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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. Still beautiful. Gotta go there at least before I hit 70!
  2. as someone who started out as a complete noob, I learned that more is less, when it comes to fuel. (at least thats how it seems for me when using charcoal) how do I describe this... imagine the steel is a piece of fish and the charcoal is your..fire. if you burn only a little amount it will take longer to cook the fish and you have to keep adding more coals to it, so it burns longer yes but is less effective and ultimately uses up more time and money while doing much less work. having "the right amount" of fuel in relation to the size of the pieces you're working with is something that will greatly benefit you. I dont know how much info there is on this^ maybe its too basic... more is less, dont be too shy with trying to save fuel/money. rule of thumb I could say...(w charcoal) you want your fuel stacked about 2-3 times the size of the stock you're putting in. maybe.
  3. ....these photos make me want to use heavy curse language. did you snap these? absolutely great sights and shots! really makes my day
  4. yeh ok, maybe it wont be that hot for long enough. but I was thinking of giving it 2 normalizations...I kinda goofed and burned the steel off(or it had a defect) hence why the file body is so short and broken-up looking. so normal clay for heat circling and then charcoal clay for hardening. when finished it'll be one of those stick handled files. seen some saw sharpeners squeeze small files into a folded stick of soft metal.
  5. Not sure if I want to add more carbon to it tho, I think this steel already has atleast 0.80-1% carbon.
  6. So I'm worried I'll break it after cutting the teeth and then quenching it... The stats: It's a file for japanese saws. Water quenching steel. I got a charcoal forge and will use water for quenching. The plan: Wrap it in clay to keep it clean and sharp and maybe that will help keep it from cracking/splitting? Any other suggestions are appreciated
  7. Update Yea I'm still making that welded up anvil block, the welded on sides have large tapers that I filled in with lots of weld that pretty much penetrated through it. Also, got tons of welding practice. Getting goodder
  8. dont worry guys, im not that green anymore I spoke of "glove" singular, I do not wear a glove on my hammer hand and when im doing forge welding/splattery stuff, I often brush the forge area and pillow(japanese style sitting/kneeling) and the collar of the glove with water, that way whatever tries to get in there, immediately gets doused. tho mostly had stuff find its way into my hammer hand if it did splatter upwards to the hands... I tried welders type leather gloves but those were, stiff and bulky which didn't feel good when operating the tongs. cotton has worked flawlessly for me, with exception to durability...
  9. My cotton glove always tears up at thumb and index finger. Now the new pack I bought is even thinner fabric than the last... Any nifty ideas to reinforce the fabric? (Other than sewing on leather something quicker maybe?)
  10. Alright reworked, improved How is this? All clear to understand? @Aiden CC sup, is this how you meant it?
  11. @Aiden CC Top right corner is the remaining 9-10mm from the overall 60cm length. The dotted lines are pieces that will be added later. The 9-10mm are the fuigo lid. This is the 2D view of just the finished front piece after all the sawing is done, the lines above/below the piston hole are for a front board that gets attached. But you make a lot of good points on how I can make this more clear and improve the instructional parts. I could make a fuigo with half these measurements nowadays but the point is so anyone can do it without consulting a mind reader!good to have a fresh eye on this, thanks!
  12. Currently upgrading my japanese forge with a new fuigo(box bellow) This time I'm planning to make plans so maybe someone someday here can build themselves a proper one of these. So is this coherent? Can you guys tell what's going on and feel like it's easy to follow? Did I forget something? I'll color code the measurements later on.
  13. @Aiden CC If you (and anyone else) want to get into some nice soft-fast working whetstones these here are my favorites, they're big, they're thick and one sided so you can use them on their side which makes them easier to keep flat and honestly you probably wont need the entire width of the face sides anyway. these are baller and comparatively cheap(sometimes...prices fluctuate frequently) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rockingham-SUPERSHARP-Whetstone-Sharpening-Non-Slip/dp/B07BKFCGFD ps: I'd avoid double sided stones, they seem like a good idea but two sides with different composition being fired at the same temp for same duration usually means one side was made to the correct specification and the other side can be...yeerr eeerrr durr hurr...
  14. If you really want to find out the old ways, then you will have to apply the old techniques and old knowledge(or as close to it as you can get nowadays) its very different making a tool when you know you can grind it with a machine, compared to making it and knowing that you cant because, there are no machines. "forge thick grind thin" most certainly didnt exist back then. I have grinding machines but for pieces that I sell I dont use electric tools that means the degree of error im allowed is much tighter and I have to make every step in consideration of what the next process will be. try forging and filing for your shaping and whetstones for your grinding and finishing work, I find that it can not be compared to grinding with electric powertools, you "feel" everything much more, every success and very error. and it teaches you much more than an electric tool. I also would avoid sandpaper for this, as it is "very sterile" in terms of its performance and much more expensive than a whetstone not to mention in my opinion not as fast cutting, also there are no nuances in its performance other than the degradation of its cutting abilities, 1 whetstone can cut many different ways depending on how you use it. if youre interested heres what to look out for: Synthetics: SOFT STONES! are the best, they cut the fastes! look for reviews of people complaining the stone is too soft. and stay away from stones that are congratulated for their hardness. hard stones dont release their cutting particles as fast so a 200grit can based on its hardness performs like a 2000grit stone. if you find soft stones of decent price and size buy them in bulk! what to buy: Grind stones: 100-300grit(for rough material removal, nothing else. they will wear out at twice the rate your other stones will) Shaping stones: 400-800grit (for making stuff flat and even to prepare for finishing and sharpening) pre finishing stones: 1000-3000gritt (for narrowing things down and checking if you messed up in the last step ;P ) finishing stones: 4000-8000-10k-12k-15k-2... (for sharpening and making stuff slick) special note: Polishing stones: used for making a mirror finish, now in these stones we do want HIGH HARDNESS, because we want the stones to almost burnish the steel more than cut it. 10k+ (look for stones advertised as gems. ruby. emerald. agate.) diamond stones: no. maybe for flattening whetstones but I wouldnt recommend using them on work pieces you care about. natural stones:......yes but these are a class of their own, they really shine when used on tools made of steels of different hardnesses. it is very hard to find good natural stones as they're either too soft or much too hard. there not many people/places selling stones for "old world" techniques and those who do, dont do so cheaply. Japanese sword polishing sites are to my knowledge the only places where you can still find and buy natural whetstones for all the processes, they call them "sword grade stones" theyre beautiful and big and I have none of them! so I'll end my contribution on natural stones here. sorry for going on a tangent... but if you want to know more in detail, im always happy to convert people to traditional crafts hehe.
