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    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

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  1. cool video! but the quality...such a shame.. yes that's kinda "cheating" but as long as its not "electrically" powered, I think its ok. although I'd probably also draw a line on "steam powered" not that im saying theres anything wrong with electrical or steam powered tools.
  2. yea this would mainly be an experiment and just for the laughs. but now I know a bit about what to expect. this, does sound like a likely thing to happen. but if I ever get my hands on carbide drill bits and got one too many, ...it has to be done! (but no powertools, thats just cheating!)
  3. nonono, I have a drill press and I can hot punch holes just fine. I just mean, has anyone ever thought about hand drilling hot steel with carbide drill bits? imagine, if it actually works and you could hand drill holes in steel almost as easily as in wood but would it?
  4. so what do you guys think on that? drilling holes into hot, red-orange-hot steel with carbide drill bits, by hand! egg beater drill? brace drill? breast drill? is this even remotely possible or am I just tired and going crazy?
  5. Yeh I had heard something about nickel steels. So there is no magic etching or staining stuff, (other than cold blue) that can bring out a dark coloration in the low carbon steel? I could a sworn some of the stuff I'd seen was etched, but maybe it was a stone polish with accommodating lighting...
  6. I'm trying to go for the Japanese blade/tool finish. Soft steel black Hard steel white There has to be a way to do that without using stones. what about damascus then? That has steel that doesn't turn black and it would be insane if that was a non-hardening steel, that would make for a terrible blade with lots of little soft spots
  7. A bit of a broad question. I want to know more about what different etching agents do to different types of steel(mainly speaking of low and high carbon steel) So ferric chloride turns the hard steel dark and leaves the soft steel alone What I was looking for tho was the opposite. So I don't know jack. and I'm back to square one.
  8. neato! cause I do a lot of forge work with scale finish, I had read that ferric chloride had, hydrochloric acid in it, which I understood as a powered up version of vinegar. gonna buy me a bottle or a powder box! thx
  9. hoi! working on some knives with a forge scale finish section and I want to keep that part on, been thinking of getting some ferric chloride to quickly get the contrasts between the 2 steels to show up. does it dissolve scale? cause I know vinegar do. I got 1 jap stone, thats good but...not enough to really bring out the contrast and they be expensive...like an arm or a leg!
  10. Hooh? you can build them that small? and portable? well well well, what have we here? looks like another future project. "rubs hands together menacingly" >:D btw I got about maybe 3-4kg of steel shavings in total 1-2 kg of high carbon steel 1-2 kg of low carbon steel and maybe another kg from my sen-dai steel shaving tray the problem Im seeing tho, is the bellows. I only got 1 fuigo rn and that one is permanently mounted to my forge....
  11. Yea, I'm definitely way to deep already, I was thinking of just sprinkling it on top of a bar and trying to make it solid. But sure, why don't I just try to make a bloom XD @Alan Longmire Yep side blast charcoal forge, with fuigo bellows, currently rebuilding for the 4th time it to give it even more "umpf" no idea how much it takes to make bloom steel or crucible stuff tho
  12. I once visited a machine shop and got to play with their mill, afterwards being a recyclist I collected the high carbon steel shavings and took em home. The stuff is completely funked up with machinist juice, so I'm wondering what would happen if I tried to just weld it to some low carbon bar, with some borax. Anyone heard or tried anything like that?
  13. Really you recon it's burnt!? I swear that I welded and forged it without sparks flying! But maybe the heat shot up too fast, which caused the steel too be more stressed? When I started refining the blanks the forge was already at forge welding temp. Wrought iron would be a dream to have, l source most of my stuff locally, sadly haven't come across wrought iron yet... But the option on website seems surprisingly affordable! Really I thought it be 3x as much.
  14. I had read that one of the purposes of having mild carbon steel and a paper thin core was to help reduce sharpening time? most of the circular sawblades around here are highly hardenable even the ones with brazed on carbide! and I had some weird welding times with some, so I've been avoiding it...I think it was chrome vanadium and some kinda HSS. yo, that could perhaps be, I was operating my fuigo bellow with my foot on the footrest so, maybe I pumped too much air into it? but I didn't get the steel sparking hot, could it still de-carb? here some pictures of t
  15. yea maybe it was a bad section in the bar... I'll try to test the remaining steel, maybe I can find something out not sure I understand this, are you talking about making a san-mai billet with nothing but high carbon steel pieces? but that would kinda defeat the purpose of the san-mai lamination technique but no, no sawmills, we do have a local scrapyard with piles of circular saw blades
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