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J.Leon_Szesny

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Everything posted by J.Leon_Szesny

  1. So you think I'd be fine with the 1.30-1.60 chrome in the steel when welding to low carbon or iron? the atmosphere shouldn't be a problem, charcoal keeps my forge lean and green. That steel might...might not be above the 1.5% chrome threshold (tho the seller does list it as steel for damascus making. mhmmh) in terms of flux I got borax + pure iron powder Borax + steel filings/shavings borax. and fine ground quarz silica chinchilla bath sand ;P which would you recommend?
  2. Yo! I've been looking at the composition of steel and was wondering when does chrome % start to become a problem for forge welding? I know that 10-13 % makes stainless steel and that's def "too much" but at how low a percentage does it first start to become less weldable or a noticeable variable? PS: I was thinking of maybe getting some "100Cr6" what ever that is in english... Cr: 1.35-1.60 C: 0.95-1.10 Mn: 0.40 Si: 0.15-0.35 P: 0.025 S: 0.025 Ni: 0.4 Mo: 0.10
  3. Interesting, I guess now I got a starting point. No I didn't realize I wrote down the correct equation... I think you overestimated my math skills...so much I've forgotten..or never learned. Volume and weigh. I'll add it to my bedtime homework
  4. Ello I've heard there's a way to math out how much stock you need to make a certain length x thickness x height blade. What kind of equation or mathematical theory would this be? And is it actually useful? Yeaap, I'm super bad at math...
  5. cool video! but the quality...such a shame.. yes that's kinda "cheating" but as long as its not "electrically" powered, I think its ok. although I'd probably also draw a line on "steam powered" not that im saying theres anything wrong with electrical or steam powered tools.
  6. yea this would mainly be an experiment and just for the laughs. but now I know a bit about what to expect. this, does sound like a likely thing to happen. but if I ever get my hands on carbide drill bits and got one too many, ...it has to be done! (but no powertools, thats just cheating!)
  7. nonono, I have a drill press and I can hot punch holes just fine. I just mean, has anyone ever thought about hand drilling hot steel with carbide drill bits? imagine, if it actually works and you could hand drill holes in steel almost as easily as in wood but would it?
  8. so what do you guys think on that? drilling holes into hot, red-orange-hot steel with carbide drill bits, by hand! egg beater drill? brace drill? breast drill? is this even remotely possible or am I just tired and going crazy?
  9. Yeh I had heard something about nickel steels. So there is no magic etching or staining stuff, (other than cold blue) that can bring out a dark coloration in the low carbon steel? I could a sworn some of the stuff I'd seen was etched, but maybe it was a stone polish with accommodating lighting...
  10. I'm trying to go for the Japanese blade/tool finish. Soft steel black Hard steel white There has to be a way to do that without using stones. what about damascus then? That has steel that doesn't turn black and it would be insane if that was a non-hardening steel, that would make for a terrible blade with lots of little soft spots
  11. A bit of a broad question. I want to know more about what different etching agents do to different types of steel(mainly speaking of low and high carbon steel) So ferric chloride turns the hard steel dark and leaves the soft steel alone What I was looking for tho was the opposite. So I don't know jack. and I'm back to square one.
  12. neato! cause I do a lot of forge work with scale finish, I had read that ferric chloride had, hydrochloric acid in it, which I understood as a powered up version of vinegar. gonna buy me a bottle or a powder box! thx
  13. hoi! working on some knives with a forge scale finish section and I want to keep that part on, been thinking of getting some ferric chloride to quickly get the contrasts between the 2 steels to show up. does it dissolve scale? cause I know vinegar do. I got 1 jap stone, thats good but...not enough to really bring out the contrast and they be expensive...like an arm or a leg!
  14. Hooh? you can build them that small? and portable? well well well, what have we here? looks like another future project. "rubs hands together menacingly" >:D btw I got about maybe 3-4kg of steel shavings in total 1-2 kg of high carbon steel 1-2 kg of low carbon steel and maybe another kg from my sen-dai steel shaving tray the problem Im seeing tho, is the bellows. I only got 1 fuigo rn and that one is permanently mounted to my forge....
