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Adam Reggie

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About Adam Reggie

  • Birthday February 13

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  • Location
    Northeastern Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Fishing, Shooting, Family, Hobby Farming, Beekeeping, Backyard chickens, 40k and I'm sure a bunch of other things I forgot.
  1. I did attempt to solder from the underside of the guard, I was dissatisfied with my results, mostly because I couldn't get it to flow. I suspect I didn't have enough heat on that attempt. The wet cloth sounds like a good idea! The cotton swabs I used were dry and just mostly pushed the solder around. I do want to stick with silver bearing solder, I like the end result, so I may as well learn to get good at it. Thank you for the tips. I do still wonder if you can use a solder sucker to clean it up. If i have one lying around I will need to try that out on
  2. Good morning everyone, I just soldered my first guard in place and while I am happy with how it turned out in the end, the clean up took some serious time. This was not unexpected, but I am looking to see if there are some specific tips out there to make clean up a bit easier. I used Stay-Brite solder from the ricasso side of the guard. Cut and flattened a few pieces and laid them along the joint to be soldered. I was left with a fillet of solder to clean up and couldn't effectively move it out of the way when hot with cotton swab or other tool. Is there
  3. Good deal Alan, again thank you for the additional information, I will try as you suggest for the next one.
  4. So it isn't my tester (a pity really), but the one at work in our tool and die shop. The test was done on a smooth and flat surface of the blade, which I assumed was required but didn't actually know that for sure or from experience. I imagine our T&D lead would have said something if we were doing it wrong. I also wasn't aware that warm oil was a faster quench! Obviously I was thinking the reverse of that. My next 5160 knife I make I will warm the oil up a bit more, hold at 1525 for a few minutes and raise the temp to 1550° hold for maybe a minute and see where I land on t
  5. I think the temper was reasonably accurate, I used a toaster oven, but had a thermocouple in there as well to verify the thermostat setting. The thermocouple was peaking around 375 +/- a bit. I am not sure if that thermocouple is accurate or not however, because the thermostat was set at 400 to get there. Good to know about 5160H, I wasn't aware of that. I might try to drop the temper some, and while this knife is okay and I will try and complete it without messing it up, I think I may move to some 1084 soon and try some knives with that. I am not sure if thinking an
  6. HI, I am hoping some people who have a bit more experience with 5160 can give me some advice on how to squeeze out a point or two more of hardness from my process. So far I have mostly used 5160 and like it well enough. I heat to 1525° F and quench in warmed vegetable oil (homemade electronically controlled oven). I then do two cycles of tempering at 375°F. I am not getting any noticeable decarb or warping that I am concerned about. I was hoping to be around 58-59 Rc but I brought the knife to work and it tested at 56.5 Rc. Not bad, but I was hoping for a couple poi
  7. First post here, so far this forum seems great, everyone seems genuinely kind to each other! Started blacksmithing about a year and a half ago and started making knives last December. I've only made 3 so far on my journey, so best I can post is #1 and #3:
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