Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Really you recon it's burnt!? I swear that I welded and forged it without sparks flying! But maybe the heat shot up too fast, which caused the steel too be more stressed? When I started refining the blanks the forge was already at forge welding temp. Wrought iron would be a dream to have, l source most of my stuff locally, sadly haven't come across wrought iron yet... But the option on website seems surprisingly affordable! Really I thought it be 3x as much.
  2. I had read that one of the purposes of having mild carbon steel and a paper thin core was to help reduce sharpening time? most of the circular sawblades around here are highly hardenable even the ones with brazed on carbide! and I had some weird welding times with some, so I've been avoiding it...I think it was chrome vanadium and some kinda HSS. yo, that could perhaps be, I was operating my fuigo bellow with my foot on the footrest so, maybe I pumped too much air into it? but I didn't get the steel sparking hot, could it still de-carb? here some pictures of t
  3. yea maybe it was a bad section in the bar... I'll try to test the remaining steel, maybe I can find something out not sure I understand this, are you talking about making a san-mai billet with nothing but high carbon steel pieces? but that would kinda defeat the purpose of the san-mai lamination technique but no, no sawmills, we do have a local scrapyard with piles of circular saw blades
  4. wait what, thermal cycles after forge welding? I mean, I forge welded it into a solid billet then took it to slightly below welding heat and hot cut it in the middle, both halves I then heated to cherry red and just let them air cool....
  5. here that's the best I can do rn, bad lighting and because I was kinda disshearted...I didn't bother to clean them up with water forging, I just got them to that rough shape and chucked them in the ash for annealing.
  6. true, the carbon steel core seems to be perfectly fine and I also saw no de-lamination at all but that sounds interesting, I hadn't heard of that before. maybe while forging and making knives and cutting the bar down, I just hit a specific part of the bar were something funky was going on. If so, any ideas on how I could test for things like that? cause I did forge it down, chisel it, straightened the slot, chisel it open again and nothing happened to the steel, I was doing that at orange heats and working even down at red heats.
  7. yea I had forged some other san-mai knives from the same bar I even had used the same file steel before. only difference was that I forged one billet and cut it into 2 knives. not "compatible?" in what way? the carbon core seemed fine, the cracks were everywhere except at the spot where the core was. they traveled right around the spine over the faces and then stopped in the middle right at the edges of the welded core as far as I could tell.
  8. So I started my blades with a san-mai billet, regular hardware store low carbon steel, I'd been using for ages, never had a problem. chiseled the bar and put a file steel core into it, that I had put through some tests beforehand, I forge welded it all into one nice solid piece, then cut it in the middle and forged in the tips of the two small knives and closed shop for the day. now at this point the steel was all good, clean, solid, no cracks! today I went to refine the knife blanks and after a few blows I notice that the low carbon steel has micro cracks all over, like a to
  9. hm I would just weld on some low carbon steel to the damascus billet or to the spot where the engraving will end up but that probably will do some weird stuff to your damascus patterns appearance? what type of engraving tools are you using btw? pneumatic push gravers? rotary bits? traditional, hammer and hand? if you're going traditional, im not sure differential hardening will go well, I've tried to engrave some hc steel that I annealed before and tho it was soft to file, it still was too much for my dainty gravers. It was doable but terrible!
  10. im not too sure about the lower carbon content, because the tamahagane that they used, did show that it broke easily after hardening but it could be that after all the re-stacking and re-welding the content got lowered. though they did use rice straw ash to neutralize carbon loss. so perhaps the steel simply got quenched at a lower temp thus leading to lowered hardness initially the tamahagane chunk got quenched at what looked to be orange temp. and the finished saw blade was quenched at about dull red. but with cameras and lighting its hard to trust the visuals.
  11. I would be making the saw steel myself, so thats why im thinking in terms of 2-3mm since I'd be having to scrape a lot of steel off to make them flat. not sure yet how thin I as an amateur could get away with and not have it just crumble or break or who knows.... for reference I do everything by hand, closely using the japanese traditional techniques and tools.
  12. I was thinking of having something similar to a chisel for a cutter not something like a flat punch. maybe more like a V graver with a very high angle bevel. here is a video of a japanese smith hand cutting saw teeth but im not totally sure about the chisels(/punches?) edge geometry and angles.
  13. I was thinking of just using a single cutter, since that would give me more ability to tooth different shapes of saws and then just have a jig below that helps me make sure the teeth are aligned properly. im mainly interested in japanese saws for finer woodworking so, the teeth would be pretty tiny and the cutter as well would be more like, the size of a pencils cross section cut into a V, probably smaller even. but im really not so sure anymore I mean thats not...a lot...
  14. I've been eyeing arbor presses for a little while for saw tooth cutting but I couldn't find reference as to their actually performance in steel.(mostly leather, plastic, button setting...) if I had an annealed piece of high carbon steel and a half to 1 ton pressure, arbor press, we're talking about maybe 2-3 mm thick steel plate, could I cut saw teeth with that at a rate that would make it a "non-frustrating" task
  15. yes, hello, good sir, tired of your "regular old blacksmithing?" then may I interest you in traditional japanese blacksmithing? thats sure to keep you busy for another 10-20 years ;P these are a few things to look up or buy, build, learn. that might take a few years. "sen-dai" "sen scraper" "togi-dai" "whetstones" "fuigo bellows" "sitting/kneeling while forging" "anvil at waist height" "tapered japanese bladesmith hammer" if nothing else, a fuigo, would be a thing that may bring you great joy. if you need help fine tuning it
  • Create New...