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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. @Pieter-Paul Derksthanks, I have to go with a slanted/downwards curved handle, since my anvil is for oshiri /sitting+kneeling style forging and using a straight handled hammer, feels weird. I can't really describe it any other way, it simply feels "strange" and a lot less effective. im mainly looking for more info on "allround-basic" forging hammers, so nothing fancy yet, like riffle hammers or saw straightening or pattern hammers, just a good ol 90% usage flat faced wackysmacky. I also went and weighted some hammers in my hands and moved them around and to me it seemed like double sided hammers, felt much heavier on the uptake and weaker on the downstroke. I imagined that the extra weight above the hammer eye added unnecessary weight above your hand or influenced the center of gravity in some negative way. but Im almost certain that, that^, is wrong and its just my imagination....? more progress, cleaned up the eye and checked the weld with ferric chloride. I think, I can move on to making the handle and then harden and temper the hammer. btw thats a piece of rail track ;P
  2. I kind of, do/don't/maybe?! but now that I have gotten into forging them im beginning to turn on my study brain and I'm looking for more information. Alrrright, so we all know how Japanese hammers work so dang well, except I don't really...I have a "vague" understanding from experience. the tapered front heavy hammer delivers a stronger more concentric blow because of its mass distribution leading it to naturally exert more power on the fall, right? and what about the shape? how does it influence the work to use a round, square, octagonal hammer? when they're flat or round faced? and what about the back? I talked to the friendly neighborhood Slav and his hammers are in comparison to the ones seen by Japanese smiths about twice as tall on the back, he mentioned that it acts as a counter balance? or as a stabilizer helping against the hammer moving laterally upon rebound thus creating more consistency(in regards to forging bevel I believe?) The Japanese cant be beat and every detail is important and to be followed exactly buuuut Ilya is an amazing smith who puts a lot of work and thought into what he does. I think I need more information on Hammers, weights, shape, distribution of mass and their correlative effects during forging. you got some books to hook me up or some simple knowledge to make everything click into place? also, made this, with a holdless welded on face. so, im trying...
  3. its probably a matter of comparison. I mean, the gopro shot worse video than my cheap phone. it did perform better in the sense that, the frame rate it recorded at didnt switch around with every new video or that the focus didnt change with every little movement(and usually stopped on everything being blurry) but the quality of the video was bad, especially in lower light conditions, for instance, at night in my room with the light on, to the gopro, everything looked like im living in a dark cave. and turning up the iso did nothin gother than add a bunch of weird flummering. well, I have since, sold my 5/8 of my soul and bought a sony zv1, I saw it for 570$ instead of 700$ good stuff? probably a good investment, also, for product photography?
  4. Cuddly fish bone cast necklace ornament. Made w aluminium bronze and silver. Even the tiny bit of silver I added, lightened the color quite a bit but a noteworthy thing was that this stuff during drilling work hardened to the point, where a cobalt drill bit did nothing!!! Almost like I was trying to drill hardened steel.
  5. Alright got over the first hurdle. Now I have the basic understanding of how this "liquid metal stuff" works(in a charcoal forge) I didn't know that the liquid really doesn't readily want to stick to other gunk like, charcoal or rusty steel rod and that I got a good few seconds to cast it, so no panic. This was mostly copper with a little tiny bit of aluminum.
  6. Yep that is right. Although my reference saves, say its "shirabiki" But I think in this case "hi" and "bi" might've been used interchangeably from region to region.
  7. I was thinking of selling both together for 70-90€ haha But these are not meant to be kiridashi, the name escapes me rn but they are usually the brother tool to the kiridashi. I already stored up on shiro/aogami number 2, pure iron and butteriron. Wrought iron sadly eludes me...
  8. Hello! Looking for feedback. I'm thinking of maybe selling these left & right hand, traditional Japanese style marking knives. But I tend to underappreciated and undervalue my work(maybe?) These were made by hand without electrical tools. Soft steel and hardsteel(100crv6) Total time, maybe, 4-6 hours I'd price them around 70-90€ But Are these even worth trying to sell?
  9. hmm from what I've been reading it seems for what im looking for with the kiridashi I'd have to use silver, a lot of silver and maybe the opposite of shibuichi like 80%silver 20%copper... I've seen some tungsten copper rods, and that color is kinda in the right direction, maybe if it was silver instead it would be spot on..
