Chris Christenberry

No-no-no-no-no! No sewing machine in my future. I want to hand stitch.

Okay guys, thanks. I'd never heard of it before. I'll give it a try when I get to that point. Right now I'm making a wooden "rack" to hold all my tools and things. I'm the world's worst at keeping things (my tools especially) organized. So I always like to have a place for each of my tools so that that at least when I clean things up, I've a place for them. The owner of our local shoe repair loves knives and has given me space in his glass case to display any knives I'd like to sell. No commission. (can't beat that!!!) He has told me I can try out any of the dye type and colors he has so I don't have to run out and buy something I might not use. Has offered the same with edge dressings and such. I prefer alcohol dyes with my woodworking, so tend to lean that direction with the leather dyes. Is that the right direction to go?

I was recently "gifted" a Craftool Pro, 9-prong, Fine Diamond Chisel in 3mm, so today I bought a 1, 2 and 4 prong of the same brand. So now I've got my chisel set taken care of. (a "right nice" set, I think) Also bought a Size #3 Tandy Edge Beveler. (hope that was the right size for 6-7 oz shoulder) Also picked up a Tandy Multi-size Wood Slicker. With what I already have in the way of tools, I think I'm set to get started. I kept drooling over their swivel knives, but since I'm not really going to be doing that kind of tooling, I'm pretty sure I can get by with the wood carving knives I already have.

Just got home from Tandy's where I dumped a good portion of my "stash" meant for knife stuff. As I was putting on my helmet and jacket, the lady asked if I had any Gum Tragacanth for treating the edges of my sheaths before burnishing. I'm Mr. Clueless as to all the stuff I'm going to need for this "detour" of the knifemaking journey................so I told her to toss it in the sack. On the ride home I got to thinking................hurts when I do that ..............and realized I'd never heard one single one of you mention anything about this when you were showing the process in videos or talking on the forum. So is this something I really need, or did I get conned into spending another six bucks?

Looks good to me.

I've said it before and I'll say it again..................you've changed my opinion on Puukos! Dang that thing is purdy!!!

"Family re-furb"...............what an arrangement.

Dave, you and your wife (my assumption) did an absolutely magnificent job of bringing that old girl back to spit and polish shape. You are going to be the envy of the docks for sure. Very impressive.

OH WOW!!!!! That is so beautifully done. I agree with everything Alan said.

Thanks, Josh. I feel like a sponge trying to soak all of this up. As I've said a million times before, "I've a lot to learn here".

I've been watching a lot of videos and I've noticed higher polished surfaces and weaker dilutions of HCI (like 1:4) seem to produce more of what I think I want with this piece. I'll just have to get to a 1000 grit and see what happens.

Brian, I suffered the same lapse in good judgement and put some old "barn find" files in a tray of Muratic inside my shop. I probably cried tears similar to yours. My wood working tool table tops, which are typically kept in pristine condition, looked like rusty nuts and bolts left out in the weather after just being exposed to the fumes overnight. I was sick. Learned my lesson. I only have one item to etch, so don't really care to play the trial and error game. I know I like brighter Damascus blades, so will probably go with a 1:3 dilution of Muriatic and distilled water. From the Youtube "classes" I've been watching, I think I'll go with a more polished surface before etching. Probably an 800 to 1000 grit. Is that too bright? I know not to buff it. Strictly sand and clean.

Joshua, what is this "pool acid" called? I'm still in the house drinking coffee, but I think I've got something out in the shop that Dave Mooneyham suggested I get for descaling knifes after forging.

All things are difficult before they are easy.

What dilution do you use when using Muratic, Josh? I'm not attracted to the real high contrast Damascus. I've seen some that are practically black and white. Don't care for that at all. I think it takes away from the over all look of the knife......over powers it.

Hmmm. Okay, so it's just Ferric Chloride. Thanks.

I was mistaken...............Ed Caffrey uses PCB etchant. Where can that be purchased locally. I know Radio Shack probably sells it, but we don't have one within 150 miles of my house.

Thanks, guys. Keeping track of this thread.

Been reading a lot about etching Damascus. One thing I have found interesting is how many different opinions there are about etchants. There are differing opinions on which base acid to use. Some knifemakers use theirs straight, some mixed with various other liquids, from White Vinegar to distilled water. Was watching a video last night where Ed Caffrey uses Battery Acid mixed 1 part acid to 3 parts distilled water. I even watched on video where the maker was using straight White Vinegar. Only thing I found consistent was the use of Baking Soda mixed with water to stop the action of the acid. Confusing to a newbie. So do you have a favorite etchant? What brought you to that choice? Do you use the same etchant for all of your etching and just vary the time the Damascus is in the liquid? Do you use the etchant warmed or room temperature? Lots of questions, I know, but with so many variables being shown on videos, it's hard to know which direction to go.

Thanks for your comments, Mike. Much appreciated. You're just about the only person here who seems to have seriously put one through it's paces.

OH BROTHER, could I ever put one in THAT forum!

No need posting this twice, Peter. Your other thread is garnering answers.

Dang that's a pretty piece!

I know you are trying not to pay a competent repairman.........I get that. I used to repair violins, violas, cellos and basses. But believe me when I say I've seen the damage that can be done to instruments by competence. In my opinion, Epoxy would have to be applied thickly to hold the mouthpiece and would dampen vibrations of the Flute. Unless you are experienced (and you admit you are not) then I'd just take it to a qualified wind instrument repair shop.

Josh, I need to talk with someone who has control of this site. We desperately need a "green with envy" emoji!