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JohnK

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Everything posted by JohnK

  1. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Thanks for the tip brother. I wouldn't wait to long. Not that I'm one to talk. I looked for a burner assembly but that's a nada in good ole MS. The design I have (after way to many trial and failures) is pretty easy to build. Merely require's light welding to seal up the seams. Just got to make sure the exhaust tube is replaceable. It doesn't last more than a month.
  2. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Thanks for the tip Alan. Oil forges seem to get a bad rap with blacksmiths but so far it fits my style. Propane is pricy and solid fuel, besides charcoal, isn't feasible to get. I thought a lean burn meant less fuel? With my blower if I have to little there's no visible flame within the port It just glows reddish orange and absolutely no smoke. It's nice for light forging and the IR is tolerable. More fuel and there's definitely flame inside turning brick and steel bright yellow and some white smoke occasionally when the wind blows. Slightly more fuel than what i normallly run there's light co
  3. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    I didn't mind the schoolin' good sir. It seems I'm running the forge correctly then. I run it barely rich to where I see the occasion wisp of white smoke but nothing I can't easily tolerate. Honestly the IR from the blower and the opening are what bother me hahaha. I have noticed with my bar stock there are heaps of scale coming off of them as I hammer it out so I'm guessing it's probably some high carbon hotdog mess. It does harden though. Not a metallurgical major but I'd guess somewhere around 55 to 60. The file refuses to dig in and I've tested a few Barry Bonds up against the corner of my
  4. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    I never go over a mid yellow during forging and I never let it stay at temp for long. I think that's a good thing and also due to my impatience haha. Oil forges are finicky but I've found a nice balance that runs smooth and from what I noticed won't get to white unless I make it. Also, and I'm just guessing, wouldn't an oil forge or say rubbing charcoal on it from time to time during hammering add some carbon back?
  5. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Am I wrong to assume that would harm a future temper? I've heard rehardening and tempering is bad for steel
  6. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    @Brian They are 6" and 8" each so im not sure how much blade or say punch i can make. Also im very certain they are already tempered or at least the outside is. itll likely affect anything i make from them but i intend to find out! I am confident its good steel so thats a start.
  7. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Will remember kind sir! All the metal I use I'm confident isn't coated except the studs. Those are hot dipped in zinc. My apologies for also not clarifying "forge blower" indeed I do use them for fan blades but more importantly it forms the burner assembly. My oil burn chamber if you will. The thickness is spot on for quick start up and it doesn't degrade at all that I've noticed. Though now I know I'll have to do a burn out on them before using them to power my forge. Also the blue is simply epoxy paint. I suppose for rust prevention or trademark color since TAPCON is a brand of masonry fast
  8. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Thanks very much Alan! I don't fancy rebar in particular, just that I haven't had much trouble from it. Though since you mention mason nail I got to say yay to. I have, uhg, pounds upon. Any material that's left over and either can't be returned or isn't worth the hassle I get to keep. Usually at the request of my boss. I have oodles of tapcons but I'd assume either burning off the blue or knocking down the thread wouldn't be worth it. My forge blower is in fact made from left over 2x6 18g structural steel studs & track. I have no less than 200ft of it and it works pretty darn well at star
  9. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    That sir is of interest! Though now I feel shameful as I havent much pocket change to buy them so I'll have to resort to building myself a pair. Full disclosure nearly all of my stock is flat 5/16in x 1 1/2in bar and #6&8 rebar. Handful of structural 2ft x 3/4in end thread anchor bolts ect.... I work construction. Mostly commercial. Any steel generally encountered in that profession do you think would be preferable?
  10. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    What tong design would you suggest to handle flat stock or small billet in a small forge opening? Like an all around jack of trades type.
  11. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    Nice selection. I guess next I'll be making some u-box with a side hold notch. I would buy some but $$ and I like the satisfaction of making my own tools
  12. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    I appreciate that sir. Honestly any tong meant for a small forge port is why I chose my design. It's only 3x3inches and I like the get in there easy designs
  13. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    I'd like a picture of chain maker tongs please? All I keep seeing are pipe "tongs", the length of bar with a bike chain on the end for tightening pipe.
  14. JohnK

    Tongs I made

    I wouldn't consider it a good pattern for most any blacksmith but I chose it for the bite it gives when holding hot work. Not so great on cold. But I usually make small(under 12") so most of the item is hot and those teeth hold pretty darn tight.
  15. So I decided I needed tongs since fire is quite hot. Modeled after my favorite pair of pliars I was using for forging. Actually quite proud of myself on this. Snuck in my oil forge blower as well.
  16. I did consider that though using a paint can (lasts a few hours). It will hit welding temp and over in under 10 minutes. Using the same bricks. Also it has issue's with blowback though I know why. Could the tank itself be losing to much heat due to its surface area? It works fine for stock steel forging but that no fun. I can weld with a paint can but one can a day isn't very feasible. Haha Perhaps I could use it for a space heater?
  17. Propane tank. Possible to be to hot to heat? It looks hot but my steel is barely over orange. I don't get it
  18. Thanks guys for your support. I finally got it to work with a box style blower using metal framing track. It burns exceptionally! A 12 inch blue needle hot enough to melt the Devils bones! Sadly it leaks quite a bit so I'll need to find a welder but I'm quite happy I got it to work. I'll post pics on a new thread when I get it up and running
  19. Thanks for the support friends. I believe I've narrowed it down to fuel delivery. I've been experimenting with paint cans and they seem to do great. For a day. The cans themselves barely get hotter than a couple hundred degrees. Inside the stacked brick test forge I'd guess nearly 1800 to 2000. However it's quite finicky to start and run. At present the air is forced in from the top side and exits bottom opposing side. Would a bottom to top be better or perhaps perpendicular enter/exit? It runs for a while but after an hour it begins to sputter and occasionally extinguishes itself. I suspect f
  20. OK guys. I'm running out of ideas on how to make this work!!
  21. I'd totally appreciate that! I know it's stubborn to no just buy what's best but I like the feeling of building it myself. That I know everyone here can understand. I had planned on buying 3" nipple reduced to 1 1/2" as a way to accelerate the air. I know it'll assist in spray. Likely not atomization but once up to temp it should be fine. I've toyed with a pump version for a couple months but either it used way more fuel than its worth or didn't work due to a lean mix. I've seen guys using the design Im using but I'm not all thrilled about the noise of a shop vac or air compressor. Forging sho
  22. I have already tried I live in the south and well I dont believe anywhere around here has those. Even scrap ones. Just doesn't get cold enough. I bump shoulders with many hvac guys. None have even seen one.
  23. I think this would fix the issue. I think the air acceleration is low and the fuel is puddling on the back of the reducer and trickling down the pipe and cooling it.
  24. Am I wrong to assume the cfm isn't nearly as important as air pressure with forges? I have many squirrel cages that'll summon Satan using only wood. Not coal or charcoal. Wood. But does nothing for a waste oil forge(my many trial and errors). So I assume for waste oil the pressure is what's required to atomize the fuel or at least whip it around enough to make droplets. I do know hairdryers are designed for pressure more than cfm but logically it should work since my first did. I'm wondering if adding a 90 on the exhaust would help? Working to give more hot surface volume for the oil to vapori
  25. That sir I don't know how to calculate. They are both from hair dryers. The original was smaller but I'm not certain of the cfm( as it has since melted due to accidents). Though I wouldn't believe there would be much difference. Would more cfm produce better results? I know the chamber is heating to workable temperatures. Not enough air for what it really wants?
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