  15. might I ask what was wrong with using a belt strapped ram? all I could see was that it looked kinda loose? yea just found this here you can see how tight the straps are
  16. since I already had this half stump sitting there, I went and chiseled out a mortice for the anvil. Temporarily. If I find a nice endgrain-up-stump I like, I'll switch it out and see if that makes a noticeable difference
  17. I had heard the stump is just to deaden the anvils ring or to give it height, I thought rebound ends where the anvil meets the base so I was going to mortice it in there and maybe give it a felt/rubber bottom to sit silently on. hrmm.. but if i ring it with steel even a small piece of endgrain up shouldn't split from wedging, maybe? im also still planing to harden it, im currently upgrading my whole forge, building a better fuigo bellows(sword forging grade)for that. plus it seems handy to have 2 bellows. I'll mortice it into the stump for now and forge on it as is, while building the second fuigo, after that I think I'll try to look for a nice stump and try my hand at a heat shrink fitted ring(whatever thats called again. heat steel up, put it round, shrink it with water cooling)
  18. I thought of morticing the block into this stump half and then wedging it from the side. Is there a reason I should use a stump with endgrain facing up? I could but then my wedge construction might split it?
  19. @Brian Myersthats Soo helpful thanks for digging it up! Here some processand an idea on how to handle this thing. I did a bit of forging on it loosely sitting around, I feel gobsmacked at how much better it is than the scrap stuff I'd been using
  20. yea thats why im thinking of trying to harden the entire anvil. I could easily harden just one face but then I can't do the switcharoonie well I can but... im thinking of making like a long handled hook beam and welding temporary handles to the block, then hook it in, pull it out, put it back turn it around etc dig a hole fill it with water dump the makeshift brick forge walls into it, to heat it up and go for the quench? im sure this will make me look like a cartoon but on paper it seems to work. but I will have to do it somewhere...ehem faaar away from prying eyes! not sure how high that fire needs to be. im thinking juuust shy of a smelting oven haha.
  21. Aight, it having only 0.42 carbon I didn't think cracking would be a risk id have to be afraid of, I hardened a 0.40-0.50% steel file before in water and it was so tough I literally bashed it with a hammer into a banana and it didn't crack not usable hardness for an edge tho so to the pile it went. Anyway, I'll see what I can rig up with hot water quench container. Worst, case I'll dig a hole. What I'm most worried about is that it's so big that I might not be able to cool it fast enough to get it completely hard, hence my thinking of using the flowing river I'm not sure which side I would like to use as the forging face so a single sided hardening... If I forge on the 100mm face I get the long section of 130 down returning more energy but that 130mm face looks so attractive as a forging surface...
  22. Yep corrected the typo. Hm the stuff I read makes it seem like a super alloy. But yea 0.42% C... I was thinking of welding up a lifting bar and setting up a fire place next to the river and chucking it in there. But how about welding on the hardened rail track foot? If we're talking about rebound, the hard rail foot has much more than the massive soft chunk. Is that atleast worth a try? Like, if it doesn't do anything better could I still turn the piece over or does the welded face still steal energy?
  23. Alright we got some development I have not been deaf to what you guys been saying and went around, doing some digging aaand was very lucky to cheaply find a block of steel pretty much spot on for my liking(1cm give and take) 195x100x130mm Unhardened 42CrMo4(1.7225) a tool steel(?) with about 0.42 carbon Now I'm thinking... Cut and weld the hardened track foot on or somehow, with sheer force of stupid, harden the whole block!? Anyone know more about this steel? So far what I'm reading makes it sound like the perfect anvil steel, if I can get it hard
  24. pretty nice! I really like how thin the core steel is, thats something I had trouble with when I made my first kobuse carving knives. have you tried experimenting with finger stones yet? those are also pretty fun as they allow you to work the steels differentionally, for this blade tho youd probably have to use the old chopstick method and a sliver of a piece of stone the size of 3 rice grains and an engravers visor and a hand rest and a way to hold it in place and...but its fun!
  25. the hardened plate is about 10mm thick. another thing I just wondered about if I have a soft steel block, would that still be better as is than with an actually hardened face welded on? the hardened face should add something other than being a hammer bounce pad, right? could I weld a hardened face to a steel chunk and if it robs the energy, just turn it upside down and forge on the other side or does the welded face still steal kinetic energy returns while being at the bottom?(that way I could just test)
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