  15. Yea, I'm definitely way to deep already, I was thinking of just sprinkling it on top of a bar and trying to make it solid. But sure, why don't I just try to make a bloom XD @Alan Longmire Yep side blast charcoal forge, with fuigo bellows, currently rebuilding for the 4th time it to give it even more "umpf" no idea how much it takes to make bloom steel or crucible stuff tho
  16. I once visited a machine shop and got to play with their mill, afterwards being a recyclist I collected the high carbon steel shavings and took em home. The stuff is completely funked up with machinist juice, so I'm wondering what would happen if I tried to just weld it to some low carbon bar, with some borax. Anyone heard or tried anything like that?
  17. Really you recon it's burnt!? I swear that I welded and forged it without sparks flying! But maybe the heat shot up too fast, which caused the steel too be more stressed? When I started refining the blanks the forge was already at forge welding temp. Wrought iron would be a dream to have, l source most of my stuff locally, sadly haven't come across wrought iron yet... But the option on website seems surprisingly affordable! Really I thought it be 3x as much.
  18. I had read that one of the purposes of having mild carbon steel and a paper thin core was to help reduce sharpening time? most of the circular sawblades around here are highly hardenable even the ones with brazed on carbide! and I had some weird welding times with some, so I've been avoiding it...I think it was chrome vanadium and some kinda HSS. yo, that could perhaps be, I was operating my fuigo bellow with my foot on the footrest so, maybe I pumped too much air into it? but I didn't get the steel sparking hot, could it still de-carb? here some pictures of the blades a bit cleaner, maybe the cracks will ring some bells with someone? I think I can still make working knives out of these since the core is untouched buuuut....?
  19. yea maybe it was a bad section in the bar... I'll try to test the remaining steel, maybe I can find something out not sure I understand this, are you talking about making a san-mai billet with nothing but high carbon steel pieces? but that would kinda defeat the purpose of the san-mai lamination technique but no, no sawmills, we do have a local scrapyard with piles of circular saw blades
  20. wait what, thermal cycles after forge welding? I mean, I forge welded it into a solid billet then took it to slightly below welding heat and hot cut it in the middle, both halves I then heated to cherry red and just let them air cool....
  21. here that's the best I can do rn, bad lighting and because I was kinda disshearted...I didn't bother to clean them up with water forging, I just got them to that rough shape and chucked them in the ash for annealing.
  22. true, the carbon steel core seems to be perfectly fine and I also saw no de-lamination at all but that sounds interesting, I hadn't heard of that before. maybe while forging and making knives and cutting the bar down, I just hit a specific part of the bar were something funky was going on. If so, any ideas on how I could test for things like that? cause I did forge it down, chisel it, straightened the slot, chisel it open again and nothing happened to the steel, I was doing that at orange heats and working even down at red heats.
  23. yea I had forged some other san-mai knives from the same bar I even had used the same file steel before. only difference was that I forged one billet and cut it into 2 knives. not "compatible?" in what way? the carbon core seemed fine, the cracks were everywhere except at the spot where the core was. they traveled right around the spine over the faces and then stopped in the middle right at the edges of the welded core as far as I could tell.
  24. So I started my blades with a san-mai billet, regular hardware store low carbon steel, I'd been using for ages, never had a problem. chiseled the bar and put a file steel core into it, that I had put through some tests beforehand, I forge welded it all into one nice solid piece, then cut it in the middle and forged in the tips of the two small knives and closed shop for the day. now at this point the steel was all good, clean, solid, no cracks! today I went to refine the knife blanks and after a few blows I notice that the low carbon steel has micro cracks all over, like a ton! I was forging at a middle orange heat. after that it was time to experiment, I tried to go for different heats and even hot rasped all the cracks off but they came back. now the only thing I could think of is, voodoo, that or maybe something happened to the cold steel when I put it into the forge for the first time? I had the forge already blasting hot for some warm up forge welding. so could it be that somehow the low carbon steel was destroyed because it shot up in heat too fast? (im using charcoal btw)
  25. hm I would just weld on some low carbon steel to the damascus billet or to the spot where the engraving will end up but that probably will do some weird stuff to your damascus patterns appearance? what type of engraving tools are you using btw? pneumatic push gravers? rotary bits? traditional, hammer and hand? if you're going traditional, im not sure differential hardening will go well, I've tried to engrave some hc steel that I annealed before and tho it was soft to file, it still was too much for my dainty gravers. It was doable but terrible!
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