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Matt S

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  1. Well, crap.....the heat treat schedule for W2 right on the link on the NJSB website specifies a first cycle of 1650f. Oops.
  2. I left the spine at basically the full 3/32, and too the edge to around .050". 1435 is probably a touch too cool for P50, I was planning on another brine/oil quench but chickened out. When I was heating my blades with the forge I would heat them to past magnetic 3x and then quench them. I was always keeping an eye out for the recalescence point and would quench them when the blade would just start to turn dull. I was also heating them edge up in the forge and trying to keep the heat concentrated at the edge with less attention to the spine. My oil was probably a bit
  3. I'm not inclined to think it's decarb, in my experience decarb is almost white without a visible grain like this, and a file skates all the way up the back of the heel. I am starting to question how much heat loss occurs at the oven door. In my experience excessive clay causes cracking and this blade had only a strip 1/4" wide by about .04" thick along the spine, but none on the spine, and thin, opposing, diagonal ashi lines coming down off of it. I don't think that would have retained enough heat to have been an issue, but who knows. The blade is a gyuto, and roughly 2" wide at th
  4. I've made a half dozen hamons on chef knifes heat treating my blades with a forge and never seen this happen, and it's an issue that has occurred without fail on every single attempt I have made to produce one with a Paragon oven. The steel is W2 from NJSB, I profiled, rough ground, heated to 1600F, 1475, 1450, 1425, 1400, each for 15 minutes, air cooling to black in between, clayed and quenched in warm P50 from 1435. On my first passes after tempering at 350 I could see a hamon than ran the length of the blade so I ground it out to completion and after 5 cycles of lem
  5. That was one of my qualms about it too. My answer to that was a slow oil. Of course I don't know what my upper and lower limits are on the cooling rate to avoid both of those things, if that's even possible, or if it's just one or the other with a block that that. In all honesty though I don't expect to be able to do them all in one shot. Even 4 at a time would be a tremendous increase in working speed, at at 1/16th thick per knife that only brings me to 1/4". People have made bowies and camp knives out of AEB-L about that thick. Mostly I was hoping for an answer along the lines of
  6. Too many blades? Heresy! Outsourcing is a no go for me, I need to incorporate heat treating stainless into my domain of competence. I think I may end up trying out my theory on the paring knives and see if I can get the HRC checked on at least 5 of them. To my, admittedly inexperienced mind, heat treating a bundle of AEB-L knives should amount to the same thing as heat treating a 1" thick knife. I may need to up the soak time some, but if it isn't so long as to be detrimental to the steel, I don't see why it wouldn't work out.
  7. I've been profiling knives from AEB-L for a few weeks now, and I'm about ready to heat treat them, that said I have a lot of them to do. 24 chef's knives, 14 petty knives, and 14 paring knives. Looking at the cycle times it would take me ages to do these individually, so a thought occurred to me-namely just to stack them on top of each other and do multiple at once. Then I got to thinking that air quenching a stack of blades 1" thick (if I tried to do the petty and paring knives all at once and the chef's knives 12 at a time), might take too long even with compressed air, and that the blades i
  8. Also, as a side note, when i was cutting my way through this thing, I hit spots that made sparks with what looked like 2 or 3 stacked bursts, and some areas with none, but generally the sparks had at least some minor burst to them.
  9. Slag, yes, though hard to tell the source of, I suspect the bricks themselves, one got melted pretty good, and another two sort of welded together at the seam. I did lose some during initial consolidation, it really did look more like a bloom than a puck, all sorts of scraggly bits everywhere, my guess is I lost about 2 or 3lbs there, I pulled it out weighing something in the ballpark of 10 lbs. As far as feed rate goes, I filled the stack with charcoal, and when it was burning throughout I began to add the punched pieces. The bricks were still slightly steaming at this point. I'd throw in a s
  10. I would post pictures with my phone, but it's a 5 year old s7 that's survived a double rollover and being dropped in the mud underground. The built in camera didn't have much resolution to start with, add some scratches to the lens and it just won't show much more than a blur in the place of detail.
  11. Lump charcoal, Maple Leaf brand, supposed to be a mix of maple, oak and beech. Electric blower, feed rate unknown, it's ancient and heavily worn, but it's fan is about 8" in diameter, powered by a 1hp 3000rmp motor, and has a 1 1/4" exit pipe. My furnace was stacked firebrick. 4 bricks lain on edge and overlapping to make a square tower. I went 5 rows high, with the air entering through the second row. The mass of metal was formed level with the air pipe, and did not form below it.
  12. Sorry in advance that I haven't got any pictures, (old camera, new computer, incompatible without adapter etc...), but i'll do my best to describe what I've got. I took 15lbs of mild steel iron worker punch outs, and using about 35lbs of charcoal melted them into a bloom, then went about consolidating the resulting bloom on the anvil with my 4lb. After about 4 hours of forging I have a rough cylinder 4.5" long, 2.25" in diameter that weighs about 4lbs. I cut all around and most of the way through it with a zip disc on a grinder, and broke it in two, polishing up one half and etching in ferric
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