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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. I got a link to a blurry zoomed out recording... I'll dig it up later but yes I think the steel might've been 300-400 C. it definitely wasn't red hot
  2. I can't find reference examples to marks and Brian's shears but the japanese style I'm going for ain't got a pivot(and probably not for lack of them being able to make it), besides most blacksmith shears I've seen can only cut 2-3mm thick things. the japanese setup can cut 6-8mm thick in 1-3 strikes. and it's a clean straight cut along an entire 7-10cm long piece
  3. In japanese toolsmithing they got a type of cold shear setup but as usual details are lacking. All I know is, the smith places a small plate on the anvil and his helper positions a flat looking punch over the edge of the plate, then the punch is struck, it makes a "plunk" sound and the steel placed between is sheared off clean. I got 4 ideas how the details might look and considering that the force comes straight from the top, I'd be leaning to number 4 being "it" But will appreciate a second opinion on steel shearing.
  4. Coldworking or cold forging is something I have to do as part of the process to adjust the tools to the final shape. "New grains from coldworking" is bad right? Jup. I'm trying to get to 100% or atleast 95% of the best possible results for shirogami, fine grain-ness is the missing part... I tried thermal cycling which grew the grains and tried multiple quenches, which yes, cracked the steel! but refined the grain quite nicely(obvs not a usable technique for me tho) still it ain't there yet... Left side is iron right side is shirogami. Cut with a bolt shear like a barbarian.
  5. dang, alright well it's good to have confirmation, then I guess I wont waste my time staring at unhardened steel like looking thru a key slot. I'm struggling with shirogami right now, which is an extremely pure carbon steel and I can get it to be fine grained(better than the factory grains of a good file) but I know its not quite 100% honestly it's starting to feel hopeless or like I'm going mad but I'm soo close, maybe?!
  6. I'm currently trying to figure out how to know for sure what and if I did wrong. to do this analyzing it would help if I could tell the grain size before hardening and breaking the piece. what types of acid could show the grain structure of non-alloy carbon steel, before and after hardening? all I got is ferric chloride and vinegar... are there any other ways to test grain structure before hardening? I dont imagine trying to break my soft & bendy annealed steel will give me a clear result.. this video shows metal grain structure via etching
  7. just a quick simple and hopefully well descriptive video on how to use a basic Sen to carve a basic Ura on the back of japanese tools. hope this is helpful for someone!
  8. 'eello! I'm dabbling in making a spark arrestor for a Japanese style toolsmith forge, first test: "I failed and poisoned myself with smoke and gases" so before I go experimenting and buying meshes of different micron filtering sizes... help, I'm poor what is the biggest size a charcoal/coal particle would need to be in order to ignite? what is the distance of travel of said particles. (100 micron = X distance. 400 micron= X distance. etc...) what is the smallest size a spark would need to be in order to ignite a secondary thing, like a hot summer day-dried leaf 2 meters away? I know this is a long shot in the dark and obscure as all, so even if there're no scientific mathematical equations I would also take guesstimates.
  9. experimenting with shirogami... its hard. everything turns into crap, even tho it should be good and I cant figure out why. spark arrestor didnt work, mesh was too fine and the ash and smoke and gases got pushed in my face. everything is going wrong which is good, cause that means I'm on the right way. wait........yea no, that makes sense.
  10. ura-dashi is done on cold metal, you have to hold the blade/tool with your fingers, even with soft steel it can be done but iron is best, normally its pretty easy, some japanese smiths really beat the crap out of the iron of the bevel part, with no problems and that's how it should be, if you didn't mess up somewhere, the steel should be able to take it without breaking. but I messed up, somewhere!...
  11. so once I'm done welding the carbon steel to the iron, what heats should I never approach, during the forging/shaping? (other than the obvious forging it too cold or continuing to forge it at welding or sparking heat.) what problems could it lead to? can I undo these problems with normalizations? my current steel is shirogami 2 compositon http://zknives.com/knives/steels/shirogami_2.shtml PS: I've been having a few bad runs with shirogami, before, I had used a high chrom moly steel.. been trying new techniques, which leads to new problems? 3x normalized, coated with thin clay for better hardening, hardened in hot water, immediately tempered to 220C (430F) and broke during ura-dashi. some had perfectly fine grain, some terribly big grain. the ones with good and fine grain were worse, since I don't know why they broke. (ura-dashi is where you lightly hammer on the iron to push the steel lamination downwards to form the cutting edge of japanese tools.)
