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J.Leon_Szesny

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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. yeeea b-but arguably, if the spoon itself was the flux, I wouldn't need to complicate it by digging around in my borax for the right amount, plus, no spillage, no waste I don't have a problem of getting borax in the crucible...just a problem with seeing it spill or turn into floaty dust from the torch flame. lol. I mainly got this idea from seeing andrew berry tap his melting metal with a borax pestle, it looked so nice!
  2. eyuup so far had no problems with DHL, within the EU... but as soon as I try to get something from US and it gets handed to DHL....suddenly I need signatures and yes it gets send to different cities/ last time I couldnt even get it because I was only notified that the package was send elsewhere, on the last day when it would be send back. took me 3 months to get ebay to agree to refund me(ebay is horrid with refunding...amazon so far tho A++) or getting a ripped open box with zero contents, which...I mean...why did they even bother to deliver that?! or at a pickupstation, the guy actually left me the sticker, the address sticker glued onto the roof of the station box, which I wasn't even mad at that's just such nonsense you gotta laugh XD
  3. I think I might try just water-lumping it together or shellac? since I read that being used as a soldering flux (never tried) but nah boric acid also banned. pretty much all borates are banned(from household/public consumer store or non licensed) you can still buy it online, if you find a website that sells it without having you show a digital license. so you can kinda lowkey legally-illegally get it but...not as readily or cheaply.(import cost from America way high T^T) I also got it from an old pharmacist to order once, 1kg 50euro... and that only worked cuz I told him I'm a smith and he knew what we do with that stuff and also didn't know borax was banned for non licensed smiths(?). the guy since then retired and the predecessors wanted to see a license...even after I told them I'm neither a pregnant woman nor a health junky who'd eat it.... handelskammer and regulations are a real cruel b...banana. just some annoying stuff about germany.
  4. got no kiln! glue, sounds like it would work but also smell like hell. what if I had a metal syringe filled with borax-water paste? if that contacted the melted metal would it...splatter? I mean its not oil but...just asking to be sure.
  5. recently got into metal casting, for inlay engraved tools. in germany borax is a rare blacksmith commodity(cuz its lowkey illegal...) so I'm wondering how to best make a long hard rod of borax, from powder, so I can just dab it on the melting metal instead of sprinkling it everywhere... I don't want to experiment too much and waste it, again...borax is rare round here
  6. hnng aight aight.. any info on finding some nice and palatable introduction to understanding this stuff? (I am kinda...not..smart)
  7. Nordic gold so far seems to be less problematic than trying to throw raw aluminium into a mix.
  8. No idea how to read that but Yea. I think I'll stick to Nordic gold, appearance wise that oughta work. Also, this is what brass with aluminium bronze and phospherous bronze mixed looks like(the one on the left, the right is Nordic gold)
  9. I think I can confirm by now that aluminium is badbad stuff! It seems to makes everything gunk up and that gunk prevents the metal from properly melting and flowing. Which is weird cuz aluminum melts so easily... But as soon as it gets mixed somewhat with copper both metals...ugh
  10. I've been using aluminium wire and used to do it in a forge but recently got a Roxy torch set. Still, forge or Roxy, same gunked up crucible.
  11. @DanM yea, I had it fluxed up but maybe not enough? Still doesn't explain the spongy mess that also resists melting... Right?
  12. I started some metal making for engraving and or other stuff and the aluminum bronze is always incredibly dirty and difficult to manage, half of the metal clumps up into a porous black gunky mass that sticks to my crucible, every time. however, this does not happen with my shibuichi+crucible, that one is nice and clean! no problems! so am I crazy or doing something wrong or is aluminum just an unholy disgusting metal for melting? And that's my shibuichi crucible
  13. I've heard that before but I dont think thats it, running pipe on top the forge back to the bellows then inside the forge doesnt seem possible for the size of the forge. for reference, most fuigo pipes are around 5-7cm(2-3") diameter. thats sounds like something! also when using charcoal perhaps humid air might help to suppress ash particles from floating all around. Pure conjecture on my part here but maybe humid air will make the fine ashes get soaked with water, thus causing them to sink to the ground instead of float and get in your face?
  14. yeh if we're talking about sous vide, that could work pretty good. plus I can easily operate the japanese fuigo bellow with my feet, which leaves my hands free to pour meaty soup from the bag down my gullet. I do get hungry after 4-8hours. that reminds me, I still need to go make a lid for the pot.
