Jump to content

J.Leon_Szesny

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. hey just today I thought how fun it would be to exchange each other forge craft! turns out that's already a thing? neat! gimme 2-3 years to get ready :'P
  2. yea absolutely love this! I can barely keep up with this level of science but I think/hope I got some of it. what that means, is... but that would mean... if you have two bars of LC steel, you can weld LC steel to LC steel with only one of the two bars having reached full welding heat and vice versa with HC steel?! am I stupid or did I reach the enlightenment moment?
  3. ...I have not gotten around to learning much about brazing or soldering. found a video though that talks about "capillary action" during brazing/soldering, very interesting to have it visualized. I wonder if the same effect has some influence during forge welding? like, the molten steel evenly sucking itself along the joining line of a folded bar?(probably not but asking is free?)
  4. maybe you could remove the rust and just put on an edge? if the edge goes below the bolster, you could grind the bolster down to make it look to form XD the worst seems to be at the tip and that you could fix but it would make the knife shorter. definitely a job for whetstones tho. I mean...anythings better than leaving it to die, right? D":
  5. 1. still don't understand why it high carbon can weld to low carbon, at temps where the low carbon wont weld to itself...does the high carbon get hot faster so it, via transferred heat, turns the contacting low carbon steel surface liquid/weldable? 2. yikes, a month? it'll take me a whole bit longer then...and the price of charcoal has currently doubled... thanks Alan, puts things into perspective, it means I can relax and not worry so much for why I cant find find the sweet spot/temp for welding low carbon steel, yet! the linked thread seems promising :')
  6. I've been through most of the basic standard explanations of forge welding, like, more carbon = lower forge weld temp, slow build up of heat, reducing non oxidizing fire, clean steel, fluxes, etc but questions I couldn't find answers for: 1. why doesn't the high carbon steel burn and crumble at the temps it takes for the low carbon steel to become weldable? (I know that it works but...how exactly?) 2. Is it possible to forge weld low carbon steel at low temps where it wont spark up? (cause so far, I really tried and it wouldn't work...I had to get it really sparking hot to be weldable at all!) I'd appreciate any extra thoughts or advice, im currently learning how to forge weld "good," since material limitations mean I'll need to make my own stock.
  7. sadly not for now...my supply is limited to the hardware store and stuff from the scrapyard. the closest they currently got, is 20mm thick steel but its a giant sheet of the stuff, its unpickuppable for me. other than that would be forge welding, which...I can "kinda" do but not to good yet.
  8. just cause it looks cold and you forgot it was hot doesn't mean you'll get burned any less.
  9. personally I have had some interesting results keeping wood from splitting by lathering on some shoe/leather fat. tested it on some blackthorn due to a shillelagh makers advice and so far it has 0 cracks or splits, where as the test piece from the same branch without the shoe fat...is about to split in two halves. (been almost a year of drying now) also the stuff is really cheap here, cheaper than paint, glue and candles. that being said, haven't tested it on other woods yet
  10. Oh something else to add and I've never heard when starting out and learned the pain way: keep your hands out of the water bucket! if you get a little burn or your hands get hot, don't dunk them in the water unless you're just about done with forging that day. water softens up your skin and your skin will bruise and blister like crazy, especially if you haven't grown some thick skin yet. water is not your friend.
  11. YES! man, that spalting is all over and in different shades and shapes. I find spalted wood look good when they're cut a little bit diagonally from the end grain. if you cut it straight you get straighter spalted lines the higher the angle the more the mosaic pattern, cause the fungus follows the grain of the wood I have some spalted maple myself and the stuff doesn't like being planed even with sharp honed plane irons, it really likes to crumble and tear out since the wood has weakened, which also makes it easy to work with rasps. I would be careful tho with the dust, depending on what your using to work the spalted maple, it can get really dusty.
  12. hm how big a chunk of steel we talking? like...you making anvils? Im a pale-man and the closest I ever got was, mild sunburn on the arm during intensely hot forge welding practice(I literally, accidentally melted my steel) and that was because I didn't have very long tongs or a glove. If you have tongs that are 20-40cm (8"-15") long, you should be ok. you should be worried of burning yourself if your face is constantly 30cm (11") from the forges hottest part for multiple minutes at a time. for bigger chunks radiating tons of heat id say thick gloves and maybe some welding sleeves. if you're forging stuff that's like...sledge hammer head size, might be enough to just wear a glove on your non dominant hand. that's what a lot of blacksmiths do, left hand glove, right hand free for hammer gripping and picking cold stuff up. give us some reference for what kinda things you're looking to forge? ps: definitely avoid any and all synthetic fabrics! its better to burn than to melt! XD cotton, leather, chain mail, linen(I like thick linen the best)
  13. hm aight two people saying 20 degrees, then I go with that first. tipped egg, hmm that sounds like an idea! this?
  14. 20 degree bevel? hm Im not sure that would work for the dies I have, they are very thin, 8mm(which is fine since they're for small work) but ill keep that number in mind if I ever make a bigger guillotine with thicker dies.
