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Chris Christenberry

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Everything posted by Chris Christenberry

  1. I'm as slow as Molasses in the dead of Winter in Northern Alaska............but I've got this latest knife just about ready to deliver. I yet need to wipe some finish on the stabilized handle. I sanded it to 1200 grit and hand buffed it, but I think it would benefit from a thin finish. I'm thinking 100% Tung Oil. I've used it quite a bit on my wood carving knives. Also ordered the maker's mark stamp for my leather sheaths today. They are about 3 weeks behind because of the Pandemic, so I guess I'll have to be patient. Here's the proof they sent me. Going to start on my first sheath as soon as I get this knife delivered. Gettin' my leather working "station" all set up.
  2. No doubt. Wish I had a drawer full of it!
  3. I like that Buckeye, Garry. Saw a nice handle recently with Buckeye Burl that was a knockout!!!!!
  4. That's really going to look good when you get it finished. All of you folks here on the forum just keep raising the bar.
  5. Well someone may come along and disagree with me, but the way I see it, a leg vise is primarily a Blacksmiths tool. A machinist's vise is more suited to bladesmithing. The leg vise's jaws don't come together completely perfectly like a machinists bench vise. Two different vises for two different purposes. Just my take on the matter.
  6. Not necessary, Alan, but thanks. What I'm really trying to come up with it something like this: Not something like a written explanation, but data about the knife itself. This one is okay for starters, but I'm wondering if some of you knife makers might have other things that you think should go on the certificate.
  7. Thanks, Garry. Thanks for the link, Jarrod, but I think his "Diary" is worth more than the knives I make!!!!! Anyone else able to contribute answers to my question?
  8. Not sure it this is the correct forum for this question, or not, but here goes: What kind of "paperwork" do most of you folks give to the customer with the knives you sell? I want to be able to show the customer what kind of steel and treatment is in the knife................what kind of wood or components in the handle, etc, and any other info that might be of interest to the purchaser. Do you have a card you simply fill out, or do you just put all that info on the invoice? I've done the latter...........but don't think that looks too professional. I'd like to work something up and have some cards printed. Any examples you'd like to share would be much appreciated.
  9. "Happy wife, happy life." "If Mamma ain't happy, ain't nobody gonna be happy!" I'm on my 4th wife, (two divorces and one death) and if I've learned nothing else, it's really nice to have peace in the home. "Yes dear." and "You are right, Honey." Both phrases do a lot to make that happen. That's why I've got ovens in my shop.............just so I don't ever have to use hers in the house.
  10. Thanks, Billy. I'll give that a try. I use a piece of 3/4" thick paper grade phenolic as my sanding block. I always get it wet and wet the back of my paper before applying it. I won't be able to get back to the project until later on this afternoon, but think I'll start with 20 minute etch cycles. The 3 10 minute cycles did very little as far as accomplishing what I'm after. This is my first time etching Damascus so I'm treading unknown waters here.
  11. Just checked my blade. It's black and white, alright, but I tested the "topography" on the handle end with my fingernail and there was none that I could feel! Shocked me. Is it true that in time, the "black" will rub off? If that's the case, then I need to go back to etching. Josh says he does 15 to 20 minute etch cycles...........but didn't mention how many. Anyway, I think I'll get back to etching this afternoon and see if I can't get some topography etched into the blade.
  12. Like it, Zeb. I'd sure like to see the handle carving closer-up now that it's finished.
  13. Alrighty then....................I completed 3 10 minute soaks in a 4:1 mixture. After the last one and a gentle swishing in Baking Soda water, I took a paper towel and washed the black off under running water. (what an idiot!) Didn't really realize it was really coming off until it was far too obvious it was coming off. Remembered in the back of my feeble brain someone suggesting not wiping, but patting it dry. So went back in for another 10 minute soak. Patted it dry..................dried it with a hair dryer and then sprayed it with WD-40. I'll leave it alone for tonight (I guess that's supposed to let the black "set") and start the higher grit sanding tomorrow.
  14. Well, I'm a newbie here also. I've nothing to compare how the forum is today vs in the past, but I couldn't be happier. I'm like a sponge. So much to learn and so little time left in which to do it.................with all the other things that continually go on in my "world". I'm a teacher and my students text and e-mail me all the time.................even though the school has cancelled our classes. I keep up with what they are creating and they ask a lot of questions. Being one who teaches, I appreciate one who teaches.........and there are many on this forum who share their knowledge.........willingly so. One in particular probably gets an involuntary "knee-jerk" when he sees a PM from me. But hey, what goes around, comes around. I'm sure it's not easy maintaining a forum, but I for one thank all of you who do the behind the scenes work.
  15. WHEW...........that's good to know. I don't guess there is any copper in the plain welding rod as it's just steel.
  16. Oh, I forgot to ask......................................... Does the material type of the rod used to hang the Damascus blade in the acid make any difference? I figured on using welding rod from my Oxy/Acetylene rig because it's so rigid. I also have brazing rod I could use.
  17. Alan, I'm assuming you mean to "stop the etch" with Windex after the etching is to a point I like and am completely finished with the acid.
  18. I've got the blade sanded as far as I want it to go. (800 grit) I'm not ready to start on it yet, but etching is the next process. Of course, I've got to clean it up first. I've done searches on the site until I'm blue in the face and can't find any threads about cleaning prior to etching. I know there must be threads on the subject but I never can find what I want on a search engine. Somehow never use the right words. Anyway, am I correct that all I need to do is soak the blade in Acetone and then take it out, let it dry, then wash it in Windex and rinse in distilled water? All the while it's on a wire and I'm gloved up with Nitrile gloves. Then I can start etching.....right? Then after I get it etched to the level I'm happy with, wash and wipe it with steel wool, pat dry and then apply WD40 so it won't rust. Is that right?
  19. Very, very enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing.
  20. I can reverse the leads in my equipment. I'll give that a try on a piece of blank steel and see what happens..............thanks.
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