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James M. jones

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  1. You could do a demonstration on the effects of heat on grain growth during forging and the need for normalization.
  2. Quite an astute response, and I heartily agree on all points.
  3. In the trades , there is a old way of thinking that goes use the biggest tool you can till one more stroke will ruin he work, never use a knife if an axe will do, never use a file if a knife will work. ...ect. Sure hand skills need development, but .....there will be plenty of time and need to develop the finer points, my personal experience,after hand grinding several blades , started using a machine angle vice to rough in bevels and centers , and low and behold everything got ...”better”.... so what is good? What are the goals? Is tool selection a part of being good? Are we tool makers or tool users? Does a bevel jig,....define the work? Or limit our capacity for craftsmanship or possibly open doors to further exploration...? Questions
  4. Thanks for that, I assume you must anneal after cold working , before the quench. Interesting. Now the question becomes , on threads like this where the initial question has been ..... effectively answered.... should I consider starting new topic threads or is it ok to diversify the discussion, fine either way...... real glad you all have this resource for us.
  5. Would you mind sharing a bit about the golden ratio and ricaso . Like a 5x8 .? Would like to learn more on this.
  6. So now this has me wondering, are there any general guidelines as to how thick to forge in order to grind back. .? 1mm on the edge, ? I can see how shooting down that straight and centered would require great skill, so , the question becomes what are some good thickness , to shoot for off the forge, before cleaning up on the grinders , been mostly wanting to go thinner but not wanting to thin overly, concern for De carb, centerline straight, clean up , quench warping... suggestions?
  7. After taking a trip from wet Wisconsin to dry New Mexico, and seeing the movement of unstable materials, been thinking on the subject, Don,t feel like there’s any real magic bullet, but rather a weighing of goals , as each has positive and negative aspects. I also agree with the idea of materials that match in the long run.
  8. Nice to know I,m not the only one , can anyone say if in welding , does the weld get stronger during thinning? Heard it develops as the weld is worked down to about half the original thickness ? Looks like some weld failure and split....fancy!
  9. Still getting to know folks here so , ....thanks for the inputs. Ten bucks for core steel, seems like a lot on the surface of things but if folks like and it sells ...who,s to argue. Lots to consider, still have a long way to go before I feel like a knife maker.
  10. Yea , don,t want to cook your face! Pale skin or no , IR is simple heat , UV is the one to watch for.... not a big deal with straight up fire, gas coal, ect , but electric arc will fry your face in under an hour... , in smithing ...you will get burnt, live and burn baby live and burn....of course safety is a consideration not to be taken lightly, but best practices go a long way to stave off injury and pain. Make sure your tongs grip secure, your work area is organized, don’t just stare into the fire, be aware that flux will spray everywhere. Be ready to change things up if they are not working. Try things that might help. Personally thinking of one of those full face shields grinders use for the welding portions.
  11. I,ve heard of the blue paper, might be a while before trying it for the price. Looks like good stuff. I have bunches of the o1 from another job making turning tools, air harden with no temper as per request... so really want to see if process is key, or if there is some issue with o1 in laminate “out of the gate” so to speak . the big plan is to get a heat treat oven to dial things in. When you say your quench is good but then it splits ten minutes later..... is that after cooling to room temp without tempering? If so , could that be the problem? They say o1 needs to not cool to room temp before temper, might have to test that ..today... After reading the material Allen suggested It seems that time to harden o1 , needs to be about nine seconds to be best, as well as an extended soak at the Aust temp to fully convert, when compared to a water hard that need to quench as soon as aust temps are reached and to cool quick. Have I got that right? Would be nice to have a full poster size spread sheet for the shop . Lots to learn... I,ve been quenching the o1 hard , with hot transmission fluid....will try canola next...and clamping in copper bars, cooling down to probably 300f and straight into temper for an hour or so at about 420 f in a household oven, Seems to work on single steel blades.
  12. Thank you for the time , and info. Tried the o1 /wrought Sam mai again today with great success....so far , haven’t hardened it yet , no canola in the house. Ended up forging a bit hotter , a bit slower...I have a 75 lb sahinler... and letting the cool down take substantially longer by bathing it in the forge exit . All seemed to add up to success.
  13. Twenty sound about what I had in mind , for an 8 mm wide tool might just make it more or less rounded, or a tipped egg shape. In the blacksmith shop we have a tendency to just try , modifying as we go , till things work.
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