J.Leon_Szesny

I'm probably going to ask this again next year so.. Only asking for charcoal-forges Price of charcoal is mad right now. are there any new, viable, cheaper, alternative "fuel things"?

So we're going to assume the K-type temperature readout, is the correct temperature, yes?

I got a K type rod on this, So I set my thermometer to type K But I read that type K and type J both work to measure high temps. Problem is that if I switch the type, the displayed temperature drastically changes. So I'm a bit uncertain which is the true reading, if that makes sense...

No need my beautiful bearded fellow! Haha, Feast thy eyes! On a forge corrected sanmai core! It works after all But this is just a theory, Now I need to further proof it. Prob by Intentionally off centering a core and beating it into the center

So basically once it goes off center, it's just game over? I refuse to believe that it can't be manipulated somehow, to nudge it back. If you can hammer it off center, then it should also be possible to hammer it back, center. Right? Has to be.

@billyO I tried to thin the side out that had more iron by laying the thinner side on the anvil and only forging on the side with more iron. In theory, that should prevent the thinner side on the anvil from getting thinner faster than the side I'm hammering on But in practice The exact opposite happened, Twice!

I've been making some san-mai kitchen knives and the core keeps going off center. Material butter iron and shirogami 2. Method, hand hammering. I start out with the core being centered, even measured it but... So I tried to see what happens, if I only forge on the side that has more iron, thinking if I displace it more than the anvil would the thinner side, I could thin it and the core would be centered. That thinking seemed very incorrect, it made it so much worse. So I'll try the opposite now. Anyone know for certain how to beat the sides so the core keeps being in center?

I thought about that but I dont know if the quench would play nicely with it, during the quench the white metals would get annealed while the hard steel(shirogami1 1.35%c) would bend like crazy? and that is ok to an extend, Japanese forgings usually get hammer corrected on the final stages anyway but, I fear it might be too extrem with just white metals and itll tear itself loose? especially on something like a single sided laminate kiridashi

so glad someone ackonwledged that it's BRAZING! I had a heated convo about this with a guy once hahaha but I dont know maybe it's another case of the dreadful "forge thick grind, thin philosphy" this is a screenshot of baker forge and tools copper/brassmascus pieces and the ratio seem to be equal on them(ecept for the core steel)

naah, I've seen some knifemakers using it, they got a source somewhere. hmmh oh! "baker forge and tools" was it hmm but it aint quite right.. what he's looking for is more like this:

Sup, I was wondering if anyone knew where to buy this stuff, asking for a friend, he's looking for a copper and brass mix, without core, prefferably made with low carbon steel or iron. for a two layer kiridashi.

@Tim Cook I am using the standard hoses that came with the roxy set, so it should be a propane hose? @Aiden CChm not sure about grease, the oily liquid is pretty much like sewing machine oil, very runny and thin and maybe a bit less oily. I shouldve tried to light it on fire! but prior to fully noticing it, I think I did fiddle with the torch, just running the propane and there was no residual flame after shutting off the propane valve, soo im guessing it's maaaaybe, not a very flammable oil? I have it drained out now and its doesn't seem to be back. Yet.

Not at all, I have it mounted in a stand, so it's always stand-ing upright. I let the hose hang off a shelf to drip it all out overnight, by now I have atleast a full pint worth that's come out of it and it doesn't even look like it's all drained yet.

I noticed there's some clear oily liquid dripping out of the nozzle and it's preventing the propane from properly burning so the oxygen just blows out the flame. I'm not sure if it's my fault or if it's the cold weather or if this is normal?

I'm pretty sure, I can measure just the steel, especially for testing purposes I could even use larger steel sheet/plate. I wont be trying to aim at the steel lying inside my forge, rather pulling it out maybe above the anvil and then, seeing what the gismo says and it wont be more than 3-5 inches away, if distance is a problem and aiming the thing, it should work out? and emissivity can be adjusted on most of these(to an extend?)