ATLSteve

Thank you all for your thought-full responses to a newbie question. That's what makes this form great  

Yes I understand that free handing is best, but I think you have to have a rough idea of what you are trying to accomplish. I have read when starting out to use a jig to start the bevel and then move to free hand to finish it. That way, you have an established angle to work from. This makes sense to me  

Thank you 

’m bought this thinking I would make a fillet knife. I started figuring out how to grind my initial bevel before heat treating. Then I read that you shouldn’t thin the knife more than 0.08" Before heat treating it. This knife is only one 1/6" of an inch. Should I not do initial bevel and just heat treated and then grind a final bevel?

Thanks 

I will look at White bone knives jigs 

Thank you 

10 hours ago, Wes Detrick said:

 

This.  And it's not just edge thickness, but bevel height as well.
 

What if you reach your desired edge thickness (before heat treatment) before your bevel height

Ok, I am going to make a bevel jig. I have watched several youtube channels; I think I know how to make one, but please, any suggestions are welcome. I am basing my jig design off of Walter Sorrells version.

The question is, how do you determine what angle to set the jig at?. Do you keep increasing the angle until you reach the desired edge thickness before the heat treatment? or do you set it at the desired bevel angle, for example, 20º

Thanks 

2 hours ago, JohnCenter said:

. I then upgraded to a 14" course bastard I ordered off Amazon. 

Is this the one? I can't find any the say "course bastard" This is just called a Flat Bastard file. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00018ACUE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

2 hours ago, JohnCenter said:

 

I am going to try and make a knife with a jig like this 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ&t=264s

What would be a good file to use for this. 

Thanks 

2 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

There is always the 66 lb anvil on Ebay. I used mine a couple times and ended up selling it but it was a fully serviceable anvil. I also had it's big 110 lb brother for quite a while and loved it. 

Strangely there are a lot of 66 lb anvils on eBay.  Do you remember who you bought it from? 

On 1/12/2018 at 12:33 PM, Jeremy Blohm said:

The forge body is 4 fire bricks that can be found at tractor supply or ordered onlinehere. 

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/united-states-stove-company-single-firebrick/0000000249442?gclid=CjwKCAiA1uHSBRBUEiwAkBCtzZJMEfhYV6vX7HNwhz-HHXM19gjboLq8XWd9yQFLrxvlBP-qXZa04hoC-oEQAvD_BwE

Then you will need 2 pieces of angle iron 8 inches long with 1/4 inch holes drilled about 3/4 of an inch in from the ends in the corner of the V. And you will need 2 pieces of 1/4 inch threaded rod 12 inches long and 4- 1/4 inch nuts and washers.

You will need a 3/4 inch or 1 inch concrete bit also to drill the hole for the burner.

And you will need a turkey fryer that is propane fired like this one 

Take the burner out

cut the end off

and then put the burner in the hole you drilled

hook it up to the propane tank and fire it up

Edit: Another thing i did and highly recommend because of the extreme heat is forge a flare and attached it permanently to the forge but it required drilling a larger hole.  DO NOT. Use galvanized pipe!!!

DO NOT use galvanized pipe.

If anyone has any problems with this burner feel free to ask any questions. I don't care if this topic is 5 years old you can still ask a question or send me a personal message and I will do everything I can to help.

Why the angle iron? Why not a flat piece of metal? Is it about heat transference? I think I am going to try and make one. Thanks for the post  

17 minutes ago, Daniel W said:

Check machine shops first, a scrap yard is just that, scrap.  They have no idea what they may have.  Machines shops will almost undoubtedly have some large drops for 4140. Which even unhardened, will be tough. It's a very commonly used low carbon steel in the industry.

Do you need to Heat treat it? Not really. As your just learning/beginning, you will miss a lot.  Miss on a hardened piece of steel, you take the chance of chipping it out. The divots you make in the drop, clean them out from time to time, or else their just added texture.

If I was starting out again, I would get a drop from a machine shop, and save up for an anvil. When it comes to getting to know what you want, this is where your local blacksmith groups can help. You may be allowed to work off of different anvils at open forge nights or go to hammer ins to get more options to see what other people use. 

I only knew what kind/brand of anvil I wanted after working off of the same brand at classes and open forges.

Thanks Daniel 

13 hours ago, Gerald Boggs said:

Sure, Buy American.

To the OP: If you're not looking for a conventional anvil, then most any chunk of steel will do you. As long as it's got mass, it will work. Most of the steel distributors I've used have a shorts rack and you can sometimes get a good price.

There’s a guy on YouTube he suggests when starting out, go to a scrapyard or machine shop and look for a 2 inch or wider piece of steel. Is there a type of steel I should ask for?

3 hours ago, Cody Killgore said:

A good anvil is a good anvil, period. I'm not sure how helpful it is to devolve the thread into a China bashing thread when we don't even know if these are made in China... Instead, perhaps you could make your own recommendation.

Thank you 

2 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Assuming you're in Atlanta (the name suggests...), get yourself over to the Atlanta History Center and join the Alex Bealer chapter of blacksmiths.  They meet at the Tully Smith house. Well, the shop is out front.  Watching and participating is the second best way to flatten that learning curve!  The fastest and best is to take a few blacksmithing classes.

http://alexbealer.org/

Edit:  Looks like they now meet all over central Georgia, and you just missed the last meeting.  You MUST go to the October meeting, it's at Stephan Fowler's shop.  He is an accomplished bladesmith and friend of mine. http://www.alexbealer.org/plug.php?e=events&m=details&id=136

Thanks Alen. I work Saturdays, but man that looks perfect. I will keep my eye on it. Thanks 

18 minutes ago, Cody Killgore said:

The guy that makes the atlas mini forges just released a custom anvil. I really don’t need one but really want to buy one. It’s made for bladesmithing. It’s hornless and has a hardy hole!

Just something to look at.

Sorry to be such newbie, where can I find that!

thanks 

29 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

Look at oldworldanvils.com. they have a square anvil that makes a good Cutler's block. Good starter for the money.

That's in my price range. Iam mostly inrested in make ing chefs  That's in my price range. I am mostly interested in making kitchen knives, at least right now. I thought I would try and make a paring knife and see how it goes. So that 4" x 4" x 4" anvil would get me started? 

Thanks guys. I have a feeling that this is going to be a steep learning curve 

Someone is selling an anvil locally. They are asking $125. Is it worth it and is this a good starter Anvil?