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J.Leon_Szesny

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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. the packaging was not much of help "eisen pulver 500g"(iron powder 1.1lbs) I got it from amazon and there its advertised as "something you mix into wall paint to make magnets stick to walls and or use in school for science or Physik" so the first description doesn't help much but if its "for science," maybe that raises the chances of it being just iron. here is the link https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01GJIL9L0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so far the only idea I could come up with is: melt a little of the powder into a small billet and spark test it.
  2. Not sure about the medical benefits but that sounds like snack food? also maybe it helps with the pain since alcohol loosens muscles thus reducing tension and strain on afflicted areas? I dunno but ill try this one day. rum, jar, raisins in, 2 weeks later, throw some powdered sugar on them and leave to dry. I know the article said something about alcohol with berries(junipers?) buy hey, raisins are grapes, and grapes are berries, right? thanks for sharing, I love food
  3. Hey, So my question, is there any magical sciency way to tell whether something is steel or iron, if its in powder form? I bought some "iron powder" but...is it really "iron" though? because if it is, im not sure it would be smart to use, since wrought iron welds at much higher temps than steel. Im planning to mix this into my borax to make a welding flux that will hopefully help fill in any small gaps and valleys, from forging the two steels to forge weld. (I don't have access to tools for precision ground steel blanks) So that's why im a little concerned about the actual metal this powder comes from. Im planning to forge weld steel together at the lowest possible temperature and even though it is "powder" im concerned that if it's iron, that it might act as an obstruction. or do you think it really wont matter since the grains are small enough to melt at low temps regardless of the carbon content? borax does lower the melting point but I don't know. ps: hm forums section is about "heat treating?" but it says "metallurgy," am I posting in the wrong place?
  4. I would assume that if you send it out to someone they'd heat treat the entire blade(maybe they'd anneal the tang?) the second thing you're talking about is called "differential heat treatment" only the bevel is quenched in oil/water/etc but that process would require them to hold the red hot spine above the quenching substance and not let the heat travel down to the bevel during hardening, so I would not think that's something they would generally do on their own without request. maybe they have more automated methods to do it, I don't how high tech your guy is. "differential heat treatment" gives knives a soft flexible spine, that would make the blade less likely to snap under higher stress, that being said, "tempering" does the same thing, just not as much. for a cleaver I would say, if possible, yes a "differential heat treatment" would give you a bit more insurance if you decide to go chop a cow in half. if you're using it as a kitchen knife and not like a butcher on bones, I think you can get away without a differential heat treat.
  5. you guys are mad! forging while drinking beer?! nothing gained by going easy to the bottle light an' fleety Rum! Rum! Rum! bones like jelly, skull feels num' I am blacksmith got so drunk fell in forge...hmng need more rum!
  6. do you mean "kinds" of other stuff? please tell me that their wonderful and variety rich assortment does not include little children! oh the humanity, literally. In Germany jerky isnt really a thing yet. I'd love to go to a store like that and just buy everything! except the kids jerky, nothing against eating children but I'd feel morally opposed. XD
  7. yea its similar in theory to a sen dai except it works the other way around and is hand held but for all I know it could be that both the hand board and the ground sitting beam are simply called sen dai. yea im familiar with Dave from the crossheart forge aka islandblacksmith, he has already answered and advised me a couple of times, without him and John Burt I never would've build a fuigo @steven smith I haven't reach the stage of making sen yet but I've heard them say that for effective sen scraping you need to "break up/disrupt" the layer of hard forge scale and of course it needs to be as annealed as can be. there might be something with edge geometry but as far as I learned its flat back and 20-30 bevel. I was planing to make the tool from the pics then make sen scrapers with that tool, then a nice heavy beam for a sen dai.
  8. Hoi, I know how to make it and use it but I cant seem to find the name for it. the closest I've come was "togi-ban"-sharpening board, makes sense but...I don't trust google translate with Japanese. anyone know the name, for certain? info: this tool is used for rougher grinding to form the ura "hollow back" of japanese tools.
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