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Kristjan Runarsson

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  1. Yeah, this is a brutal blade. I always wrote these things off as clunky cooking knives rather than fighting knives and figured that in a drunken 15/16th century tavern brawl I would prefer a bollock dagger or a rondel but having tested this thing while carving up a leg of smoked lamb I would pick this Hauswehr over a dagger any day.
  2. So I ended up deciding to colour the whole thing black. Re-enactors will tell you that black was an impossible colour to achieve during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance but this is not quite true. Cloth was hard to dye black during the high Middle Ages but not impossible but leather could be easily dyed black with Vinegaroon for example. The belt was made from some old leather belt blanks that I had which I think are coated with some layer of synthetic which is why I didn't use them before, but upon taking a second look I think the synthetic coating isn't all that thick and noticeable so I
  3. The outer sheath was hand fitted to the inner sheaths, once again with all knives and the pricker sheathed as much was possible. The simplest way to do this is to cut two straight slits in the thoroughly dampened outer sheath cover for the by-knife and pricker and force the by-knife and pricker through these slits and into the side scabbards while widening the slits millimetre by millimetre until the by-knife and pricker are fully seated in their sheaths. The lips of the by-knife and pricker sheaths will pretty much be folded over and pulled into mouth of the by-knife and pricker sheaths autom
  4. Strictly speaking you could actually sew the by-knife and pricker sheaths onto the main sheath and skip the gluing but gluing them is easier and results in a more stable sheath that is more smooth to use. The inner sheaths for the by-knife and pricker were sewed together and glued onto the Hauswehr/carving-knife's inner sheath with all knives seated in their sheaths and kept that way over night until the glue was fully cured. I plugged up the gaps between the inner sheaths with leather strips and glue. This isn't strictly necessary but it increases the structural integrity of the whole ensembl
  5. Ok, so I went and made a sheath for this Hauswerh that I got from Tod Cutler. It's really more of a combination kitchen chopper and carving knife but I wanted a sheath for it more or less like the one in this painting. I started by making the inner scabbards. These were made by 'damp-forming' the leather around the blades with the blades being covered in Ballistol before work began to prevent the worst of the inevitable rusting due to the damp leather. I say 'damp-forming' because people talk about 'wet-forming' which leads many newcomers to make the lea
  6. Has anybody got any pointers on how to make one of these sheaths? As far as I can tell this sheath consists of an inner core of ~1mm bovine leather and around that is another layer of similar leather which the pockets for the by-knife and pick are stretched and wet-moulded into and which is then glued onto the underlying inner sheath after the moulding and stretching is done. The edges of the pocket are folded over? ... and glued? ... to give those smooth rounded edges. Any experiences and advice on pitfalls with this sort of work would be appreciated.
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