  10. @Francis Gastelluthe Kiridashi body is made of butter iron not sure if that changes things with a niage solution but yea, im not interested in patinas right now because I want to keep it more simple, the less special processes I have to apply to get the results I want, the better. I will share my smelting blobs with you all when I get back to the forge, for now...still fixing things around the house.... @DanMI don't know much about mokumegane, since the internet is flooded with the "western" imitation processes and those don't seem very traditional the link you send me tho has some interesting information but again even the process that Norio Tamagawa uses, still seems questionable to me. Is he a blacksmith? Has he explored the method of how such a box could've/would've been made in the 17th century? that being said, I like that process a lot more than the one with the nuts and bolts... its simpler and allows for quicker work and manipulation of the billet
  11. Hello fellow humans! Im getting more and more into engraving and im going to start making some ingots and alloys, soon-ish. Im looking for something different, like weird..."stuff," going on in the soft metal/s having two metals swirl into each other or adding minerals, chemicals(?) to affect certain metals color during smelting? I literally have no idea yet how to even look these things up, all im finding is "tinted" or "patina" and that ain't it. I know about mokumegane but it seems like I need specific set ups and my forge is kinda on the handwork-traditional side, so I've filed it under "maybe for later in life?" also would like to hear what "nonsense" you've been sprinkling into your crucibles, I can definitely see myself adding strange things, like, crushed up amber pebbles and when I stone the metal and polish it I get shiny orange spots of amber gems.(nvm, amber melts at 300C ) PS: currently im working on/planning to inlay and engrave a budding magnolia flower on a kiridashi. I would go with copper, since as far as I know that seems the closest to "pink" but I would really like to have it be a very light/white-ish pink, I would try adding copper to other metals that cast on the "white" side, like aluminium and silver(probably not silver tho, since that hurts to "experiment" with)
  12. That is true but wastly beyond my budget. 400€ are an arm and a leg for me
  13. this is a rant read at own risk. I bought the GoPro hero 9 and after a full day of playing around with it watching and trying out tons of different tutorials and settings, throwing the videos through editors, I can say one thing: "THIS costs 400$??!" it sucks! the battery runs hot withing minutes of recording and as soon as you're not recording under the bright sun on a clear beach, the footage is all black and even if youre shooting with a lot of lighting it somehow washes all the colors out and makes it look faded. THIS costs 400$?! "my disappointment is immeasurable and my day has been ruined" I'd conclude that GoPros are NOT suitable for blacksmiths(like me at least) bummer, I liked it. now I have to actually burn my brain to figure out what kinda cam would work. don't buy it, unless you forge in a lighthouse.
  14. yeh I think I'll buy it and try it around the forge. (14 days return warranty ^^) I guess if the battery is overheating, not just dunking in the quench tank but just switching it out could work as well. might be worrying about some non-issue stuff here.
  15. Yo, so I've been looking into getting a camera, for recording forging and stuff. and there are a few points about the GoPro 9 that I like but I read that GoPros arnt really meant for sitting, indoors, stationary and have overheating issues, which trigger automatic shut downs. apparently they are self cooling via, people using them in outdoor sporty type situations? does anyone have a GoPro and could clear some of this up for me? alternatively, I could dunk it in the quench bucket now and then, right? they are waterproof after all.
  16. @C Craftcuttings files is pretty easy, especially if you're using a sharp chisel, you slide it back till you feel it bump against the raised metal deformation caused by cutting the previous tooth and then that's where the next'll go. Now w a proper rounded edge tho, yea def been noticing it is harder. @Alan Longmire I think I finally got a good picture...micro camera is so terrible.. Tho this is not the best I could've done in terms of cutting/punching. The round edge seems to be no problem but I think the sharpness of the tooth, may be impacted more by the cutting angle and the bevel geometry
  17. the tooth does feel pretty sharp but I'll clean the test piece and "actually" file it flat and bring out my phones micro camera and get some nice shots, right up close of whats going on -tomorrow
  18. @Alan Longmire Nah I think they do mean "rounded edge" I tried it and it actually works great! And the edge on this chisel is dead blunt, really it's more a punch than a chisel at this point and still raised a good tooth. I think it might be important to make it well rounded or "elliptically" round. I definitely would've never thought of that! Take a look, you can see that the edge is very blunt VID_20210601_223337.mp4
  19. there we go! yea the previous link didn't do nothing...or im too technologically challenged. hm hm intercroissant "the edge is rounded off, so to indent rather than to cut" and it seems I have to find a way to hold the diamond shaped faces horizontally flat..how the... I need to make a custom form for it...geez this is turning out to be harder than I thought. @Alan Longmirethanks a bunch I'll try doing...something. This is quickly turning from a small side project into a new acquisition of a craft. (still I will buy the book! seems useful to have lying around)
  20. that sounds like a cool book from the reviews I read...tho I have no idea what im to do with that link. Download? what? where? all I see are options to buy a physical copy of the book(which honestly I am considering!) 16euro on amazon. (but I want it NOW!!! )
  21. I couldn't find any reference for the chisels angles so imma go experimental. Although it already proved to be working much better. Now I just need to figure out, technique
  22. thats is a good point, I had not thought about file re-straightening, currently im still having a bit of a problem cutting the teeth into a feather file, the diamond crossection makes it awkward/hard to cut an even tooth across the whole face, now I hope that was just the fault of my chisel, so I made the new one but it might simply be because I dont have a way to hold the diamond shape in a way that would allow the force of the chisel cutting be appropriately delivered across the entire face. for now I'll check out Alans links and see if I can find some detail on the chisels bevel angles, then I sharpen the chisel and try it again. @steven smith yeh pictures are always nice to have! I usually just use my phone to upload pictures here, this websites mobile version is pretty good with letting you upload directly from your phones photo bank.
  23. Nice, I check it all out after my brain cools down. Made this, amongst other things I think really need to drink more while forging...
  24. That be great! Ye my chisel is just a random hardware scrapper, just for testing. Seems higher angle=finer cut and lower angles=rougher cut I made 4 cut rows at different angles, the teeths geometry seems the same, just the distance and size is affected
  25. Hello there! Got into file making seems simple enough so far. Tho, I'm wondering about the chisel geometry, so far I've been going with "hand engraving chisel" bevel angles. I remember years ago there was an article somewhere which may have had the details about the file cutting chisels but... I thought it wasn't important at the time "haha, file making? When will I ever!" ...now So anyone got some breadcrumbs of knowledge?
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