  12. As I started grinding the bevel this stuff appeared on the inside. weird spots + lines in the hardsteel(shirogami) This is butter iron and shirogami forge welded As can be seen by the quick polish, this is not part of the weld seam. Or is it? And I just had carbon bleed into the iron? I used cast iron flux. Or did I while forming the tip fold and weld in some stuff?(cuz the shirogami shouldn't be this thick considering I used 1,5mm) Or is it cracked and or ruined? It doesn't quite look like a crack, it's not clean enough for that...I think???
  13. Is it? the only times I found "cast iron powder" the items detail description said (Fe) Iron powder seems easy to buy, it's being sold as food, for chemistry and paint/art stuff. For cast iron powder tho...no idea where that would be applied on the open consumer market. I guess I would have to directly order it from the source?
  14. I don't know if I can trust machine shops to not have the shavings or swarf mixed with other metals, also haven't been able to find a source to buy cast iron powder, most of it was labeled as cast iron powder but always turned out the fine print read (Fe) I think most people have a drill press or drill and some throw-away cast iron, and producing 100g literally took me only 20-30minutes, which is certainly shorter than what I spend online looking for real cast iron powder. I'm intending to use it for japanese style toolsmithing(iron+hc steel), that's where I heard it's being used.
  15. Cast iron has more carbon in it, this allows for forge welding at lower temperatures, thus preserving the highcarbon steel and also preventing it from bleeding carbon into the softer cladding in the case of laminations. Least so I heard, haven't tried yet.
  16. How to easily quickly make Cast iron powder or shavings, for adding to borax and create a better forge welding flux. 1. 80 grit thin diamond stone And a 100-300 grit small hand held whetstone 2. Drill bit between 5-10mm 4. Cast iron Run your drill press at the low speed, high torque setting, Securely fix/vice the cast iron, Lay a piece of paper beneath to catch the shaving. Resharpen the drill it every 4-8 holes, if you're using stones for this, use thin stones that can be held like a file, rest the drill bit against your bench and file with stones following the angle, check if your filing correctly by looking at the scratches left by the two stones.(ideally this takes -1min) After that, mix it to the borax. One recipe I heard says 2/3 cast iron to 1/3 borax Hope this helps.
  17. I'm trying to do some inlay engraving of a magnolia budding. But it's looking like the sidewalls will be veeery thin and I'm not sure how much that'll be a problem? The materials are shibuichi and butter iron. Basically, does this work?
  18. oh nono, thats not for striking. its a small marking knife ;P shirabiki are usually found as the partner to the kiridashi, the shirabiki can do small pairing work, which is a bit difficult with the kiridashi blade(which can do carving better tho) but both are generally under the category of marking knives and are mainly seen, used as such. the end piece is purely ornamental
  19. Finished. Whetstone shirabiki with suji(toxic whetstone lines) Maybe I should call this "suji-to shirabiki" if that makes sense in japanese. The suji lines are sterling silver wire. The end piece is a bronze silver alloy I cast into cuttlefish bone, threaded and brazed on, it's was engraved to look like the chiseled surface of a japanese whetstone. The piece is forged from German butter iron and laminated 100Cr6 steel. The ura(hollow back) was cut and finished with sen. Finally the piece was sharpened with uchigumori and Nakayama kiita for the final polish. This piece is true-hand crafted. 0% machines ever touched it. It is by no means perfect and there are things I wish would've turned out better. I'd give it 3-4th place.
  20. but I think it was a 2L refill for 150euro (50 to refill) vs a use-up 950ml(1L) for 20euro(used to be 18euro until I started buying them!) so if I got that right...its cheaper to buy the piddly little bottles.. well but thats just at my local hardware store...hm theres probably a better place?
  21. Yea..I noticed, these don't last long. I still haven't used up the propane it came with and had to restock 3oxy bottles. I'm not even sure the refill cannisters are cheaper...not that I can afford it rn anyway(150€ locally.)
  22. @Geoff Keyes oh yeah, making a bell is a great idea. That had been on my list. Not sure how to fill this canister with water prior to cutting tho but that's something to look into
  23. Just wondering cause these feel like they're made of pretty thick...metal, steel? Is there a way to safely open them? Or anything cool/smart these could be used for? This is oxygen btw. I can guess the answers here but just wanting to make sure and get some insights
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