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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. yes thats exactly what I was afraid of, is there any way to fix this? just wondering hypothetical options here. how about clamping it down, with the fury of zeus and welding it? or if the two surfaces were perfectly hand stoned flat? putting annealed soft metal sheet between it, to fill in the spaces, like copper or alu?
  2. So I just did the math of how much I need to do material wise, in order to end up with a solid-ish chunk of steel around the "hardened track foot with stem" And it's no longer "a fun weekend project" I'm at 68-70 pieces I'd need to weld up, that's just stupid, I don't need THAT level of tig welding practice So I'll try to find a chunk of steel then cut the hardened foot off from the stem and weld that on as a faceplate. How's that sound? How close to "anvil" does that get me?
  3. dont forged to cut a mortice first or you might end up splitting the log or not driving the stake down deep enough for it to hold and hardening/tempering might be possible if your forge can handle it, since a lot of rail track has enough carbon in it but as it is they're only slightly harder than mild steel. Use one of the cut off pieces and harden it to test, if your gas forge cant handle the process it should be possible with a simple brick campfire set up and A LOT charcoal(pretty much needs to be buried) hardening should be possible at bright red-orange.
  4. alright this is happening im making this thing into an anvil or into a "block with hardened face" now I need some ideas on how to best do this. Idea 1: cut some flatbar and clamp+weld it to the stem of the anvil then cutting it off and repeating to follow the form the problem I see ehre would be that I can only weld one side and the ends as I stack them outwards and also I could only weld the final side panels from the outside and the ends. Idea 2: cut the flat bar and lay and clamp it all against the stem of the track, then weld the ends, take it away from the stem and weld it all around into a solid-ish chunk that fits snugly-ish into the form of the track then weld the side panels from inside and outside and slide the flatbar chunks into the recess then clap it down against the underside of the face and weld it against the bottom. Idea 3: weld all 4 side panels on somehow get a whole buncha lead pour it in and then weld up the bottom? not sure tho if that might rob even more kinetic energy than having flatbar welded on but it def make it more solid since theres less spaces left? other Ideas: fill in the spaces left from flatbar welding with sand? fill it in with lead? take annealed copper sheet and clamp it under the flatbar infills so it is more solidly "connected" -does that make sense? just weld on the 4 sides and then fit it into a stump(that cant be better than filling it in right?) I got a tig and a broken DDR stick welder that sometimes works and other times tries to scare me for fun. and yes my forge can handle forging an anvil but...realistically speaking I dont think I got what it takes yet to forge weld such a massive thing, I could rig a lifting chain but...this is supposed to be a fun weekend-ish project! any ideas?(other than "just buy nice things!" lol)
  5. That looks nice! Tho I'd have to see next month if I still got enough to buy it without starving XD Btw, progress: I got it hardened and greatly lowered the temper of the edges to reduce chances of chipping It's still pretty hard, the files skates. Not sure should I draw the temper more? Most anvils seem to have a plate of much lower carbon than this, which I read had about o.70-0.90%
  6. yeh, finally got around to finishing the video. traditional build, nothing fancy needed. if you really want to make one of these and get them working like they do for Japanese smiths, here you go. also more details and important explanations in the video description, short and snappy. let no blacksmith say: "theres no information about Sen" been there... hated it, now here we are, there it is! my dream is to one day be able to buy Sen from the hardware store like files. have a good night people!
  7. Guys im not saying you're wrong, I wholeheartedly believe you what I mean by "learning experience" is: "im a masochist!" err...what I mean is, I like failure because it really teaches you completely about the thing you're trying to achieve and when you finally succeed, you will have almost complete comprehension of it all, how you got there, what it took or how little you can get away with. its like, sure I can have someone else read me a story but I'd rather read it myself and at worst, I got a heavy block of steel and some tig welding practice, also I never hardened something that big so that's also something im looking forward to trying out
  8. Machine shops huh? That's might be worth a shot but well... I already started! Now I have to finish it. Even if it's no improvement over my current main anvil. At least it's a learning experience right? XD Anyway, I can just use it as a shop anvil, for straightening stuff or such.. Here's were I'm at unsure how to fill it up.. Might weld flatbar from the inside out?
  9. Love to but no idea where to look. I tried a couple of german websites and most only let you order if you're a company. What I would love to have is a hardened plate and weld it to a steel chunk but again...it seems not available for a little green hob like me. So Im limited to scrap. Sorry...for giving you guys second hand frustration...
  10. Seen stuff like that. But for more like 500-750€ Yea my limit is about 100€ or 200€ if it's really amazing! But then I'd have break into my savings
  11. Anvils are painfully expensive, not to mention either not available or too big for my space and liking. So my best option is to make it myself and try to make it as solid as possible
  12. The current anvil thingy I build is too big for my taste and I don't really need a hardy hole, I'm mostly doing traditional japanese forging, so a square block is all I really need. So I'm thinking of downgrading in size and upgrading in weight. smaller anvil gets hot faster. Less space to muck around, more focus? What I'm planning is to take a railroad track piece(oh god not this again. Yeayea I know, lol) So and then use the foot as the forging face, harden, temper it and weld it up into a square block by filling it in with steel cut offs. And then as a final step before welding the bottom or the last side piece, fill any remaining spaces with fine quartz sand? Now a big concern is, that I don't want the piece to ring. How's that sound? Any tips/ideas? Sand good? Or should I go for...resin? Cement? Leave it out?
