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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. @Tim Cook I am using the standard hoses that came with the roxy set, so it should be a propane hose? @Aiden CChm not sure about grease, the oily liquid is pretty much like sewing machine oil, very runny and thin and maybe a bit less oily. I shouldve tried to light it on fire! but prior to fully noticing it, I think I did fiddle with the torch, just running the propane and there was no residual flame after shutting off the propane valve, soo im guessing it's maaaaybe, not a very flammable oil? I have it drained out now and its doesn't seem to be back. Yet.
  2. Not at all, I have it mounted in a stand, so it's always stand-ing upright. I let the hose hang off a shelf to drip it all out overnight, by now I have atleast a full pint worth that's come out of it and it doesn't even look like it's all drained yet.
  3. I noticed there's some clear oily liquid dripping out of the nozzle and it's preventing the propane from properly burning so the oxygen just blows out the flame. I'm not sure if it's my fault or if it's the cold weather or if this is normal?
  4. I'm pretty sure, I can measure just the steel, especially for testing purposes I could even use larger steel sheet/plate. I wont be trying to aim at the steel lying inside my forge, rather pulling it out maybe above the anvil and then, seeing what the gismo says and it wont be more than 3-5 inches away, if distance is a problem and aiming the thing, it should work out? and emissivity can be adjusted on most of these(to an extend?)
  5. my set up is a japanese style charcoal toolsmith forge, I dont think I'll ever bother trying to measure the forges heat. I was thinking of using it as a crutch to learn the temperature of my steel, with different daytime lighting and be somewhat exact with it within 40-60C atleast.
  6. Are they viable/affordable, yet? because I have tried to use a thermocoupler to test and dokument temperatures and those tend to be waay to slow with their readings, Im looking for something that takes about 1-2 seconds to tell me the temperature of the metal, touch and go style or point and shoot. so I'm seeing some that are about 30-50 moneybucks and rated for 800+ to 1200+ celsius. what do I need to know? how do/dont these work for steel? are the affordable ones even usable for quick valid readings? anyone got a cheap one that fits my bill? this is what im looking at, no idea if its good or thrown out money. https://www.ebay.de/itm/154389108174?epid=6030203708&hash=item23f24ed5ce:g:ug8AAOSw~x9iTAqk
  7. @Alan LongmireI got them at 3.5x and the focal lenght seems to be around 40cm(3.5x is advertised to have 42cm Focal length) tho I havent measured it with a ruler, compared to my optivisor lenses, definitely much better. I'd even consider going with 4x magnification, I think those will still have enough focal length, not to strain my neck or interefere with my face in the work, lol. the only drawback I can see, is that they give you a smaller field of view but I dont think thats a problem for engraving where youre working slowly along. I think optivisors seem better for getting a big magnified picture...like, reading? theyre great for reading! how bout this? https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B07XCTDWML/ref=sr_1_7?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=MVFET5K41F30&keywords=Levin+Dental+3.5x&qid=1654081782&sprefix=levin+dental+3.5x%2Caps%2C844&sr=8-7 these are the ones I got, basically the same thing https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B012M3IV80/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=VGTJG23RYJ1W&keywords=dental+loupe+3.5x&qid=1654082110&sprefix=dental+loup+3.5x%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-6 as I understand it, with the insane pricing for these that professional(doctors) use, is due to medical equipment tax(making it extremely expensive, because they can) and due to special fine tune adjustments to the operators specific visiual abilities but from reading up stuff, it seems like for most people, theres not much of a difference between the 1500-5000$ and 30-100$ ones a lot of medical students get told to buy the thousand dollar ones and later give reviews about the cheap ones saying "if I had known...." so that probably says alot?
  8. Have you tried Galilean loupes before? they have become quite affordable, I got one for 50€ with lamp and nice coffer. The focal length is incredible, compared to optivisors. Really High magnification without having to stick your nose into the chisel
  9. So far was all on woodworking tools. Now I got some blades to post here too ^^ this texturing is achieved by using the Sen completely incorrectly, while holding the workpiece incorrectly and its painful to do. Literally. My arms feel beaten, haha... Crosshatch and zigzag pattern. The big one is for my own kitchen, so only did a little on it. Butter iron and shirogami core
  10. I've looked around, the cheapest I can get would be a bosch, without battery and charger. good sawblades for it are sold out of the UK, thanks to brexit the shipping costs more than the sawblade on some listings! so thats a total of atleast 400euro... yikes, definitely not affordable right now. btw, I've seen a couple of these types of shears :https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/blechschere-schlagschere-ddr/2004628525-234-4173 any idea what mechanism is hidden in there? and by the look of the blade, I wonder if the blade comes down like a guillotine, instead of the regular scissor action cut?
  11. so I'm getting into making kitchen knives! and I really need a benchshear, no way about it, so far I've been hacksawing but that is very...bad in many ways. Im trying to cut through 2-3mm iron+carbon steel so whats more powerful, a shear with lever action or one with gears?
