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J.Leon_Szesny

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J.Leon_Szesny last won the day on August 18 2021

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    Germany
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    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

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  1. depending on what you want to use it for, I would maybe go back to the grinder to thin down the edge, it is looking a bit thick for a general purpose knife? for carburization it is important to hold the blade at the austhenitic temperature so the carbon can migrate and be absorbed. for mild steel that point should be 800-850 Celsius. If you go higher than 1000C, that can lead to carbon loss. time and temperature lead to transformations. the thinner the steel the faster the transformation occurs but you still need the right temperature. if you want to generally improve in forging, make or buy decent tongs! learn hammer technique get a good hammer with a properly dressed face make more tongs then, study metalurgy -then throw it out and study japanese forge philosophy agonize for 5 years until you reach enlightenment congrats you improved!-
  2. AAH I forgot to add that part!! the birdhouse tho is the little front part, where the inside vents pump the air into the pipe, the piston and glass/acryllic would be located behind that in the main box. well damn, guess my plans were only 98% complete... maan...I hope this wont mean I ave to start it all from the beginning to account for the frikking 2mm of acryllic/glass. Yea I have seen Dans monster Fuigo, also messaged him some years ago, to help with vacuum seal air blockage and Fuigo set up stuff(too tight, no bueno). but these Fuigo plans are supposed to be more traditional, so that everyone can take a shot at building it, from simplistic box making, to highly japanophilically traditionally detailed...box making. who was it that said "woodworking is just making boxes?" -yes.
  3. FIRST! well probably not quite but so far I have not seen anyone share Fuigo blueprints least not complete ones. But all good things come to an end? only a matter of time. Hopefully people will take this as inspiration to descend into the darker side of forging and maybe make blueprints of Fuigos that are better looking than mine.(cause honestly I'm not sure how coherent this is...I tried...) Also, sorry for the metrics...but I'm sure with a bit of tweaking and an inch converter it'll be fineee. If anyone got questions, asked and I'll try to explain what we're looking at here or what does why. The measurements are based on Japanese fuigos and data gathered from Japanese craftsmen and pictures as well as other artisans and experience. then I converted some of it to match my local supplies, by that we're talking about a 1-2mm difference surprisingly a lot of european standard measurements are similar or close to the japanese measure of 3s. This would be for a sword smith Fuigo, making it more powerful than a Fuigo for smaller toolmaking PS: right click, "open in new tab" for better quality and zoomin. Maybe hmm
  4. I'm probably going to ask this again next year so.. Only asking for charcoal-forges Price of charcoal is mad right now. are there any new, viable, cheaper, alternative "fuel things"?
  5. So we're going to assume the K-type temperature readout, is the correct temperature, yes?
  6. I got a K type rod on this, So I set my thermometer to type K But I read that type K and type J both work to measure high temps. Problem is that if I switch the type, the displayed temperature drastically changes. So I'm a bit uncertain which is the true reading, if that makes sense...
  7. No need my beautiful bearded fellow! Haha, Feast thy eyes! On a forge corrected sanmai core! It works after all But this is just a theory, Now I need to further proof it. Prob by Intentionally off centering a core and beating it into the center
  8. So basically once it goes off center, it's just game over? I refuse to believe that it can't be manipulated somehow, to nudge it back. If you can hammer it off center, then it should also be possible to hammer it back, center. Right? Has to be.
  9. @billyO I tried to thin the side out that had more iron by laying the thinner side on the anvil and only forging on the side with more iron. In theory, that should prevent the thinner side on the anvil from getting thinner faster than the side I'm hammering on But in practice The exact opposite happened, Twice!
  10. I've been making some san-mai kitchen knives and the core keeps going off center. Material butter iron and shirogami 2. Method, hand hammering. I start out with the core being centered, even measured it but... So I tried to see what happens, if I only forge on the side that has more iron, thinking if I displace it more than the anvil would the thinner side, I could thin it and the core would be centered. That thinking seemed very incorrect, it made it so much worse. So I'll try the opposite now. Anyone know for certain how to beat the sides so the core keeps being in center?
  11. I thought about that but I dont know if the quench would play nicely with it, during the quench the white metals would get annealed while the hard steel(shirogami1 1.35%c) would bend like crazy? and that is ok to an extend, Japanese forgings usually get hammer corrected on the final stages anyway but, I fear it might be too extrem with just white metals and itll tear itself loose? especially on something like a single sided laminate kiridashi
  12. so glad someone ackonwledged that it's BRAZING! I had a heated convo about this with a guy once hahaha but I dont know maybe it's another case of the dreadful "forge thick grind, thin philosphy" this is a screenshot of baker forge and tools copper/brassmascus pieces and the ratio seem to be equal on them(ecept for the core steel)
  13. naah, I've seen some knifemakers using it, they got a source somewhere. hmmh oh! "baker forge and tools" was it hmm but it aint quite right.. what he's looking for is more like this:
  14. Sup, I was wondering if anyone knew where to buy this stuff, asking for a friend, he's looking for a copper and brass mix, without core, prefferably made with low carbon steel or iron. for a two layer kiridashi.
  15. @Tim Cook I am using the standard hoses that came with the roxy set, so it should be a propane hose? @Aiden CChm not sure about grease, the oily liquid is pretty much like sewing machine oil, very runny and thin and maybe a bit less oily. I shouldve tried to light it on fire! but prior to fully noticing it, I think I did fiddle with the torch, just running the propane and there was no residual flame after shutting off the propane valve, soo im guessing it's maaaaybe, not a very flammable oil? I have it drained out now and its doesn't seem to be back. Yet.
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