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J.Leon_Szesny last won the day on August 18

J.Leon_Szesny had the most liked content!

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    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

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  1. eyuup so far had no problems with DHL, within the EU... but as soon as I try to get something from US and it gets handed to DHL....suddenly I need signatures and yes it gets send to different cities/ last time I couldnt even get it because I was only notified that the package was send elsewhere, on the last day when it would be send back. took me 3 months to get ebay to agree to refund me(ebay is horrid with refunding...amazon so far tho A++) or getting a ripped open box with zero contents, which...I mean...why did they even bother to deliver that?! or at a pickupstation, the gu
  2. I think I might try just water-lumping it together or shellac? since I read that being used as a soldering flux (never tried) but nah boric acid also banned. pretty much all borates are banned(from household/public consumer store or non licensed) you can still buy it online, if you find a website that sells it without having you show a digital license. so you can kinda lowkey legally-illegally get it but...not as readily or cheaply.(import cost from America way high T^T) I also got it from an old pharmacist to order once, 1kg 50euro... and that only worked cuz I tol
  3. got no kiln! glue, sounds like it would work but also smell like hell. what if I had a metal syringe filled with borax-water paste? if that contacted the melted metal would it...splatter? I mean its not oil but...just asking to be sure.
  4. recently got into metal casting, for inlay engraved tools. in germany borax is a rare blacksmith commodity(cuz its lowkey illegal...) so I'm wondering how to best make a long hard rod of borax, from powder, so I can just dab it on the melting metal instead of sprinkling it everywhere... I don't want to experiment too much and waste it, again...borax is rare round here
  5. hnng aight aight.. any info on finding some nice and palatable introduction to understanding this stuff? (I am kinda...not..smart)
  6. Nordic gold so far seems to be less problematic than trying to throw raw aluminium into a mix.
  7. No idea how to read that but Yea. I think I'll stick to Nordic gold, appearance wise that oughta work. Also, this is what brass with aluminium bronze and phospherous bronze mixed looks like(the one on the left, the right is Nordic gold)
  8. I think I can confirm by now that aluminium is badbad stuff! It seems to makes everything gunk up and that gunk prevents the metal from properly melting and flowing. Which is weird cuz aluminum melts so easily... But as soon as it gets mixed somewhat with copper both metals...ugh
  9. I've been using aluminium wire and used to do it in a forge but recently got a Roxy torch set. Still, forge or Roxy, same gunked up crucible.
  10. @DanM yea, I had it fluxed up but maybe not enough? Still doesn't explain the spongy mess that also resists melting... Right?
  11. I started some metal making for engraving and or other stuff and the aluminum bronze is always incredibly dirty and difficult to manage, half of the metal clumps up into a porous black gunky mass that sticks to my crucible, every time. however, this does not happen with my shibuichi+crucible, that one is nice and clean! no problems! so am I crazy or doing something wrong or is aluminum just an unholy disgusting metal for melting? And that's my shibuichi crucible
  12. I've heard that before but I dont think thats it, running pipe on top the forge back to the bellows then inside the forge doesnt seem possible for the size of the forge. for reference, most fuigo pipes are around 5-7cm(2-3") diameter. thats sounds like something! also when using charcoal perhaps humid air might help to suppress ash particles from floating all around. Pure conjecture on my part here but maybe humid air will make the fine ashes get soaked with water, thus causing them to sink to the ground instead of float and get in your face?
  13. yeh if we're talking about sous vide, that could work pretty good. plus I can easily operate the japanese fuigo bellow with my feet, which leaves my hands free to pour meaty soup from the bag down my gullet. I do get hungry after 4-8hours. that reminds me, I still need to go make a lid for the pot.
  14. I dont think it is for any reasons of consumption XD in pic 3, you can see its a huge open tank which probably inevitably will have some forge gunk in it. the best idea I can come up with is "cold air" the top of the forge is open and connected to a water filled pot that cools the roof of the forge, which sends cold air into the forge from the front opening and the top, cold air presses stuff down, like ash and smoke and charcoal sprinkles. I also observed that the thing connected to the back of the forge is a chimney pipe(im sure) so everything would get pushed back and dow
  15. "Whats in the Pot?!" it's WATER! has to be, looking at the vapor smoke, it can only be water but why? theyre not using it for quenching or...making tea. could it have something to do with the heat in the forge? what would happen if the roof of the forge stayed cooled? these forges also seem to have a draft function as the fire seems to get slightly pulled inside. but how? where to? one smith seems to also have another larger pot/barrel attached to the back of the forge. BUT WHY??! its been on my mind for years, I feel like this IS important knowledge, they
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