  13. Aaaah dang it XD And here I thought I had it but I trust you. I have no idea what's in the low carbon steel... But I'm telling you the cracks seemed to disappear, some definitely did vanish, as soon as I stopped using borax and just gave it a brush before forging. This is a pickle. Cuz I'm using that steel alot. And everytime! Everytime I heat it up and leave it overnight and then forge it the next day, it starts to crack. Doesn't matter if I anneal it or even if I don't forge it at all and anneal it. Thahaha this is insane...what am I to do?!
  14. Couple months ago I had some mystery cracks in the soft outer parts of some kobuse knives appear during forging after letting them rest for a night. No one could figure out why or what or where they came from.(no decarb, no overheating, no low heat forging) Until just today that is. I have experimented to seek out where the mystery cracks came from and! It somehow was due to borax. I was doing my regular hard+soft steel lamination practices When I saw the cracks appear! I tried to apply borax and weld them up, that only made everything worse! Then I experimented w applying borax and brushing it off before hammering and the cracks seemed to get forged down and go away. Then lastly I tried without any fluxing at all, simply kept giving it a brush beforehand, which gave me the best result and I was almost able to forge out all the cracks. My theory: Due to an overabundance of borax, it created a thick layer that even during forging would not get removed by hammer blows, thus over multiple heats continuously corrode the soft other layer steel, but not the inner core! Then once I went to hammer on it, the surface steel was so eaten by the acid that it just cookie crumbed worse and worse with every hammer blow. Thus I have concluded. Now tell me if there's any way I could be correct or...if I need to keep looking for the answer...
  15. Aight, I'll tell that to the customer "es ist eine traditionelle japanische "Wurstbrötchen verschweißung" XD And once again I feel like an old man but I guess it's true kids these day don't know how to appreciate.... hahaha
  16. First of all, I'm technically not a "blade"smith but yuh, here we are... 99% handmade and using old school japanese forging techs. No modern/electrical equipment was used. Blackthorn handle was turned on a treadle lathe, Soft steel laminated to hardsteel core, Kobuse build or non-cut-through-san-mai if that's more digestible, lol Green tea etched and hardsteel polished with finger stones. Guard fitted with a tiny copper triangle insert, for fun;P Convex tapered forged ferrule with straight taper filed on inside. Was a pain! I had to remake everything multiple times. Cuz of "failure" or "hm that don't look right..." 3 handles 4 guards 9 blades 2 washers 4 ferrules
  17. aight I'll leave it as is, true the scales will prob wear away as time goes on anyway yeh, sure, I mean im a beginner level engraver but "practice" right?
  18. So, initially I thought bout stoning the forge scale off the engraving and making the lines stand out but then it looked kinda nice w the scale on Soo...now I can't make up my mind. Help? Words?
  19. Yea I figured that it was maybe a lack of impurities. But that's no concern, I got this stuff for the small carbon percentage and it's softness Thanks for the confirmation. Ps: @Alan Longmire the butter iron, it really is almost like copper, it files like a dream! I instantly want more!
  20. I just got some pure iron and Butteriron and after etching them w ferric, the results were. "This does not etch like wrought iron!" The Butteriron didn't show much of a pattern just got grey. The pure iron on the other hand, also showed no pattern popping up but for some reason the ferricchloride dried on top of it as a white crust?? Can someone clear up stuff for me? Did I not etch them long enough or is that how it be? (Yes, I do trust the seller has delivered me the right goods)
  21. wow that sounds amazing! I thought the name was mostly just for show. I already ordered some from angele here in germany(they got some in stock not sure how much or how long) how'd you think it do for woodworking chisels? from the sound of it now im afraid the neck might bend like a spoon. although im looking to mostly try making japanese plane blades, kiridashi, other kogatana from it. for a laminated kitchen knife it sounds like the tang would def like to bend...maybe even upwards. I really didnt think that it was THAT soft!
  22. yea the handle, a bit upside down, lol. other than that, critique: personally I find the look of the faces in relation to the bevel line is important, yours seems a bit...wonky. perhaps you didnt forge the faces flat and straight enough, perhaps you didnt forge the bevel in or its a result of the grinding? but considering this is your first forged knife, its def better than mine. I do like the profile you got going on, looks like it be fun to chop kindling with
  23. I cant find a definitive translation the website translates it into "forging iron" although the direct translation would be "butter iron" im kinda confused it says "0.03% carbon which is less carbon than Pure Iron" but then it lists "pure iron 0.02% carbon content" wrought iron I read has 0.05% carbon so.. what is this stuff?!
  24. true, im too gentle, I just hate seeing the sparks fizzing out of the steel..."NOOO my carbon!!!"
  25. yeh, im good at high to low carbon welding low to low carbon on the other hand.....more practice needed. cast iron powder sounds great! I'll def try to see if I can find any.
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