Jump to content

J.Leon_Szesny

Members
  • Content Count

    125
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

25 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Alright reworked, improved How is this? All clear to understand? @Aiden CC sup, is this how you meant it?
  2. @Aiden CC Top right corner is the remaining 9-10mm from the overall 60cm length. The dotted lines are pieces that will be added later. The 9-10mm are the fuigo lid. This is the 2D view of just the finished front piece after all the sawing is done, the lines above/below the piston hole are for a front board that gets attached. But you make a lot of good points on how I can make this more clear and improve the instructional parts. I could make a fuigo with half these measurements nowadays but the point is so anyone can do it without consulting a mind r
  3. Currently upgrading my japanese forge with a new fuigo(box bellow) This time I'm planning to make plans so maybe someone someday here can build themselves a proper one of these. So is this coherent? Can you guys tell what's going on and feel like it's easy to follow? Did I forget something? I'll color code the measurements later on.
  4. @Aiden CC If you (and anyone else) want to get into some nice soft-fast working whetstones these here are my favorites, they're big, they're thick and one sided so you can use them on their side which makes them easier to keep flat and honestly you probably wont need the entire width of the face sides anyway. these are baller and comparatively cheap(sometimes...prices fluctuate frequently) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rockingham-SUPERSHARP-Whetstone-Sharpening-Non-Slip/dp/B07BKFCGFD ps: I'd avoid double sided stones, they seem like a good idea but two sides with di
  5. If you really want to find out the old ways, then you will have to apply the old techniques and old knowledge(or as close to it as you can get nowadays) its very different making a tool when you know you can grind it with a machine, compared to making it and knowing that you cant because, there are no machines. "forge thick grind thin" most certainly didnt exist back then. I have grinding machines but for pieces that I sell I dont use electric tools that means the degree of error im allowed is much tighter and I have to make every step in consideration of what
  6. might I ask what was wrong with using a belt strapped ram? all I could see was that it looked kinda loose? yea just found this here you can see how tight the straps are
  7. since I already had this half stump sitting there, I went and chiseled out a mortice for the anvil. Temporarily. If I find a nice endgrain-up-stump I like, I'll switch it out and see if that makes a noticeable difference
  8. I had heard the stump is just to deaden the anvils ring or to give it height, I thought rebound ends where the anvil meets the base so I was going to mortice it in there and maybe give it a felt/rubber bottom to sit silently on. hrmm.. but if i ring it with steel even a small piece of endgrain up shouldn't split from wedging, maybe? im also still planing to harden it, im currently upgrading my whole forge, building a better fuigo bellows(sword forging grade)for that. plus it seems handy to have 2 bellows. I'll mortice it into the stump for now and forge on it
  9. I thought of morticing the block into this stump half and then wedging it from the side. Is there a reason I should use a stump with endgrain facing up? I could but then my wedge construction might split it?
  10. @Brian Myersthats Soo helpful thanks for digging it up! Here some processand an idea on how to handle this thing. I did a bit of forging on it loosely sitting around, I feel gobsmacked at how much better it is than the scrap stuff I'd been using
  11. yea thats why im thinking of trying to harden the entire anvil. I could easily harden just one face but then I can't do the switcharoonie well I can but... im thinking of making like a long handled hook beam and welding temporary handles to the block, then hook it in, pull it out, put it back turn it around etc dig a hole fill it with water dump the makeshift brick forge walls into it, to heat it up and go for the quench? im sure this will make me look like a cartoon but on paper it seems to work. but I will have to do it somewhere...ehem faaar away from prying
  12. Aight, it having only 0.42 carbon I didn't think cracking would be a risk id have to be afraid of, I hardened a 0.40-0.50% steel file before in water and it was so tough I literally bashed it with a hammer into a banana and it didn't crack not usable hardness for an edge tho so to the pile it went. Anyway, I'll see what I can rig up with hot water quench container. Worst, case I'll dig a hole. What I'm most worried about is that it's so big that I might not be able to cool it fast enough to get it completely hard, hence my thinking of using the flowing river I
  13. Yep corrected the typo. Hm the stuff I read makes it seem like a super alloy. But yea 0.42% C... I was thinking of welding up a lifting bar and setting up a fire place next to the river and chucking it in there. But how about welding on the hardened rail track foot? If we're talking about rebound, the hard rail foot has much more than the massive soft chunk. Is that atleast worth a try? Like, if it doesn't do anything better could I still turn the piece over or does the welded face still steal energy?
  14. Alright we got some development I have not been deaf to what you guys been saying and went around, doing some digging aaand was very lucky to cheaply find a block of steel pretty much spot on for my liking(1cm give and take) 195x100x130mm Unhardened 42CrMo4(1.7225) a tool steel(?) with about 0.42 carbon Now I'm thinking... Cut and weld the hardened track foot on or somehow, with sheer force of stupid, harden the whole block!? Anyone know more about this steel? So far what I'm reading makes it sound like the perfect anvil stee
  15. pretty nice! I really like how thin the core steel is, thats something I had trouble with when I made my first kobuse carving knives. have you tried experimenting with finger stones yet? those are also pretty fun as they allow you to work the steels differentionally, for this blade tho youd probably have to use the old chopstick method and a sliver of a piece of stone the size of 3 rice grains and an engravers visor and a hand rest and a way to hold it in place and...but its fun!
×
×
  • Create New...