Chris Christenberry

Lookin' good, Garry.

Well, I quit at 800 grit, like I said. I'm happy with it. I've been trying to find a way to make a resist so my maker's mark would be on non-etched steel. But this knife isn't about "me", it's for the customer. I like the way your mark shows...........but doesn't over power. I think I'll just do my etch on the knife and sand it down to 1000/1200 grit and then etch my mark. I think it'll look just fine. I don't know how folks get their marks to turn black, though. Mine is black until I wash it off. Then it's just an etched recess...........not that that is bad. It's just not what I'm used to seeing.

Sell the nicest of the two and send me the other. I'll put it to use. Nothing wrong with a little imperfection............only God is perfect!

Ya gonna use it or look at it?????

Nicely done for a first try, Garry. I've never attempted fullers. I'm impressed. With patience, I believe you could easily clean up anything that looks "hand done" to you.

Do you have an example of a blade that has been done that way? I've not been able to find anything concerning this.

Okay. Got it. I'm quitting at 800 on this one. I've got a slight problem. I electro-etch my maker's mark on knives. But not quite sure how to do that when I have to etch this Damascus. Should I use a resist the shape of my mark so I can etch my mark later?

Billy, what do you mean by this comment?

Very informative, Billy. Thanks. I, too, would appreciate hearing from other makers on this subject.

Wow, Billy, I've never heard of anyone going to that fine a grit before etching. Just an uneducated opinion here, but etching etches the steel and I'd think it would just etch into that fine a polish and "pull" it back to a previous grit. I have no idea where in the grit sequence that would be. After I get some more feedback for my original question, I'll do some research on the matter. I think we have a thread here on the forum about where most people stop in the grit sequence.

Sorry, Geoff, you are correct. It's a "full" tang. Not a through tang. (still say we need a "smack forehead" emoji !)

Thanks for the comments guys. It all helps. So much to learn...............such few years left in which to do it.

I'm working on my first Damascus project for a customer. It's a through-tang knife. (sure wish the customer had wanted a hidden tang knife!!!!!) I've got all the metal sanded down to 400 grit. (if I'm correct, that's pretty much where most of you say you'd quit sanding Damascus..........yes?) I've got the handle "bolted" to the knife right now for sanding and alignment. Its a stack-up of Red fiber liners, Stainless Steel liners and then a top layer of Curly Bubinga, two of each. Right now I've got all of that sanded down to match the Damascus knife handle profile to a 400 grit. So here's my question. After I etch the Damascus I shouldn't allow sandpaper to hit it again, should I? After I pin and epoxy the handle, I'm going to have to clean up the epoxy and adjust for any slight misalignment to make the handle a perfect fit like it is right now. That will require some sanding. So would you guys have any tips for me on how to keep from hitting the exposed tang with sandpaper during the cleanup? I keep "going forward" on this knife, but I'm really getting worried about that step.

Thanks, Alan. It says it's a "natural" linen cord. Does that mean it will stain easily if I don't want White? I noticed that wasn't waxed. If I want to dye it, it couldn't be waxed, could it? Reason I ask is I'm wondering if I should just buy the thread color of choice already waxed. ???

It was suggested I buy 1/0 harness needles to stitch sheaths. What size/type thread should I buy to go with those?

Going to kill that croc yourself, Garry?

I know a couple of FIF winners, Geoff and while they both laugh at the theatrics of the show, they both agree pretty much with what you've posted. Both have been on it a couple of times and highly respect the judges. One thing I've observed, though is they both "moved on" and never watch the show any more. Seems guys of my skill level like to watch it and those of you in the "mysteriously advanced realms" of knife making seldom watch it. It has brought a plethora of new blacksmiths/bladesmiths into our fold, and for that I'm thankful. I have a very high respect for the individual who holds a command of hammer and anvil. Originally, they built everything used to make a living or live life itself. The respect they deserve was well earned. I've talked with many old blacksmiths who lamented there was a time the trade and skills were die-ing out. FIF, if nothing else, has fanned the flames (no pun intended) of the resurgence of new blood.

That's really coming along nicely, Garry. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thank you, Pieter-Paul. That's the kind of stuff I'm trying to learn right now. I had just about decided the wrapped sheath wouldn't look too nice with a hand guard like the Buck has on it.

Title says "most" of it. I've got a new-in-the-box Buck #119. I inherited it from my Uncle, who died many years ago. The knife is so old that the price on the box was $20. I don't use it, but the thing I've always disliked about it was the (what I consider) ugly Buck sheath. Never liked the way the knife is retained in the sheath. So I've decided my first venture into the sheath making world will be a sheath that can be tossed in the trash if I mess it up and no-one will be able to complain. First thought was a wrap sheath like many of you make. But the more I look at it, the more I'm wondering if a stack sheath makes more sense because of the size of this knife. Okay............enough setting of the scene. My question is...........at what point would one switch from a wrapped sheath to a stacked one............or is size even a consideration in that choice????? What got me thinking about it was a video where Kyle Royer made a stacked sheath for a similar knife.

That's a useful tip, Alan, thanks.

Sorry it's taken me so long to respond. We've been out of town. Slowly gatherin' all the necessaries for this danged sheath makin' rabbit hole you danged-burn enablers sent me down. Was tryin' out some of my tools on a piece of scrap leather today and hit a puzzlement. When cutting the slot for the stitching.............does one wet the leather first? I tried both before and after and couldn't make up my mind which produced the cleaner cut. I could see the pricking irons seemed to work cleaner with the leather wet.

Well, to be honest, I quit drilling holes because I was running out of "meat" on the chunk of wood. Couldn't think of anything I'd be drilling such shallow holes for. Imagine I'll find some reason to drill more though. I don't think there's ever been a shop built that the owner made a statement like "Now I have more room than I'll ever need"....................only to fill it up quickly and need more. Same with a tool board!

OUCH!!! I watched a professional monogram artist sew her thumb into a sweatshirt one time. There was so much blood, you'd have thought a Pig had been stuck with one of Garry's Pig killers.

Well, I recently finished a Stitching Pony. And made a holder for the start of what I hope to be a small batch of leather working tools. I blame all you danged enablers for my progress!!