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PatF

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    San Jose, CA
  1. I forgot to mention, in use the knife feels pretty good and balances right around the choil. It's actually really nice to use in a pinch grip like a kitchen knife. Holding it in a hammer grip back from the choil it's a little front heavy. While I hadn't intended to make the handle quite as small as it is, one positive consequence is the edge is a bit lower than the handle which gives some knuckle clearance if using the knife on board or something. If it were thinner with a higher bevel I think it would make a pretty good camp knife in regards to food prep and such. As it is it wedges and brea
  2. Yup, I learned and now I can move forward and hopefully apply those lessons on future knives. I may need a new knife drawer.... About the handle, thanks! That padauk is beautiful. My next knife might have to be the reverse; orange on the outside with black in the middle. I know some people dislike the smell of working with ebony, neither my wife nor I thought it was bad and I thought it was almost pleasant. What that says about me I have no idea.... I have a piece of ironwood in the cabinet, looking forward to that outhouse smell, lol.
  3. Thanks! I had been making a few decorative tent stakes and some other steel bits and baubles, so this was my second blade but I still had a bit of time under my belt at my forge. I finally figured out how to get a neutral or reducing atmosphere in the forge, and that makes me happy. Next time, I'll be more patient, hammer it thinner, hammer in better (and steeper) bevels, hammer the tang a little longer rather than shorter, and give myself a little more material to work with on the handle. The long version is below: Mostly, and firstly, patience. I think it's overly thick, an
  4. I've received some great advice here, and I want to thank you all because I was able to make a thing that actually seems like a purposely built knife that mostly looks like what I intended it to look like! 1075, ebony, and padauk. I definitely learned somethings. I hammered the profile and hammered in the bevel then finished it up on a belt sander. I actually ended up heat treating it twice since after the first one I decided I could refine the shape in the forge more, so annealed and went back to work. I was much happier when I finished up the second time. From there I learned an
  5. Great advice all, thanks! As for the size, I'd have to check but yeah, the inside diameter is probably 12 or so inches. I'll have to cut it down to size anyway (it's longer than I would like for a forge) so I'll have plenty of spare sheetmetal with which to make other stuff. I hadn't thought of that, good idea. This sounds a lot like "you might as well build a nice forge and a water heater will do you well for quite some time, so just build the nicer forge instead of slapping some bricks together". So I think that's what I'll do, much appreciated!
  6. So walking our dogs the other day my wife and I came upon an abandoned water heater. We looked at each other and thought "Hey, that might make a nice forge". Considering I've been using 4 artfully stacked fire bricks and a propane torch any forge would be a nice upgrade, but a nice forge is always better. We found plans for a burner and I started thinking of the work that goes into cutting the tank, packing with wool, etc and a couple of thoughts occurred to me: The internal volume is going to be big and hard to heat/use a lot of gas, but I guess I could just stack bricks
  7. I’ve been working on a stock removal knife in 1075 for a while now. Going has been slow as filing has been taking for freaking ever. So I start and stop in fits. Lately however I’ve been playing around with an impromptu ‘forge’. It’s just a stack of firebricks and a handheld torch. It started off with a cloak pin I made as my wife is getting more and more into SCA related stuff. This led to making some hardware for a quiver, and just today I decided “You know what? Why not try making a knife blade out of one of the pieces of 1075 you cut off to make that other knife?”.
  8. Beauty, thanks. The guy with the forges helps folks on Tuesdays, so if I can get my work done early enough today I might be able to head over tonight. Awesome.
  9. I bought a piece on amazon from Rose Metal Products labeled as annealed 1074/1075 - 0.187x1.5x12. Well one side seems decently soft, the other seems really hard. I have a brand new file that's just skating across the one side while biting into the other and I can't get a hacksaw started on the one side. This was intended to be for stock removal knife. I figure at this point I should probably just anneal the whole thing. I know one guy with a forge and another guy with a kiln. Am I correct in thinking the easiest way to anneal this chunk of metal would be to run over to my buddy wit
  10. Thanks all, I'll keep this all in mind. @Alan Longmire re: 1070, I'll reserve that piece for a stock removal knife and find another chunk of metal. NJ Steel Baron is out of .250 barstock in all but 52100 and 80CrV2, though McMaster has some 5160. I guess I could also show up with a round bar/rod? @Geoff Keyes good point on just asking him, now to figure out how to login to facebook again since I seem to have failed to get his actual phone number and he seems to actually like facebook messenger.
  11. Anything I ought to bring with me to be a good student? I'll bring in a piece of 1084 or 80crv2 bar stock to work with; and he's got the tools and safety equipment. Anything I should bring other than myself, a good attitude, and adult beverages? Earplugs? I'm guessing my own gloves would be nice. Are there any other consumables he might appreciate (he's using a propane forge but it seems bringing an extra cylinder might be a bit much). I don't know how much we'll get done in the first session, but it might be useful to bring some quenchant or something right? Any suggestions
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