening this one. Should I do it before applying Boiled Linseed oil..............or after?
  5. Well I made the handle. I'm kind of embarrassed to show it to anyone. Doesn't look anything like any blacksmiths hammer handle I've ever seen. On the majority of Dog's Head Hammers it looks as if the maker used a "Tomahawk" handle..........just straight. This looks more like a carpenter's pin-nail hammer with a thinner neck. I've always liked thinner necks on hammers because they allow the head to whip a little and they also don't seem to transmit vibrations back up the arm to the user, which I believe contributes to what many call "Blacksmiths elbow".........or Tendonitis. Of course, that's just my (uneducated) opinion. As good as the handle feels in my hand, I think I'll post a picture of it before actually installing it to see if there are any "no-no's" I've committed. Originally I was going to shape the handle on my new belt grinder, but I didn't have a belt that did well with wood, so I used what I'm most skilled with, knives and a spoke shave. I like the faceted surface and only hit it lightly with a 220 grit 3-M pad to slightly soften the facet edges. For reference, the handle is 12" long from the heel to the top. I would appreciate any critique on this handle before I make it permanent. I've honestly not swung a hammer enough to see the flaws that you folks can probably spot right off, so don't hesitated to comment.
  6. Well, it's been an interesting journey. but this is my first hammer head. It's a whole lot different from the picture in my first post of this thread. Not real purdy, but kinda cute. Here's my Dog's Head Hammer Head in all its shining glory. 3 1/4" long. Butt end measures 1"x1 1/4", head upset to 1 3/4". Weighs 1 1/2 pounds. Now to find some Hickory for the handle.
  7. I hate to tell you guys this, but the same law that cause the change in gas can nozzles also made manufacturers change the threads that hold the nozzles on the cans. So older nozzles won't match the threads on the new cans. Can't just go out and buy an old style nozzle and get it to work. Did I mention I've been there and done that?????
  8. Beat me to it, Clifford! Gary, I always enjoy watching your projects.
  9. I really wanted the Atlas but just couldn't wait for them to hit the market. I ended up with a 100 pound Fisher and am very happy with it. But If I were looking for an anvil today............................the Atlas would definitely be in my sights.
  10. Glad to hear yu are home now. No fun having surgery and certainly no fun having the pains you don't completely understand afterwards. Going through something similar myself, so can relate. Hang in there, Randy and as you say, you'll get there.
  11. Yep, Jerrod, I think it's going to turn out to be a really nice anvil............as has been most everything he's put out on the market. Unfortunately, his offerings are a bit pricey! (for my pocket book, at least)
  12. No. This material (unknown) air hardens if left out exposed to air. In the vermiculite it doesn't seen to do that as much. I'm still working on the hammer head. So after I finish forge work for the session, I just put the hammer head in the vermiculite to let it cool down slowly. Takes a good 12 hours to do so. When I finally get through with it, I'll just leave it out in the air and let it air harden. It'll be plenty hard enough for hammering. If not, well, then I'll put it in oil. The 1/4" sample I tested in oil hardened all the way through and snapped into three pieces when I hit it with a hammer.
  13. Looks well planned and well built. Good for you!
  14. Sorry to hear that, Doug. I'm real picky about who I let see my shop............woodworking or smithing. I don't let a lot of people inside my shop, to be honest.
  15. TFS makes a really nice Double ender that weighs in at 200# and sells for around $1,200. I've used it. Nice anvil. http://www.texasfarriersupply.com/categories.php?cat=41
  16. Don't think our group has one, but I'll ask. Oh, and it's not nice to do that to a newbie. Thanks, Jennifer................I didn't know that. DUH!!!
  17. What shape would you recommend I use on a Dog's Head hammer?
  18. I'm sure Mark's books are wonderful to have............but there's no money for that right now. I just puckered today over spending $10 for a couple of 5 gallon buckets. When you say "both", can you tell me when I'd want a round hammer head hole?
  19. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!! My friend had and sold me two of these for $10. Look to be brand new. So now I've got my buckets. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.
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