  12. I got a link to a blurry zoomed out recording... I'll dig it up later but yes I think the steel might've been 300-400 C. it definitely wasn't red hot
  13. I can't find reference examples to marks and Brian's shears but the japanese style I'm going for ain't got a pivot(and probably not for lack of them being able to make it), besides most blacksmith shears I've seen can only cut 2-3mm thick things. the japanese setup can cut 6-8mm thick in 1-3 strikes. and it's a clean straight cut along an entire 7-10cm long piece
  14. In japanese toolsmithing they got a type of cold shear setup but as usual details are lacking. All I know is, the smith places a small plate on the anvil and his helper positions a flat looking punch over the edge of the plate, then the punch is struck, it makes a "plunk" sound and the steel placed between is sheared off clean. I got 4 ideas how the details might look and considering that the force comes straight from the top, I'd be leaning to number 4 being "it" But will appreciate a second opinion on steel shearing.
  15. Coldworking or cold forging is something I have to do as part of the process to adjust the tools to the final shape. "New grains from coldworking" is bad right? Jup. I'm trying to get to 100% or atleast 95% of the best possible results for shirogami, fine grain-ness is the missing part... I tried thermal cycling which grew the grains and tried multiple quenches, which yes, cracked the steel! but refined the grain quite nicely(obvs not a usable technique for me tho) still it ain't there yet... Left side is iron right side is shirogami. Cut with a bolt shear like a barbarian.
  16. dang, alright well it's good to have confirmation, then I guess I wont waste my time staring at unhardened steel like looking thru a key slot. I'm struggling with shirogami right now, which is an extremely pure carbon steel and I can get it to be fine grained(better than the factory grains of a good file) but I know its not quite 100% honestly it's starting to feel hopeless or like I'm going mad but I'm soo close, maybe?!
  17. I'm currently trying to figure out how to know for sure what and if I did wrong. to do this analyzing it would help if I could tell the grain size before hardening and breaking the piece. what types of acid could show the grain structure of non-alloy carbon steel, before and after hardening? all I got is ferric chloride and vinegar... are there any other ways to test grain structure before hardening? I dont imagine trying to break my soft & bendy annealed steel will give me a clear result.. this video shows metal grain structure via etching
  18. just a quick simple and hopefully well descriptive video on how to use a basic Sen to carve a basic Ura on the back of japanese tools. hope this is helpful for someone!
  19. 'eello! I'm dabbling in making a spark arrestor for a Japanese style toolsmith forge, first test: "I failed and poisoned myself with smoke and gases" so before I go experimenting and buying meshes of different micron filtering sizes... help, I'm poor what is the biggest size a charcoal/coal particle would need to be in order to ignite? what is the distance of travel of said particles. (100 micron = X distance. 400 micron= X distance. etc...) what is the smallest size a spark would need to be in order to ignite a secondary thing, like a hot summer day-dried leaf 2 meters away? I know this is a long shot in the dark and obscure as all, so even if there're no scientific mathematical equations I would also take guesstimates.
  20. experimenting with shirogami... its hard. everything turns into crap, even tho it should be good and I cant figure out why. spark arrestor didnt work, mesh was too fine and the ash and smoke and gases got pushed in my face. everything is going wrong which is good, cause that means I'm on the right way. wait........yea no, that makes sense.
  21. ura-dashi is done on cold metal, you have to hold the blade/tool with your fingers, even with soft steel it can be done but iron is best, normally its pretty easy, some japanese smiths really beat the crap out of the iron of the bevel part, with no problems and that's how it should be, if you didn't mess up somewhere, the steel should be able to take it without breaking. but I messed up, somewhere!...
  22. so once I'm done welding the carbon steel to the iron, what heats should I never approach, during the forging/shaping? (other than the obvious forging it too cold or continuing to forge it at welding or sparking heat.) what problems could it lead to? can I undo these problems with normalizations? my current steel is shirogami 2 compositon http://zknives.com/knives/steels/shirogami_2.shtml PS: I've been having a few bad runs with shirogami, before, I had used a high chrom moly steel.. been trying new techniques, which leads to new problems? 3x normalized, coated with thin clay for better hardening, hardened in hot water, immediately tempered to 220C (430F) and broke during ura-dashi. some had perfectly fine grain, some terribly big grain. the ones with good and fine grain were worse, since I don't know why they broke. (ura-dashi is where you lightly hammer on the iron to push the steel lamination downwards to form the cutting edge of japanese tools.)
  23. As I started grinding the bevel this stuff appeared on the inside. weird spots + lines in the hardsteel(shirogami) This is butter iron and shirogami forge welded As can be seen by the quick polish, this is not part of the weld seam. Or is it? And I just had carbon bleed into the iron? I used cast iron flux. Or did I while forming the tip fold and weld in some stuff?(cuz the shirogami shouldn't be this thick considering I used 1,5mm) Or is it cracked and or ruined? It doesn't quite look like a crack, it's not clean enough for that...I think???
  24. Is it? the only times I found "cast iron powder" the items detail description said (Fe) Iron powder seems easy to buy, it's being sold as food, for chemistry and paint/art stuff. For cast iron powder tho...no idea where that would be applied on the open consumer market. I guess I would have to directly order it from the source?
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