  15. oh no, this looks really nice... I agree with the guys, too clean, cant handle it. I'd have oil stains, burn marks, wood shavings and metal dust all over the floor, tables, walls and ceiling within 2 weeks. Id recommend you try to find some of "these," to add to your shop: quick release woodworking vice (first real tool and smartest thing I ever bought) whetstones (300#, 1000#, 6000#, 8000# 10.000#, strop) hand planes 2x bench hooks Japanese pull saw/'s
  16. I can maybe add some food for thought to what Alan is talking about(the Hc steel deforming in quench blowing the weld apart) In Japanese Blacksmithing its a common technique to intentionally bend the kitchen knives over to the side of the Hc steel that way during the quench they will natural straighten themselves out (what little deformation remains is addressed after tempering by bending the knives in a wooden block with slots sawed into and using a small hand held steel tapping tool to hammer on the low carbon steel.) maybe that could help reduce the bending and the stress on the weld during quench. and there's the cold forging Japanese technique to compress only the low carbon steel before the quench that also reduces deformation?(haven't read much on this yet so...hmm)
  17. the leading edge is not sharp but maybe considering the dies are so slim I should've extended the blunt edge, and the angle higher? its like 45-50 degrees I think. good thought!
  18. Honestly, great! thanks Alan, exactly what I needed today. I am, dying XD and they did it "for science?" oh man, this cant be real!
  19. recently made a guillotine and some dies, problem im having is, I must've shaped the butcher dies to an overly acute angle, so I had trouble getting in there to forge the butchered section into a smooth tang and got a lil cold shut. Im thinking I need to raise the angle to get more working clearance to forge shoulders and such but my dies are only 8 mm thick (0.3").... anyway, tell to me, what angles you got on your butcher dies/tools? did you have problems with certain angles? whats the golden standard for butcher die/tools thickness, height and displacement/bevel(?) angle?
  20. wow this thread evolved well in my absence, so much information I've since mixed up a cup of test flux made from borax and iron powder(Fe)(?) tested on red heat about 700-800 degrees Celsius. It took awhile to find the right ratio, if I had too much iron powder, the flux wouldn't stick and instead lift itself off the steel. I sadly couldn't tell you the ratio, I just kept adding borax to the iron powder and testing it continuously until it, instead of lifting itself off, formed a solid glassy black coating. Im assuming that's good but I have very little reference for how this type of flux should behave. Alan, if you're interested in Chinese forge work, have you heard about the Chinese Swordsmith who uses human bones? he says it gives them a special "aura" and vikings did the same believing it imbued their swords with "magic," magic like, stronger, tougher, longer sharp. sounds to me like carbon! link to the video:
  21. Oh right, Iron can also be made for consumption, maybe I shouldn't forget that! Iron deficiency is not fun or helpful, especially for artisans. I already asked on amazon if it was (Fe) iron or just steel powder the answer was: "yes" im assuming "yes" to it being pure iron?
  22. Will, I had a look around and did find some iron powders advertised as chemical symbol (Fe) which is pure iron and those were not much more expensive than the stuff I bought. Im starting to think I bought pure iron powder, its no guarantee but all products called "iron powder," that had a description of a chemical symbols, said (Fe) and I couldn't even find steel powder. this makes me think that they purposefully make (Fe) powder for labs and don't even bother with making steel powder. since maybe there's just no market and all the labs would probably have more interest in the pure element and not some alloy. does that sound plausible/possible? I would kind of prefer it to be steel but maybe seeing that the grains are literally dust, it wont effect the temperature at which it become weldable? ps: strangely enough I found a comment on one of the "iron powders" products, that was written by a german blacksmith who said he bought it to mix it with his flux...sadly he didn't say any more.
  23. the packaging was not much of help "eisen pulver 500g"(iron powder 1.1lbs) I got it from amazon and there its advertised as "something you mix into wall paint to make magnets stick to walls and or use in school for science or Physik" so the first description doesn't help much but if its "for science," maybe that raises the chances of it being just iron. here is the link https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01GJIL9L0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so far the only idea I could come up with is: melt a little of the powder into a small billet and spark test it.
  24. Not sure about the medical benefits but that sounds like snack food? also maybe it helps with the pain since alcohol loosens muscles thus reducing tension and strain on afflicted areas? I dunno but ill try this one day. rum, jar, raisins in, 2 weeks later, throw some powdered sugar on them and leave to dry. I know the article said something about alcohol with berries(junipers?) buy hey, raisins are grapes, and grapes are berries, right? thanks for sharing, I love food
  25. Hey, So my question, is there any magical sciency way to tell whether something is steel or iron, if its in powder form? I bought some "iron powder" but...is it really "iron" though? because if it is, im not sure it would be smart to use, since wrought iron welds at much higher temps than steel. Im planning to mix this into my borax to make a welding flux that will hopefully help fill in any small gaps and valleys, from forging the two steels to forge weld. (I don't have access to tools for precision ground steel blanks) So that's why im a little concerned about the actual metal this powder comes from. Im planning to forge weld steel together at the lowest possible temperature and even though it is "powder" im concerned that if it's iron, that it might act as an obstruction. or do you think it really wont matter since the grains are small enough to melt at low temps regardless of the carbon content? borax does lower the melting point but I don't know. ps: hm forums section is about "heat treating?" but it says "metallurgy," am I posting in the wrong place?
×
×
  • Create New...