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J.Leon_Szesny

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  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Japan toolsmithing, whetstone making, woodworking

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  1. hey just today I thought how fun it would be to exchange each other forge craft! turns out that's already a thing? neat! gimme 2-3 years to get ready :'P
  2. yea absolutely love this! I can barely keep up with this level of science but I think/hope I got some of it. what that means, is... but that would mean... if you have two bars of LC steel, you can weld LC steel to LC steel with only one of the two bars having reached full welding heat and vice versa with HC steel?! am I stupid or did I reach the enlightenment moment?
  3. ...I have not gotten around to learning much about brazing or soldering. found a video though that talks about "capillary action" during brazing/soldering, very interesting to have it visualized. I wonder if the same effect has some influence during forge welding? like, the molten steel evenly sucking itself along the joining line of a folded bar?(probably not but asking is free?)
  4. maybe you could remove the rust and just put on an edge? if the edge goes below the bolster, you could grind the bolster down to make it look to form XD the worst seems to be at the tip and that you could fix but it would make the knife shorter. definitely a job for whetstones tho. I mean...anythings better than leaving it to die, right? D":
  5. 1. still don't understand why it high carbon can weld to low carbon, at temps where the low carbon wont weld to itself...does the high carbon get hot faster so it, via transferred heat, turns the contacting low carbon steel surface liquid/weldable? 2. yikes, a month? it'll take me a whole bit longer then...and the price of charcoal has currently doubled... thanks Alan, puts things into perspective, it means I can relax and not worry so much for why I cant find find the sweet spot/temp for welding low carbon steel, yet! the linked thread seems promising :')
  6. I've been through most of the basic standard explanations of forge welding, like, more carbon = lower forge weld temp, slow build up of heat, reducing non oxidizing fire, clean steel, fluxes, etc but questions I couldn't find answers for: 1. why doesn't the high carbon steel burn and crumble at the temps it takes for the low carbon steel to become weldable? (I know that it works but...how exactly?) 2. Is it possible to forge weld low carbon steel at low temps where it wont spark up? (cause so far, I really tried and it wouldn't work...I had to get it really sparking hot to be weldable at all!) I'd appreciate any extra thoughts or advice, im currently learning how to forge weld "good," since material limitations mean I'll need to make my own stock.
  7. sadly not for now...my supply is limited to the hardware store and stuff from the scrapyard. the closest they currently got, is 20mm thick steel but its a giant sheet of the stuff, its unpickuppable for me. other than that would be forge welding, which...I can "kinda" do but not to good yet.
  8. just cause it looks cold and you forgot it was hot doesn't mean you'll get burned any less.
  9. personally I have had some interesting results keeping wood from splitting by lathering on some shoe/leather fat. tested it on some blackthorn due to a shillelagh makers advice and so far it has 0 cracks or splits, where as the test piece from the same branch without the shoe fat...is about to split in two halves. (been almost a year of drying now) also the stuff is really cheap here, cheaper than paint, glue and candles. that being said, haven't tested it on other woods yet
  10. Oh something else to add and I've never heard when starting out and learned the pain way: keep your hands out of the water bucket! if you get a little burn or your hands get hot, don't dunk them in the water unless you're just about done with forging that day. water softens up your skin and your skin will bruise and blister like crazy, especially if you haven't grown some thick skin yet. water is not your friend.
  11. YES! man, that spalting is all over and in different shades and shapes. I find spalted wood look good when they're cut a little bit diagonally from the end grain. if you cut it straight you get straighter spalted lines the higher the angle the more the mosaic pattern, cause the fungus follows the grain of the wood I have some spalted maple myself and the stuff doesn't like being planed even with sharp honed plane irons, it really likes to crumble and tear out since the wood has weakened, which also makes it easy to work with rasps. I would be careful tho with the dust, depending on what your using to work the spalted maple, it can get really dusty.
  12. hm how big a chunk of steel we talking? like...you making anvils? Im a pale-man and the closest I ever got was, mild sunburn on the arm during intensely hot forge welding practice(I literally, accidentally melted my steel) and that was because I didn't have very long tongs or a glove. If you have tongs that are 20-40cm (8"-15") long, you should be ok. you should be worried of burning yourself if your face is constantly 30cm (11") from the forges hottest part for multiple minutes at a time. for bigger chunks radiating tons of heat id say thick gloves and maybe some welding sleeves. if you're forging stuff that's like...sledge hammer head size, might be enough to just wear a glove on your non dominant hand. that's what a lot of blacksmiths do, left hand glove, right hand free for hammer gripping and picking cold stuff up. give us some reference for what kinda things you're looking to forge? ps: definitely avoid any and all synthetic fabrics! its better to burn than to melt! XD cotton, leather, chain mail, linen(I like thick linen the best)
  13. hm aight two people saying 20 degrees, then I go with that first. tipped egg, hmm that sounds like an idea! this?
  14. 20 degree bevel? hm Im not sure that would work for the dies I have, they are very thin, 8mm(which is fine since they're for small work) but ill keep that number in mind if I ever make a bigger guillotine with thicker dies.
  15. oh no, this looks really nice... I agree with the guys, too clean, cant handle it. I'd have oil stains, burn marks, wood shavings and metal dust all over the floor, tables, walls and ceiling within 2 weeks. Id recommend you try to find some of "these," to add to your shop: quick release woodworking vice (first real tool and smartest thing I ever bought) whetstones (300#, 1000#, 6000#, 8000# 10.000#, strop) hand planes 2x bench hooks Japanese pull saw/'s
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