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J.Leon_Szesny last won the day on August 18 2021

J.Leon_Szesny had the most liked content!

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    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

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  1. I got a link to a blurry zoomed out recording... I'll dig it up later but yes I think the steel might've been 300-400 C. it definitely wasn't red hot
  2. I can't find reference examples to marks and Brian's shears but the japanese style I'm going for ain't got a pivot(and probably not for lack of them being able to make it), besides most blacksmith shears I've seen can only cut 2-3mm thick things. the japanese setup can cut 6-8mm thick in 1-3 strikes. and it's a clean straight cut along an entire 7-10cm long piece
  3. In japanese toolsmithing they got a type of cold shear setup but as usual details are lacking. All I know is, the smith places a small plate on the anvil and his helper positions a flat looking punch over the edge of the plate, then the punch is struck, it makes a "plunk" sound and the steel placed between is sheared off clean. I got 4 ideas how the details might look and considering that the force comes straight from the top, I'd be leaning to number 4 being "it" But will appreciate a second opinion on steel shearing.
  4. Coldworking or cold forging is something I have to do as part of the process to adjust the tools to the final shape. "New grains from coldworking" is bad right? Jup. I'm trying to get to 100% or atleast 95% of the best possible results for shirogami, fine grain-ness is the missing part... I tried thermal cycling which grew the grains and tried multiple quenches, which yes, cracked the steel! but refined the grain quite nicely(obvs not a usable technique for me tho) still it ain't there yet... Left side is iron right side is shirogami. Cut with a bolt shear l
  5. dang, alright well it's good to have confirmation, then I guess I wont waste my time staring at unhardened steel like looking thru a key slot. I'm struggling with shirogami right now, which is an extremely pure carbon steel and I can get it to be fine grained(better than the factory grains of a good file) but I know its not quite 100% honestly it's starting to feel hopeless or like I'm going mad but I'm soo close, maybe?!
  6. I'm currently trying to figure out how to know for sure what and if I did wrong. to do this analyzing it would help if I could tell the grain size before hardening and breaking the piece. what types of acid could show the grain structure of non-alloy carbon steel, before and after hardening? all I got is ferric chloride and vinegar... are there any other ways to test grain structure before hardening? I dont imagine trying to break my soft & bendy annealed steel will give me a clear result.. this video shows metal grain structure via etching
  7. just a quick simple and hopefully well descriptive video on how to use a basic Sen to carve a basic Ura on the back of japanese tools. hope this is helpful for someone!
  8. 'eello! I'm dabbling in making a spark arrestor for a Japanese style toolsmith forge, first test: "I failed and poisoned myself with smoke and gases" so before I go experimenting and buying meshes of different micron filtering sizes... help, I'm poor what is the biggest size a charcoal/coal particle would need to be in order to ignite? what is the distance of travel of said particles. (100 micron = X distance. 400 micron= X distance. etc...) what is the smallest size a spark would need to be in order to ignite a secondary thing, like a hot summer day-dried leaf 2 m
  9. experimenting with shirogami... its hard. everything turns into crap, even tho it should be good and I cant figure out why. spark arrestor didnt work, mesh was too fine and the ash and smoke and gases got pushed in my face. everything is going wrong which is good, cause that means I'm on the right way. wait........yea no, that makes sense.
  10. ura-dashi is done on cold metal, you have to hold the blade/tool with your fingers, even with soft steel it can be done but iron is best, normally its pretty easy, some japanese smiths really beat the crap out of the iron of the bevel part, with no problems and that's how it should be, if you didn't mess up somewhere, the steel should be able to take it without breaking. but I messed up, somewhere!...
  11. so once I'm done welding the carbon steel to the iron, what heats should I never approach, during the forging/shaping? (other than the obvious forging it too cold or continuing to forge it at welding or sparking heat.) what problems could it lead to? can I undo these problems with normalizations? my current steel is shirogami 2 compositon http://zknives.com/knives/steels/shirogami_2.shtml PS: I've been having a few bad runs with shirogami, before, I had used a high chrom moly steel.. been trying new techniques, which leads to new problems? 3x normaliz
  12. As I started grinding the bevel this stuff appeared on the inside. weird spots + lines in the hardsteel(shirogami) This is butter iron and shirogami forge welded As can be seen by the quick polish, this is not part of the weld seam. Or is it? And I just had carbon bleed into the iron? I used cast iron flux. Or did I while forming the tip fold and weld in some stuff?(cuz the shirogami shouldn't be this thick considering I used 1,5mm) Or is it cracked and or ruined? It doesn't quite look like a crack, it's not clean enough for that...I think
  13. Is it? the only times I found "cast iron powder" the items detail description said (Fe) Iron powder seems easy to buy, it's being sold as food, for chemistry and paint/art stuff. For cast iron powder tho...no idea where that would be applied on the open consumer market. I guess I would have to directly order it from the source?
  14. I don't know if I can trust machine shops to not have the shavings or swarf mixed with other metals, also haven't been able to find a source to buy cast iron powder, most of it was labeled as cast iron powder but always turned out the fine print read (Fe) I think most people have a drill press or drill and some throw-away cast iron, and producing 100g literally took me only 20-30minutes, which is certainly shorter than what I spend online looking for real cast iron powder. I'm intending to use it for japanese style toolsmithing(iron+hc steel), that's where I heard it's
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