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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. @Brian Myers hey, that looks exactly like the picture I was sent, except better quality! yea my design was just a first draft, just drew it for understanding the general shape. I was thinking of something like 60-80mm total blade length and maybe. thanks for the measurements. but I still would go with threaded tang to have a removable guard. I think that would also make sharpening the blade from tip to the heel easier.
  2. I was requested to make a carving knife. this drawing was taken from the reference picture, I was sent. I modified the design and added a tapered ferrule and a threaded tang so the guard could be removed (since I felt like it might be in the way and the reference picture I had been sent might've not been a carving knife? never seen them w guards) this would be San-mai laminated and is intended for children. so whatcha think? anything I might need to think off? add? retract?
  3. Made a Japanese blade/swordsmith hammer and tested it by forging a kiridashi. Computer - Shortcut.lnk0449-1953.mp4 VID_20200507_185226.mp4 VID_20200507_185226.mp4 VID_20200501_190933(0).mp4
  4. This might be something to read/look at, some of it is readable with google translate, if you have some prior knowledge and can mind bend yourself to figure out what this nonsense could mean but the pictures could be interesting anyway. http://www7b.biglobe.ne.jp/~osaru/midokoro.htm#jihada
  5. I went to the hardware store and bought "all of the charcoal" not a panic hamster buy. just a regular "they reduced the price so im buying everything" kinda buy, lol so if were going to get locked in, my forge got food, 80-90 kg will last at least a little while. other than that im not too worried, im sure this thing will be over before we know it. although...gotta be honest, this is the first time in my life I've experienced something like this. supermarket counters got plastic screens raised, and multiple security guards??! also, no more paying with cards, hard cash only. kinda interesting.
  6. aaah! hammer tapers toward the face so "the small face is better suited for working on a narrow target, keeping the hammer from hitting the anvil as the bevel gets thinner" I forgot, lol. also there's the video I was talking about! cool thx man, wasn't sure where it was angled handle or angled eye, in the end It both works, thats how I see it.
  7. Not to be an elitist but arn't japanese blade/swordsmiths hammers supposed to taper down toward the face rather than the back? I remember a video of a japanese blacksmith talking about their hammers and anvils and the reasons for why the handles/heads are angled, but I dont remember if he talked about the taper of the hammers head...hm imma go look it up. if I find it, wanna see? he is speaking in english :'P
  8. wow thats got some crazy stuff going on. though I wouldnt wanna touch that with hand woodworking tools, the grain seems to be going in every which direction and back. im also currently working w walnut wood, I really like the smell, I would describe it as "mellow and rustic comfort" other people tho...have told me it makes me smell like I came out of an old building... eeeyeah...maybe watch out for that, if youre planning on meeting folks after XD
  9. wow and suddenly getting married and sharing your life with another person doesn't seem so strange or scary. Media: "less and less young people are getting married" Bladesmiths: "dude, Powerhammer? Hydraulic Press? a person who supports your madness?"
  10. mhm yah, true, a knife isn't always used like a fixed position instrument, like a saw or plane.
  11. Jerky speeds? does it seem like it "stutters?" or "jumps?" might be a damaged commutator bar on the armature assembly. but I don't really count as "electrically smart folk" XD
  12. the first handle I ever made (saw handle) I measured by using a piece of clay and squeezing it until, my fingers were just about to reach my palm. that shape I then roughly transferred onto paper and made a handle from it and I cant complain, its perfectly shaped to my hand after all but that's just one way of making a handle, not sure how good that works for knives but... I mean cant go wrong with something that perfectly tailored to your grip right?
  13. Definitely a few ways better than, the "knife-ish" abomination I made first time. XD
  14. pretty ^-^ I think I've heard of what you're talking about w the second hamon line before, there was a Japanese name for it but I cant remember, its like a faint transition line just between the soft and hard steel. I like the form, it looks slim and nimble
  15. you could use it as an engraving or hot cutting anvil, if its not too hard. or delegate it to being an "outside" anvil, something small to carry around maybe to blacksmith meets or to couple w a portable forge set up?
  16. And so it begins. just don't get into Japanese blacksmithing...that's...a bit...
  17. A Sen-Dai is an workbench functioning with wedges to clamp work pieces down or sideways. especially useful for operations like polishing the surfaces of blades. The bench is very easy to build and requires minimal woodworking/blacksmithing skill. something on the level of a weekend project :"P
  18. man, that looks like fire! no seriously, the pattern kinda looks like flames, awesome work!
  19. I thought to post this here(?) and see if maybe this might be helpful to someone. Togi-Dai are commonly seen used by sword/Katana polishers, however they are also used widely by blacksmiths of different crafts not just sword smiths. A Togi-Dai is a unique area purely for water-whetstone work, were a craftsman can work on grinding, shaping and sharpening all manner of tools/work pieces. this is my version of it, build from...scrap, so dont consider this a "perfect build" but rather a "poormans" inspirational video? timestamps to jump to the construction of the different parts, are in the description.
  20. hey just today I thought how fun it would be to exchange each other forge craft! turns out that's already a thing? neat! gimme 2-3 years to get ready :'P
  21. yea absolutely love this! I can barely keep up with this level of science but I think/hope I got some of it. what that means, is... but that would mean... if you have two bars of LC steel, you can weld LC steel to LC steel with only one of the two bars having reached full welding heat and vice versa with HC steel?! am I stupid or did I reach the enlightenment moment?
  22. ...I have not gotten around to learning much about brazing or soldering. found a video though that talks about "capillary action" during brazing/soldering, very interesting to have it visualized. I wonder if the same effect has some influence during forge welding? like, the molten steel evenly sucking itself along the joining line of a folded bar?(probably not but asking is free?)
  23. maybe you could remove the rust and just put on an edge? if the edge goes below the bolster, you could grind the bolster down to make it look to form XD the worst seems to be at the tip and that you could fix but it would make the knife shorter. definitely a job for whetstones tho. I mean...anythings better than leaving it to die, right? D":
  24. 1. still don't understand why it high carbon can weld to low carbon, at temps where the low carbon wont weld to itself...does the high carbon get hot faster so it, via transferred heat, turns the contacting low carbon steel surface liquid/weldable? 2. yikes, a month? it'll take me a whole bit longer then...and the price of charcoal has currently doubled... thanks Alan, puts things into perspective, it means I can relax and not worry so much for why I cant find find the sweet spot/temp for welding low carbon steel, yet! the linked thread seems promising :')
  25. I've been through most of the basic standard explanations of forge welding, like, more carbon = lower forge weld temp, slow build up of heat, reducing non oxidizing fire, clean steel, fluxes, etc but questions I couldn't find answers for: 1. why doesn't the high carbon steel burn and crumble at the temps it takes for the low carbon steel to become weldable? (I know that it works but...how exactly?) 2. Is it possible to forge weld low carbon steel at low temps where it wont spark up? (cause so far, I really tried and it wouldn't work...I had to get it really sparking hot to be weldable at all!) I'd appreciate any extra thoughts or advice, im currently learning how to forge weld "good," since material limitations mean I'll need to make my own stock.
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