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Posts posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. depending on what you want to use it for, I would maybe go back to the grinder to thin down the edge, it is looking a bit thick for a general purpose knife?
    for carburization it is important to hold the blade at the austhenitic temperature so the carbon can migrate and be absorbed. for mild steel that point should be 800-850 Celsius.

    If you go higher than 1000C, that can lead to carbon loss.
    time and temperature lead to transformations.

    the thinner the steel the faster the transformation occurs but you still need the right temperature.

    if you want to generally improve in forging,

    make or buy decent tongs!
    learn hammer technique

    get a good hammer with a properly dressed face

    make more tongs

    then, study metalurgy

    -then throw it out and study japanese forge philosophy

    agonize for 5 years until you reach enlightenment
    congrats you improved!-

  2. 5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    I've seen fuigo plans somewhere before...   I've also heard recommended that you line the "birdhouse" with acrylic sheet or other hard smooth flat surface, as it allows the piston seal to both work more smoothly and to last longer. 

    AAH I forgot to add that part!!
    the birdhouse tho is the little front part, where the inside vents pump the air into the pipe, the piston and glass/acryllic would be located behind that in the main box.
    well damn, guess my plans were only 98% complete...
    maan...I hope this wont mean I ave to start it all from the beginning to account for the frikking 2mm of acryllic/glass. :o

    Yea I have seen Dans monster Fuigo, also messaged him some years ago, to help with vacuum seal air blockage and Fuigo set up stuff(too tight, no bueno).
    but these Fuigo plans are supposed to be more traditional, so that everyone can take a shot at building it, from simplistic box making, to highly japanophilically traditionally detailed...box making.
    who was it that said "woodworking is just making boxes?" -yes.

  3. FIRST! well probably not quite but so far I have not seen anyone share Fuigo blueprints least not complete ones.
    But all good things come to an end? only a matter of time.
    Hopefully people will take this as inspiration to descend into the darker side of forging and maybe make blueprints of Fuigos that are better looking than mine.(cause honestly I'm not sure how coherent this is...I tried...)

    Also, sorry for the metrics...but I'm sure with a bit of tweaking and an inch converter it'll be fineee.
    If anyone got questions, asked and I'll try to explain what we're looking at here or what does why.


    The measurements are based on Japanese fuigos and data gathered from Japanese craftsmen and pictures as well as other artisans and experience.
    then I converted some of it to match my local supplies, by that we're talking about a 1-2mm difference surprisingly a lot of european standard measurements are similar or close to the japanese measure of 3s.
    This would be for a sword smith Fuigo, making it more powerful than a Fuigo for smaller toolmaking


    Scan_20240113 (2).png

    Scan_20240113 (3).png

    Scan_20240113 (4).png

    Scan_20240113 (5).png

    Scan_20240113 (6).png

    Scan_20240113 (7).png

    Scan_20240113 (8).png

    PS: right click, "open in new tab" for better quality and zoomin. Maybe hmm

    • Like 1
  4. I got a K type rod on this,

    So I set my thermometer to type K

    But I read that type K and type J both work to measure high temps.


    Problem is that if I switch the type, the displayed temperature drastically changes.


    So I'm a bit uncertain which is the true reading, if that makes sense...





  5. 5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Well, you can grind off the excess on the thicker side.  If it's a little off center it might be fixable, but there is a point of no return.  

    No need my beautiful bearded fellow!


    Feast thy eyes!

    On a forge corrected sanmai core! :D


    It works after all

    But this is just a theory,

    Now I need to further proof it. Prob by Intentionally off centering a core and beating it into the center




  6. On 4/9/2023 at 12:34 AM, Alan Longmire said:

    Billy covered it, to prevent one side from getting too thin you have to alternate sides every heat and count your hammer blows.  If it were easy, everyone would do it.

    So basically once it goes off center, it's just game over?


    I refuse to believe that it can't be manipulated somehow, to nudge it back.

    If you can hammer it off center, then it should also be possible to hammer it back, center.

    Right? Has to be.


  7. I've been making some san-mai kitchen knives and the core keeps going off center.

    Material butter iron and shirogami 2.

    Method, hand hammering.

    I start out with the core being centered, even measured it but...


    So I tried to see what happens, if I only forge on the side that has more iron, thinking if I displace it more than the anvil would the thinner side, I could thin it and the core would be centered.

    That thinking seemed very incorrect, it made it so much worse.


    So I'll try the opposite now.


    Anyone know for certain how to beat the sides so the core keeps being in center?


  8. 3 hours ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said:

    I think those Baker Forge pieces are etched and patinated for maximum contrast. I suspect that with different finishing they will look just like the japanese knife in your first picture.


    alternatively you could look for a mokume-gane blank and weld/braze that to your core steel. I know some knife suppliers sell ready made mokume guard blanks that might be enough for a small blade.

    I thought about that but I dont know if the quench would play nicely with it, during the quench the white metals would get annealed while the hard steel(shirogami1 1.35%c) would bend like crazy?
    and that is ok to an extend, Japanese forgings usually get hammer corrected on the final stages anyway but, I fear it might be too extrem with just white metals and itll tear itself loose?
    especially on something like a single sided laminate kiridashi

  9. 5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Because the copper is so thin compared to the steel, usually.  It's a large braze joint, basically.  Like other damascus, very thin layers seem larger when ground to blade shape.

    so glad someone ackonwledged that it's BRAZING! I had a heated convo about this with a guy once hahaha
    but I dont know maybe it's another case of the dreadful "forge thick grind, thin philosphy"

    this is a screenshot of baker forge and tools copper/brassmascus pieces and the ratio seem to be equal on them(ecept for the core steel)

  10. @Tim Cook I am using the standard hoses that came with the roxy set, so it should be a propane hose?