  15. I dont think it is for any reasons of consumption XD in pic 3, you can see its a huge open tank which probably inevitably will have some forge gunk in it. the best idea I can come up with is "cold air" the top of the forge is open and connected to a water filled pot that cools the roof of the forge, which sends cold air into the forge from the front opening and the top, cold air presses stuff down, like ash and smoke and charcoal sprinkles. I also observed that the thing connected to the back of the forge is a chimney pipe(im sure) so everything would get pushed back and down the chimney by the cooled air? tho the one smith seems to just have a large barrel instead of a visible chimney, maybe its inside the barrel or theres some kinda filtering system since he,s indoors. strong maybe on that theory. I've already rebuild my forge tho to test this.(not sure I will see a strong indication of proof...)
  16. "Whats in the Pot?!" it's WATER! has to be, looking at the vapor smoke, it can only be water but why? theyre not using it for quenching or...making tea. could it have something to do with the heat in the forge? what would happen if the roof of the forge stayed cooled? these forges also seem to have a draft function as the fire seems to get slightly pulled inside. but how? where to? one smith seems to also have another larger pot/barrel attached to the back of the forge. BUT WHY??! its been on my mind for years, I feel like this IS important knowledge, theyre all making them like this and I need to know why! D:
  17. For years I have seen toolsmith forges, some outdoors some indoors but they all had the same general shape and a strange round thing on top with the same style wooden lid. It can't be a vent for smoke or ash, otherwise the wooden lids would've shown signs of charring but considering some of these forges are indoors, it might still be something that deals with ash... Point is I have no idea. It's there for a reason! Maybe there a tunnels of smaller pipes in the forge roof that lead the ash to the pot lid thing? That...probably makes no sense? Any ideas? Knowledge? Wild theories?
  18. For general straightening I use a wood anvil. This anvil is supposed to be for fine/final adjustments and checking, especially for tools that need precision. Tried those, they were terrible, almost immediately lost grit and or ground themselves up. Maybe there are better ones?
  19. Yaah, I tried flap disks and files and stones...buut thats still a bit too inconsistent, and the flat disk is too aggressive. I hone my anvils with whetstones but pointless to do with how slightly warped it is. This was with flap disk and stone. I got a usable flat section for small knives and plane blades but if I tried to straighten saws or wider knives, that section probably is too small.
  20. Aight, as long as it's not terrible, I'm willing to give it a try.
  21. Yo, I'm wondering how flat these angle grinder pot shaped stone attachments grind surfaces. I got a hard anvil that needs a bit of flattening due to hardening and welding distortion. It has some flat spots I can use, so I'm a bit reluctant to try and potentially ruin it with an angle grinder stone wheel thingy. What's it called in English?
  22. Yah, you totally still could do that, with a Japanese style eye but the idea here is that you're keeping the woods natural integrity and strength fully intact. Most of the time with a wedge I noticed it will eventually wear down and sink, then you either add more wedges or a new handles. The japanese style only needs replacement once the handle breaks, cause slipping is a not a problem and can be fixed, with water. Smack handle butt on anvil, place into water and you're good to go(if it loosened up at all)
  23. Sure can! It's called "Kigorishi" a japanese woodworking technique. Usually used on wood + wood but works for handles as well. A wooden dowel/handle is first prepared to be juust slightly oversized from the mortice/eye, then it is fitted by compressing the wood lightly with a hammer, no material is removed, unless there a big sections clearly in the way. The final finish however is always the hammer compressing the wood to fit. Then lastly it is driven through the mortice/eye and decompressed with oil or water, that way the natural size of the wood is restored, thus you have put "the big, in the small" (It works bc japanese hammer eyes are straight/flat not hourglasses.) (And a little extra in Japanese smithing style since the hammer is usually stored in water or frequently used with water.)
  24. Thanks! So far the hammer has been feeling like magic
  25. Sup! I made this hammer by using the holdless welding method seem by genno smiths, whereby the face is held only in place with flux and charcoal fines. In addition I tried out the japanese technique with a riffle hammer to chequer the softer steel body to help the hardsteel merge more strongly. I think it was quite good? Maybe? I beat my carved out touchmark into it then after the annealing, carried it over to the engraving bench and after praying to Ford Hallam for 3 days, the engraving was done. An earth shattering dragon. The embodiment of hitting-stuff-with-a-hammer, an Uragaan! (I know videogames are evil but...I had to) the oak handle was fitted to the straight square eye, using the traditional Kigorishi fitting technique(making the big small, putting it into the small and making it big again) Oh and.that rusted banana thing, is the first hammer I'd been using so far Did I forget anything to mention? I dunno but this hammer makes me feel like I just stepped up a notch! I tried... Now onto the next!
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