    @Aiden CChm not sure about grease, the oily liquid is pretty much like sewing machine oil, very runny and thin and maybe a bit less oily.

    I shouldve tried to light it on fire!
    but prior to fully noticing it, I think I did fiddle with the torch, just running the propane and there was no residual flame after shutting off the propane valve, soo im guessing it's maaaaybe, not a very flammable oil?

    I have it drained out now and its doesn't seem to be back. Yet.

  11. 14 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    By chance have you turned the propane cylinder on its side?  That can allow the goo (methyl mercaptan in an oily base) they put in there to add odor to leak out.  Gas cylinders should always be used as close to upright as possible.

    Not at all, I have it mounted in a stand, so it's always stand-ing upright.

    I let the hose hang off a shelf to drip it all out overnight, by now I have atleast a full pint worth that's come out of it and it doesn't even look like it's all drained yet.







  12.  I noticed there's some clear oily liquid dripping out of the nozzle and it's preventing the propane from properly burning so the oxygen just blows out the flame.

    I'm not sure if it's my fault or if it's the cold weather or if this is normal?


  13. I'm pretty sure, I can measure just the steel, especially for testing purposes I could even use larger steel sheet/plate.
    I wont be trying to aim at the steel lying inside my forge, rather pulling it out maybe above the anvil and then, seeing what the gismo says

    and it wont be more than 3-5 inches away, if distance is a problem and aiming the thing, it should work out?
    and emissivity can be adjusted on most of these(to an extend?)

  14. my set up is a japanese style charcoal toolsmith forge,
    I dont think I'll ever bother trying to measure the forges heat.
    I was thinking of using it as a crutch to learn the temperature of my steel, with different daytime lighting and be somewhat exact with it within 40-60C atleast.


  15. Are they viable/affordable, yet?
    because I have tried to use a thermocoupler to test and dokument temperatures and those tend to be waay to slow with their readings,
    Im looking for something that takes about 1-2 seconds to tell me the temperature of the metal, touch and go style or point and shoot.
    so I'm seeing some that are about 30-50 moneybucks and rated for 800+ to 1200+ celsius.
    what do I need to know?
    how do/dont these work for steel?
    are the affordable ones even usable for quick valid readings?
    anyone got a cheap one that fits my bill?

    this is what im looking at, no idea if its good or thrown out money.


  16. @Alan LongmireI got them at 3.5x and the focal lenght seems to be around 40cm(3.5x is advertised to have 42cm Focal length)
    tho I havent measured it with a ruler, compared to my optivisor lenses, definitely much better.
    I'd even consider going with 4x magnification, I think those will still have enough focal length, not to strain my neck or interefere with my face in the work, lol.
    the only drawback I can see, is that they give you a smaller field of view but I dont think thats a problem for engraving where youre working slowly along.

    I think optivisors seem better for getting a big magnified picture...like, reading?
    theyre great for reading!


    how bout this?

    these are the ones I got, basically the same thing

    as I understand it, with the insane pricing for these that professional(doctors) use, is due to medical equipment tax(making it extremely expensive, because they can) and due to special fine tune adjustments to the operators specific visiual abilities
    but from reading up stuff, it seems like for most people, theres not much of a difference between the 1500-5000$ and 30-100$ ones
    a lot of medical students get told to buy the thousand dollar ones and later give reviews about the cheap ones saying "if I had known...."
    so that probably says alot?

  17. So far was all on woodworking tools.

    Now I got some blades to post here too ^^


    this texturing is achieved by using the Sen completely incorrectly, while holding the workpiece incorrectly and its painful to do. Literally.

    My arms feel beaten, haha...


    Crosshatch and zigzag pattern.

    The big one is for my own kitchen, so only did a little on it.


    Butter iron and shirogami core






    • Like 1
  18. On 5/29/2022 at 2:15 PM, Alan Longmire said:

    Geared, usually.  But you need a bandsaw.  A little portable one will work fine.  I know you're in Germany and they are not as common there, but see if you can find a Milwaukee Portaband or equivalent. Make a mount so it can sit vertically, get a high quality bimetal blade, and you're set for years.

    I've looked around, the cheapest I can get would be a bosch, without battery and charger. good sawblades for it are sold out of the UK, thanks to brexit the shipping costs more than the sawblade on some listings!
    so thats a total of atleast 400euro...
    yikes, definitely not affordable right now.

    btw, I've seen a couple of these types of shears :https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/blechschere-schlagschere-ddr/2004628525-234-4173
    any idea what mechanism is hidden in there?
    and by the look of the blade, I wonder if the blade comes down like a guillotine, instead of the regular scissor action cut?

  19. so I'm getting into making kitchen knives!
    and I really need a benchshear, no way about it, so far I've been hacksawing but that is very...bad in many ways.
    Im trying to cut through 2-3mm iron+carbon steel


    so whats more powerful, a shear with lever action or one with gears?

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